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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-25-2004, 07:41 PM   #6316
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Which cars are spring cars?
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Old 01-25-2004, 07:42 PM   #6317
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Carpet Knive and Rev. 3. Also the new HPI if it is ever released.
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Old 01-25-2004, 07:48 PM   #6318
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I have seen some CRC cars at the track , none of the others you mentioned. You going to the Snowbirds? Hope to meet some of the guys that are on here in Fla. I am really looking forward to it. It will be great to do some racing and watch some of the pros go at it. Hope to meet ya there. Kevin Mac.
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Old 01-25-2004, 07:50 PM   #6319
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I won't be at the Birds but I will be at the carpet nats.
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Old 01-25-2004, 07:59 PM   #6320
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I've never seen a single car have problems with taped in batteries. I'm not saying it never happens, I'm sure it does, but you have to do something really wrong, I guess. I can imagine if your chassis wasn't prepped properly the sharp edges could cut through the tape in a nasty wreck.

Fiberglass packing tape works fine. You can get that high end cf tape also. I hear it is more reusable, still sticks all night. I don't really know the name or source of it.
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Old 01-25-2004, 09:10 PM   #6321
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Quote:
Originally posted by tony montana
WHat kind of tape are most of you guys using to strap the batteries down
Get the Xenon tape from Speedtech RC, one piece has lasted me 2 racedays on carpet.
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Old 01-25-2004, 09:16 PM   #6322
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
I post this about once a week now.

If the servo is mounted flat it gives the car more steering in the hairpins. The more of an angle the servo is on it will give the car more steering through high speed corners which would work good on asphalt. I always mount flat for carpet and angle for asphalt.
Hmmmm Picco,
That's the same thing Mizfit=Nuke and I told you today at the track. Do you think we would lie to you just because you have a Yok
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Old 01-25-2004, 10:24 PM   #6323
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Try this; http://www.kaptontape.com/polyimide_tapes_1mil.html
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Old 01-25-2004, 10:58 PM   #6324
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Default Twitchy 12th scale

12th scale mod was fun, but I was a little inconsistant. But thats ok because it was my first time running it. It's not very dialed yet. The car is very twitchy and has a lot of steering. I think I have the dual rate down around 78 or something. One of the guys at the track says that when I corner the inside front tire lifts up a lot and almost leaves the ground. Does anyone have any ideas I could try? Heres my set up:

Damper tubes: I think its like 10000 wt. Mugen diff oil or something. It might be heaver but I'm not sure.

Camber: I'm not sure, I was so busy running sedan mod and 12th mod back to back I never had time to check it ! But its somewhere between -0 and -1 I believe.

t-bar: .063 (I will be changing to a .075)
front tires: TRC purple
rear tires: TRC Grey
ride height: 3.5mm
shock oil: 30wt.
servo: laid down
front springs: .022
center spring: copper? (its one of the springs that came in the kit, its like an olive drab color but I'm not sure its real name )

toe-in: straight ahead
10 angled arm mounts
caster: 2-4
motor: fantom PT special wind
body: parma speed 8

I'm going to try a few things next time:
- running CA along the outside edge of the tires
- setting camber to -1.5
- diff grease in the damper tubes? I want something super thick.
- mabey change the caster to 0-2
- .24 springs? That would decrease steering but increase the twitchy.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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Old 01-26-2004, 03:22 AM   #6325
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Changing to the .075 T-plate will cure most of your car's handling problems.
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:07 AM   #6326
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racerdx - your setup is very good. I question the dampening fluid you are using. I use the Losi Hydradrive fluids. They come in light, medium and heavy. Couple of questions:

1) what surface are you racing on?
2) what brand car (this isn't the biggest deal, but helpful)?
3) what camber are you currently using?
4) what tire traction are you using?
5) how much front tire did you apply traction to?

I looked at your DR setting and think the 78 is a little high. But I use and M8 and it may be different than your transmitter.

Also, I am using different rear tires to get traction for the full race, but that shouldn't introduce traction rolling in this discussion.
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:29 AM   #6327
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Quote:
Originally posted by P2
Hmmmm Picco,
That's the same thing Mizfit=Nuke and I told you today at the track. Do you think we would lie to you just because you have a Yok
P2

Yeah, you told me but I had the complete opposite effect. I had great steering in the sweeper and the faster bigger turns but at low speed turns the car wouldn't turn at all . So i'm going back to the angled servo mount because I didn't have those types of problems with them.
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:35 AM   #6328
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picco....

What's the angle of your tie rods look like? Straight across? Angled back towards spindles? Servo saver choice and the hole used? Maybe something is screwy there.
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:54 AM   #6329
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bodido
picco....

What's the angle of your tie rods look like? Straight across? Angled back towards spindles? Servo saver choice and the hole used? Maybe something is screwy there.
I had them a little screwed up when I got to the track. P2 told me I had to have put the tie rods straight across to the steering blocks because mine were angled from the servo saver down a little bit to the steering block. I'm using an airtronics 94145 servo mounted flat and the tie rods when you look at it from the top of the car is straight. I'm using the middle holes on the kinbrough gray small servo saver. I was using the top holes until P2 told me to use the middle holes......

I'm sorry if i'm confusing you but I'll try to post a pic in a couple of minutes....
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Old 01-26-2004, 06:57 AM   #6330
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You also need to make sure that the tierods are almost flat if you are looking at the car from the front. This will help to eliminate bumb steer. That could be your problem.
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