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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-20-2004, 05:21 PM   #6226
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Check out www.powellracingcomponents.com for the Quad 12 conversion kit. Everything from your 12l3 will bolt right up and the new battery position makes the car a lot better for stock.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:26 PM   #6227
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Thumbs up Info on yok

Thanks Ted b for the info on the Yokomo your guys info is a major help.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:30 PM   #6228
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I just picked up the Yokomo 1/12 with the Shooters conversion. From what I've seen, it should be one of the best avalible.
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:18 PM   #6229
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Default Axle Spacing?

I am looking to try different axle spacing on the front and rear of my Quad 12 and I am interested in what others are doing or have found when changing the spacing on the front or rear of the car.

When I bought my original 12L3 they suggest using one 0.031" spacer on the front axles. I have done this still with my Quad 12 as I'm still using the dynamic front end. If I remove the spacer I assume my steering will change but I wonder if I will gain or loose steering?

With regards to the rear axle I am also trying to widen the rear track of the car. I see alot of setups have the rear end spaced to the maximum legal width of 6.75". I have tried to space my stock 12L3 axle to this width but the axle doesn't have enough threads on the left side to still get the nut on all the way and I'm only at 6.65" total. Does anyone running the IRS big ring diff have this problem as I think that is my next purchase anyway?

thanks in advance.

Bob Zahn
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:23 PM   #6230
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Bobby Z-- With the IRS axel you can space your rear end well past 6.75".

As far as the front goes if you narrow it the car reacts faster but feels nervous. A wider front will cause a slight loss of steering but the car is more stable.
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:37 PM   #6231
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What is the # of the mini digital Futaba servo?
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:29 PM   #6232
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S9650
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:25 AM   #6233
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Just finished setting up my Reflex 12...

If you would have told me 10 years ago that there would come a day when you could set up the electronics on a 1/12th scale car and end up with extra un-used room on the chassis I would have though you were crazy.

2004 Setup:

Airtronics Micro 2ch Rx
Keyence Zero V Extreme ESC
Airtronics 94145 Servo
AMB Personal Transponder, enough have room for 2 though!
4 GP3300's (424sec, 1.179v, 13IR)
Trinity Monster Stock 2

1994 Setup:

Futaba Mag Jr Rx
Futaba S-132
Tekin G-411P
Fold up .030 Lexan transponder mount for old school black AMB Transponder
Running 6 cell so no RX pack, couldn't run one if i wanted to!
Sanyo RC2000's (258sec, 1.122v, 19IR)
Trinity Midnight 1

Looked like this but it was an LC:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg main_12l3.jpg (41.0 KB, 190 views)
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What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 01-21-2004, 05:23 AM   #6234
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what is the rugrat conversion?

I think I will get a RC12 L3 and the rugrat conversion as people on this forum seem to have a high opinion of it.

what spares should i get just in case something breaks or bends?
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Old 01-21-2004, 05:50 AM   #6235
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
what is the rugrat conversion?

I think I will get a RC12 L3 and the rugrat conversion as people on this forum seem to have a high opinion of it.

what spares should i get just in case something breaks or bends?

You can find information and the kit here! http://www.teamirsrc.com/12scale.html
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:01 AM   #6236
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Default couple questions...

1st question,
I have the original R1 radio. Would a digital servo be of any benifit? (my servo in my 12th died last week)

2nd question,
Where are most people mounting the personal transponders? My car is pretty well balanced right now so I'm thinking of mounting it between the front wheels.

My input on the oring/chassis warpage.
Oring? Enough tention to bend the CF chassis? IMO, prabably not. I have a CRC CK 3.0 and there is no warpage. I've had the car for over 2 years and I always leave the oring on from week to week as well as over the summer when the car is put away till the following fall. My ride height is consistent when tested from front to rear and side to side. After reading the previous posts about warpage, I took the car apart and set the chassis on a glass table only to find there was no concave/convex curves on the chassis. But that's just in my expierence. I'd guess if somebody has a warped chassis, it was prabably warped to begin with, or maybe took a good t-bone hit?
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:20 AM   #6237
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
S9650
Thank You, anyone know where I'd be able to find the best price on this?
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Old 01-21-2004, 10:06 AM   #6238
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Default New body

I just mounted the protoform Ascari LMP. It sits really low. I had to push the wires down to get the body all the way down. It appears to not interfear with the pod or shock.

Is this normal?
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Old 01-21-2004, 10:30 AM   #6239
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Post o-ring vs. graphite strap

This all started because I asked Doug if he could make a graphite strap for my CRC. I wanted the graphite holder because I had the o-ring come off in high speed impacts. I figured the strap would hold the batteries in place better. Also, the o-rings stretch after repeated use, graphite doesn't.

There was never an issue of a warped chassis...

Wow... some of you guys need to lay off the sugar or watch your caffeine intake, don't read more that what is written.

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Old 01-21-2004, 10:52 AM   #6240
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Default Re: New body

Quote:
Originally posted by jc510
Is this normal?
Yes, it's very normal... your lucky that you didn't need to rearrange all of you electronics.

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