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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-21-2004, 10:10 PM   #6256
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CRC's dished wheel is close to Jaco offset. CRC's will make the rear a tick more narrow. And they are tough as nails.

Their front's are great, the design gets the wheel nut out of harms way. It's hidden within the wheel. Very durable as well. My tire bill went down when I switched.
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Old 01-21-2004, 10:22 PM   #6257
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Quote:
Originally posted by insideline
CRC's dished wheel is close to Jaco offset. CRC's will make the rear a tick more narrow. And they are tough as nails.

Their front's are great, the design gets the wheel nut out of harms way. It's hidden within the wheel. Very durable as well. My tire bill went down when I switched.
Cool, thank you. I'll go CRC it looks like.
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Old 01-22-2004, 04:11 AM   #6258
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Default My 1/12th

This my 1/12th scale racer. I bought it used off the German Ebay.
The one who knows what it is, scores 10 points!

I'm going to run it, just for fun, on a 1/8th scale track with some low (7 or 8)turn mod, to scare the nitro guys next summer.

I tried the car with a 13x3 on a 1/12th track a few weeks ago, and after a few runs I could hang with the regular 1/12th guys there, even with a servo that would center on 3 different spots.

Let's see who guesses it right!
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Old 01-22-2004, 04:12 AM   #6259
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Old 01-22-2004, 04:12 AM   #6260
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Old 01-22-2004, 05:36 AM   #6261
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Are you guys running any kind of front bumper? Let me know if there is one on available
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:48 AM   #6262
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Bobby Z-- Jaco did have a problem when they switched to the white rims but that is fixed now. I'll loan you a set of TM tires to run when we get to the Canadian Champ's. The rims are always true and the foam is much more consistant from tire to tire.

Pro ten-- I believe that it is an old Kyosho 1/12.
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Old 01-22-2004, 07:28 AM   #6263
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I just thought I'd comment on the on the whole O-ring flexing the chassis thing.... If you build all of your packs exactly the same way in the same jig, then I'd bet you'd have no problems. But if you have a pack that is slightly different or particularly unflat, you may run into problems. So with the speedmerchant and carpetknife being cars that both use the four cells in a row design, it's not really a matter of O-ring or tape, but cell arrangement . I'd say that taping a non-flat battery pack in a carpetknife would be even worse than using an O-ring. I know that I put more force in taping a battery in than that O-ring provides. With the t-bar cars you're much less likely to have these issues because the packs are 2x2 saddle. The cells will always drop down in the slots fully. It really doesn't have anything to do with how the battery is held down. You could also run 2x2 saddle packs in CK's and SM's. This would also eliminate the same issue. Just a little food for thought.

Ran the Rugrat Saturday. I really liked it. Unfortunately, to make up for my poor driving and lack of practice this season, I ran an easy to drive setup that was just too slow to be competitive. But that wasn't the cars fault at all. In fact Kilruf was TQ and winner with his rat, so it definately works well at that track. He was blazin with his, so I'm really encouraged. I really can't wait to try some different t-bars also. I've only run the .063 so far. I want to try the Silva spring steel, the CRC cf one, and a plain ole .075.
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Old 01-22-2004, 07:29 AM   #6264
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Quote:
Originally posted by Formula1fan
Are you guys running any kind of front bumper? Let me know if there is one on available
Go to home depot and get some 3/4 inch faucet washers, ream the hole out slightly so they'll fit over the base of your Rev3's body posts, get some Parma body post collars(they have the same I.D. as the diameter of the body posts' base) push the washers and body post collars down on to the posts. secure the collars with set screws, and Voila! Durable chassis protection that works better than Kydex or foam bumpers!
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Old 01-22-2004, 07:29 AM   #6265
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Oh..... and to agree with above.....

CRC wheels rock!! Round and solid!
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Old 01-22-2004, 07:46 AM   #6266
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Has anyone seen or heard anything about the new Protoform Speed 12?

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Old 01-22-2004, 08:48 AM   #6267
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell


Pro ten-- I believe that it is an old Kyosho 1/12.
Wrong, you do not progress to the final to win the refrigurator!

It's an old Kawada, with some serious mods on it. It doesn't have the most sophisticated supension, or the lowest possible CG, but it runs fine, I could keep up with Corally's on carpet, with a bad servo in my first time running 1/12th, let alone on carpet.
Take a look at the rear pod, that's something else!
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Old 01-22-2004, 08:48 AM   #6268
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Unhappy Help

I finally put my 3.2 CRC on the track. It pulled hard to the left. Is this a tweak issue or a diff issue?
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Old 01-22-2004, 09:00 AM   #6269
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J,
It sounds like a tweak issue. I saw your post on rcracing.com on your diff being stiff. Did you get it to free up a bit? After you build a diff with new parts it should be very smooth. Most of the time a gritty diff is caused by the outer bearing. Did you get a buyer for the Yok charger?
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Old 01-22-2004, 09:05 AM   #6270
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Quote:
Originally posted by jc510
I finally put my 3.2 CRC on the track. It pulled hard to the left. Is this a tweak issue or a diff issue?
When you lift the car up, does the rear pod stay level with the chassis?
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