R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-26-2004, 07:12 AM   #6331
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

i was told that there is not advantage between damper tubes and fricton plates, so i was wondering which one is easier to tune and which one is easier to maintain.

is there any major differences between the major brands of 1/12's or are they all pretty much the same. i will be racing on a fast technical track, not an oval track
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 07:16 AM   #6332
Tech Addict
 
acyrier's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indiana
Posts: 569
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to acyrier
Flat Servo Mounting

When mouting a servo flat on a 12th scale, what mounts are you using? And if your not using mounts, (hense using servo tape) when hitting a wall, is anybody expierencing the servo getting "tweaked" as a result of the hit?
__________________
The products and places I support.
www.michianarc.com www.facebook.com/michianarc - www.russellrc.com
www.teamtekin.com - www.teamcrc.com - www.teamassociated.com
www.fantomracing.com - www.discountrcstore.com
acyrier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 07:24 AM   #6333
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default Re: Flat Servo Mounting

Quote:
Originally posted by acyrier
When mouting a servo flat on a 12th scale, what mounts are you using? And if your not using mounts, (hense using servo tape) when hitting a wall, is anybody expierencing the servo getting "tweaked" as a result of the hit?
acyrier,

I'm using the airtronics 94145 servo which has mounting ears for either mounting flat to chassis or regular angled servo mounts.
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 07:25 AM   #6334
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
You also need to make sure that the tierods are almost flat if you are looking at the car from the front. This will help to eliminate bumb steer. That could be your problem.
Adam,

I worked on that yesterday and will post pics shortly so you can see it. Thanks again.
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 07:28 AM   #6335
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default pics

I'll try to post the pics later today...


picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 08:06 AM   #6336
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default pics

here ar a couple of pics

http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/IMG_1325.JPG


http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/IMG_1326.JPG


let me know what you guys think..
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 08:43 AM   #6337
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: pics

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
here ar a couple of pics

http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/IMG_1325.JPG


http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/IMG_1326.JPG


let me know what you guys think..
Is that foam bumper touching, or even pressing on the front suspension? That might give some strange results.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 09:30 AM   #6338
Tech Apprentice
 
Ted B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 95
Send a message via Yahoo to Ted B.
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
i was told that there is not advantage between damper tubes and fricton plates, so i was wondering which one is easier to tune and which one is easier to maintain.

is there any major differences between the major brands of 1/12's or are they all pretty much the same. i will be racing on a fast technical track, not an oval track
I have been experimeting with a Yokomo dampner disk car and an IRS car with tubes. I endend up using the IRS chassis the the Yokomo cross brace and upper/lower pod plates and dampner disks. Each Yokomo piece is twice as light as the IRS components. I like the dampner disks better because it centralizes all of the dampening movement to one place, where as the tubes take the movement across the chassis. Also, the tubes could act differently giving you a an inconsistant feel from left to right.

Overall, the car is much better than the tube car and it improved laps about .4 to .5 seconds per laps, which was bout what 19t touric car was turing, I was .2 slower than the fastest 19t lap of the day.

hope this helps.

here is pic of CEFX body for anyone who wants to see it. It turns very well, but I am not completley sold on it yet. (about the HPI decals................its all I had LOL)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg rugrat2.jpg (47.3 KB, 188 views)

Last edited by Ted B.; 01-26-2004 at 09:46 AM.
Ted B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 09:44 AM   #6339
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

rc12L3 and the rugrat conversion it is
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 09:48 AM   #6340
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

your last post didnt pop up before i replied so might give that a go.
thanks for your help.
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 09:51 AM   #6341
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

ill probably get the rc12L3 and run as it is. Do IRS make a kit them selves or is it just optional parts?
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 09:53 AM   #6342
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default Re: pics

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
here ar a couple of pics

http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/IMG_1325.JPG


http://home.satx.rr.com/rpena/images/IMG_1326.JPG


let me know what you guys think..
The turnbuckles definately look flat on that, is that a Kimbrough servo horn?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 10:02 AM   #6343
Tech Apprentice
 
Ted B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 95
Send a message via Yahoo to Ted B.
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
your last post didnt pop up before i replied so might give that a go.
thanks for your help.
You might as well just get the Stock kit. I recommend purchasing an IRS axle with small diff rings. You can buy an IRS chassis, which is thicker has the newer battery placement options, I only did this because the yokomo was so thin. If you are running stock you should try and keep you car as light as possible so you may not even want to change at all. remember that two 12l3s won both classes in cleveland this year!!!!!!!!!! Check John Orr's setup on rc10.com

I think some people are trying to get tom complex with these cars (save that for those TC cars LOL)

Last edited by Ted B.; 01-26-2004 at 10:14 AM.
Ted B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 10:14 AM   #6344
Tech Master
 
dontfeelcold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

it will be mod 4cells. might get the chassis, axle and diff rings too, we have to add weight to the cars so we might as well do it usefully.

your help is much apprecited.

next question.

bodyshells. should i get one i like the look of or are they another tuning option depending on what type of track you run on.
dontfeelcold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 10:26 AM   #6345
Tech Apprentice
 
Ted B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 95
Send a message via Yahoo to Ted B.
Default

Dontfeelthecold- Bodies are very important in 1/12 racing. I'm testing the CEFX body as we speak, but I would recommend the parma speed 8, which I'm about to switch back to. Good Luck
Ted B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:43 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0