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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-21-2004, 10:01 AM   #6241
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fike i came in late on the thread and was replying to adrians comment the way i look at it if it keeps the batt in the car it works
but if you batts keep falling out time to fix it or replace it.

someone said that they were running a 12L3 and was tired with give doug powell at prc a call he'll get you a conversion kit for the car that will make you fall in love again.
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 01-21-2004, 10:49 AM   #6242
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Default Re: New body

Originally posted by jc510
I just mounted the protoform Ascari LMP. It sits really low. I had to push the wires down to get the body all the way down. It appears to not interfear with the pod or shock.

Is this normal?
That body is sweet, I just had 2 of them ordered, I love how low it sits.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:29 AM   #6243
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Originally posted by RCsilly
Hey Ted ,
Sorry about your luck sunday , that A main was brutal , see you at Larrys ...............


It's all good! It's just a club race, although I wish maybe they didn't pack so many drivers of various skill levels into two mains, perhaps there should have been three??? Well, anyway I've decided to put down Touring Car racing and also I've stopped running the 1/12 Yokomo . The Yok car was fast and it got me a few TQ's and a couple of wins, but It couldnt handle some of the more 'physical demands' of racing at Larry's. So now I have a new ride (much more stiff) and I'm shooting for 51 laps LOL.


Thanks for the body!!! I hope it works. Your car flys!!!!!!!!!(literarly)LOL

Rand- I used 40 weight oil not thirty in the Yokomo- sorry

Last edited by Ted B.; 01-21-2004 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:37 AM   #6244
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I just read Adrian's post and it got me all nostalgic about my old setup, circa 1988:

RaceCo 1/12
KO EX9 Tx and Rx
Futaba MX9 esc
Futaba S-32
Lexan transponder mount for giant AMB unit
6 cell Sanyo 1200 SC, not matched
Peak Performance 17 quad

There were components hangin' off the sides everywhere;
Nobody even thought about running a reciever pack!

Anybody else remember thier old car?
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:46 AM   #6245
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Lets see, my old car...from 1990 or so...

TOJ body (then a Nissan and a Mazda GTP)
Novak T4 speedo (I think...it was something like that...it was an early high-frequency speedo)
locally matched 1700 SCE batteries, then the Panasonics (purple ones), then the 1700 SCR (black wrapped)
Trinity stock motors, and a 14X4 mod motor
Airtonics Caliber 3P Radio
No reciever pack (still don't run one...)
Stuck the transponder in the body (still do)

compare that with my current car:
RC12L3 with PRC rear dampener mounts and SpeedMerchant tubes
Protoform Bentley Speed8 body
Pro-Match GP3300's
Team Orion 12x2 Mod (whenever it gets here! Was running an Epic based Powerline 143 from 1997 prior), Paradox stock motor.
Futaba PCM 1024 "lunchbox style" radio

Last edited by Brolzy; 01-21-2004 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:53 AM   #6246
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Circa 1990.......

TQ Eagle "B" car
Leading edge 1700 SCE's
Tekin BC100L Charger
Novak T-1X Speedo
Novak NER-2 Receiver
Futaba Magnum 2PD Radio
Speedworks "Joel Johnson" 34 degree stock motor
Bud's Dyno
BBR LoTec body

The good old days, gear up 'till you dump, then drop one tooth!!
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:56 AM   #6247
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The good old days, gear up 'till you dump, then drop one tooth!!
Man, I still try to do that, but I haven't been able to dump the 3300's!! and man, I forgot about the BC100L and the Buds Dyno, I had them too!
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:30 PM   #6248
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Praise be to God I FINALLY GOT A 12TH SCALE!!!

I got an RC12L (which is pretty old school) and was wondering if parts from like the 12LC and the L3 could fit it. secondly, Whats a basic setup with a stock motor? (In this case a Monster Stock) Im plannin on getting an Ascari LMP body for it
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:32 PM   #6249
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Default Axle Spacing

Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Bobby Z-- With the IRS axel you can space your rear end well past 6.75".

As far as the front goes if you narrow it the car reacts faster but feels nervous. A wider front will cause a slight loss of steering but the car is more stable.

Thanks Adam

I suspected as much but wanted to confirm. Do you know how wide the front end is on your car? I measured mine today without the spacers and it is approximately 6.35"

Also do you run the rear end at the 6.75" max?
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Old 01-21-2004, 06:46 PM   #6250
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Ted B--I was on a 51 lap pace in the second and third rounds until I was trying to lap Ray. Its funny how everytime I went to lap him my car went off the track. How strange. Don't give up on the TC I just got another one.

Bobby Z--I think my front is around 1.5". Or a little narrower. If you use the threaded axels you can go wider but the car feels as if it dosen't want to turn as quickly.
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Old 01-21-2004, 06:48 PM   #6251
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Bobby Z--Sorry my front is 6.48" and my rear is 6.72".
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Old 01-21-2004, 07:26 PM   #6252
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Adam - thanks again. I will try a variety of widths and see what works the best.

Someone else suggested that the TRC tires are narrower than Jaco's in the rear. I know the TRC's are wider on the inside of the rim whereas the Jaco's end at the hub but I didn't think they were any different on the outside edge.

Something else to consider.
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Old 01-21-2004, 07:29 PM   #6253
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Both rims are the same width the TRC just uses a different offset. I prefer to run TM tires myself. If I can't I will chose Jaco over TRC anyday.
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Old 01-21-2004, 07:58 PM   #6254
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It's funny you say that because I was having a world of trouble with Jaco rims being out of true and the front rims becoming warped where the bearing presses in. I was also finding the rears to be out of true and chunking very easy. These were the newer white rim version and I never had any problem with the older grey rims. I got so fed up I switched to TRC and have loved them ever since. I hated having to change the colour scheme on my car to match the yellow rims but I think the TRC's run extremely true and stay together alot stronger.
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:02 PM   #6255
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Does anyone make white dish wheels with the same offset as Jaco?
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