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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-19-2004, 05:22 AM   #6166
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Default 4 or 6

do i need to run 4 or 6 cells with my l3 i just got it and still learning got it done today actually at like 3 am and i have 2 bodies to paint up a nissanp35 from protoform and a speed 8 fom protoform so if ne has tips for me please help thanx
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:03 AM   #6167
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Default Re: 4 or 6

Quote:
Originally posted by miniRMAC
do i need to run 4 or 6 cells with my l3 i just got it and still learning got it done today actually at like 3 am and i have 2 bodies to paint up a nissanp35 from protoform and a speed 8 fom protoform so if ne has tips for me please help thanx
Way back when, people used to race both 4 and 6 cells in 1/12 classes. Now, 4 cell is pretty much it. You'd be amazed at how fast the cars are with only ~5V to the motors...

-dave
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:48 AM   #6168
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is there a particular 1/12 chassis that shines out from the rest?, or is it like TC cars where its much of a muchness
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:20 AM   #6169
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Default

well, basically almost any car you buy, there is a good chance it will be using the Associated front end. Then you decide if you want a T-plate car or a non T-plate car. Then, will you use center damper plates(12L3) or damper tubes (Rugrat conversion). I personally am using the Rug Rat version of the Associated 12L3 on asphalt and it works great!!! I have set a new track record by 2 laps over what they had been doing before I got into the class, and I am working on hitting one more. Of course, that is not all car , which is a completely different conversation
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:42 AM   #6170
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what does having or not having a t-plate do and when would you use one?

when would you use the damper plates and the damper tubes?do they do the same thing or do they have different affects on different surfaces?

thanks for your help
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Old 01-19-2004, 07:56 AM   #6171
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T bars cars are better for high bite tracks and mod racing. Its easier to dial out traction with a T bar car.

Link cars are goos in low bite or stock racing. They can have more rear end grip.

I like T bar cars because thay are simpler work, on all surfaces and they are proven consistant winners of big races.

Damper plates and tubes do the same thing. I they bothe work well but plates require a bit more maintenence to stay consistant. Damper tubes are the hot setup now as you can build them and they work for quite a long them before needed maintenance.

The besat cars out now are mod of the AE RC12L3 like the Quad 12, Hyperdrive, Rug Rat, T-Fource, etc.
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:17 AM   #6172
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what spare parts do you recommend i should get in case something breaks?
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:23 AM   #6173
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Default Chassis tabs

http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...ale003_540.jpg

I was looking at the Yok chassis. I noticed the chassis has some weird flaps, next to the rear pod. it's like an extension to the chassis that doesn't really do much.

Anyone know what they're for?
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:31 AM   #6174
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Default triming pod?

Originally posted by KilRuf
If you run TRC's on a 12L3 or Yok, you need to grind down the lower rear pod plate to allow clearance for the tire. TRC's are a different offset than Jaco's. Jaco's mount flush with the hub. TRC's are offset into the wheel alittle. That's why they rub on certain cars. My RugRat is slightly trimmed for this. Just get a dremel with sanding drum and go over the lower pod a couple passes til it clears. Simple, fast, easy. Just don't forget to go over it with superglue on a QTip to seal it back up.

As for Yok setup, I ran .020 springs (AE4113), thicker plate (or spring steel), Purple Front, Gray Rear, and Askari Body. 10 caster with shims to the back. 4 shims above upper arm, 2 shims under upper (kingpin). Batteries back with weight added on the rear tabs on the chassis (don't remember how much, but enough to get it at min weight). Slight toe out, with -1 ~ -1.5 camber. After that I went with a RugRat since I'll be at the Birds.

i just built up a rug rat w/ trc's and had no clearence problems, are you guys getting a correct center point measurment on the car and what are you setting rear width to? mines dead on at 6.75" w/ calandra pod plates(which are narrow) and theres plenty of clearence after it was shimmed correctly. not saying your doing something wrong but i know several others w/ rugrat and l3 cars running trc's and never run into that.
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Old 01-19-2004, 09:21 AM   #6175
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manfredo
Has anyone tried the inline steerig block from the Rc10L3O on a 12th scale ???
I don't think anyone has responded to you on this so here goes:

I used the inline axles on the AD "old school" front suspension in 2002 with some success. I was having trouble with the turn-in part on the steering and knew the oval guys used this to provide a more positive turn-in. I was running well with it on green to medium bite tracks, but found it was extremely agressive on heavy bite tracks. I did use a lot of variation with steering expo to adjust to the conditions, but it can be overkill. You should be able to get the offset steering blocks to work adequately on all types of surfaces. Also, the inline steering blocks did add some length to the wheelbase of the car. That could introduce another problem.

Sorry it took so long to respond. Been doing a heavy schedule of RACING (yeah).
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Old 01-19-2004, 09:25 AM   #6176
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Default Re: Chassis tabs

Quote:
Originally posted by elvo
http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...ale003_540.jpg

I was looking at the Yok chassis. I noticed the chassis has some weird flaps, next to the rear pod. it's like an extension to the chassis that doesn't really do much.

Anyone know what they're for?
i guess they are more for protection in case you are T-boned, more like nerf wings.
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Old 01-19-2004, 11:59 AM   #6177
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Default Re: Re: Chassis tabs

Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
i guess they are more for protection in case you are T-boned, more like nerf wings.
Masami put lead weights right there so I'm assuming thats what it's for since it was a car designed for the south africa track at the worlds.

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Old 01-19-2004, 12:14 PM   #6178
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Default Re: triming pod?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tnt2671
[B]Originally posted by KilRuf
If you run TRC's on a 12L3 or Yok, you need to grind down the lower rear pod plate to allow clearance for the tire. TRC's are a different offset than Jaco's. Jaco's mount flush with the hub. TRC's are offset into the wheel alittle. That's why they rub on certain cars. My RugRat is slightly trimmed for this. Just get a dremel with sanding drum and go over the lower pod a couple passes til it clears. Simple, fast, easy. Just don't forget to go over it with superglue on a QTip to seal it back up.

Hey, just wanted to add my opinion on this subject. I do not trim my lower rear pod. Instead I add shims onto the axle before mounting the wheel in order to keep the same with as the Jaco tires. Trimming rear lower pod will work but because of the offset the TRC tires will narrow the rear end of the car. Hope this helps.....
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:35 PM   #6179
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Does anyone have pic of how they shim old skool front end? Do you shim for caster with full tapered shims from somewhere or just reg washers? If you use reg washers does this take away from built in camber?
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:47 PM   #6180
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Default IRS castor block and Arms

Has anyone used IRS castor block and arms? What do you think of them and are they worth the investment?
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