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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-18-2004, 11:54 AM   #6151
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Default Re: yoke yrx 12 question

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Does anyone know the reasoning for the big graphite brace the we have to slide the batteries under before we tape? I have found that to be annoying since it's cutting my shrink wrap on the top of the cells. Does anyone know? Can you cut those so the cells will not be under that brace?
I actually have another yokomo yrx-12 question. I tried using trc tires yesterday, but the left rear tires was rubbing the rear pod plate. My impression is the axle is a bit short. IS there any other reason this is hapening. I'm probably just going to buy an irs axle.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 01-18-2004, 01:26 PM   #6152
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Default Re: Re: yoke yrx 12 question

Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
I actually have another yokomo yrx-12 question. I tried using trc tires yesterday, but the left rear tires was rubbing the rear pod plate. My impression is the axle is a bit short. IS there any other reason this is hapening. I'm probably just going to buy an irs axle.

-Sushi Boy
TRC tires are a bit wider than Jaco...the back spacing is different.
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Old 01-18-2004, 02:55 PM   #6153
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I already tried the spacing part, I found it very strange.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 01-18-2004, 03:04 PM   #6154
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i had the same ploblem on my 10L3 touring. TRC tires (left tire) would rub on the pod. i have not tried them on my carpet knife yet.
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Old 01-18-2004, 03:06 PM   #6155
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question: for 1/12 stock racing do you think i would have an advantage running 1700mah ni-cads? run time is not an issue and the 1700's have much higher voltage.
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Old 01-18-2004, 03:06 PM   #6156
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Default Tony M and Racenut

Tony-
The universal servo mounts that come with the CK might allow you to install a standard servo, but it's not a good idea. It will take up too much room and the extra weight up front won't help either. Save yer pennies and get a small servo. If money is the issue, the Hitec 225 MG can be had for only about $30 (or the plastic gear 225 for $5 less). It's not the best but it works.

John H-
I'm reading this on Sunday so it's too late to go to Hobbyworld. If I'd known there was a race, i'd be there (racing in the dark). Jeez, nobody tells me anything...
See you in Stockton-will you be wearing suspenders from now on?
O'D
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Old 01-18-2004, 04:34 PM   #6157
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Quote:
Originally posted by sean
question: for 1/12 stock racing do you think i would have an advantage running 1700mah ni-cads? run time is not an issue and the 1700's have much higher voltage.
You would be at a big disadvantage trying to run 1700's. The voltage is much higher with the GP's (remember they are now matched at 30 amps compared to the 20 amps your 1700's probably were matched at) and the internal resistance of the GP cells are much lower than the nicads ever were. Running the 1700's you will be lacking runtime, voltage, and punch
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:17 PM   #6158
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I just recived a my yokomo worlds and was wondering a good setup for running stock on carpet. The track is pretty tight with a medium lenght straight away. What tires, springs, and is this a good chassis it seems kinda thin. I really want to keep the chassis instead of getting a conversion for it.

Baboon14 or someting like that told me a setup once before but I cannot find it in the forums it was abuot a month ago or so. Also what body do you guys like to run.

Thanks in advance.

Sorry if I got your name wrong Baboon14
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:24 PM   #6159
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcracer37
I just recived a my yokomo worlds and was wondering a good setup for running stock on carpet. The track is pretty tight with a medium lenght straight away. What tires, springs, and is this a good chassis it seems kinda thin. I really want to keep the chassis instead of getting a conversion for it.

Baboon14 or someting like that told me a setup once before but I cannot find it in the forums it was abuot a month ago or so. Also what body do you guys like to run.

Thanks in advance.

Sorry if I got your name wrong Baboon14
I only used that chassis a couple times before I got a hyperdrive chassis. Here is my setup when I ran the Yokomo Chassis:

.22 springs up front, 10 deg caster, jaco purples

AE Blue spring in the back, thick tbar, mine had damper tubes and the damper disk setup (dunno why. I bought it used) so I put trinity purple stuff in the tubes. and Jaco Grey tires in the back.
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:07 PM   #6160
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Thanks Sushi Boy I appreciate the feed back I will try that.

Anybody use this setup or something different.

Thanks again.
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:11 PM   #6161
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For my yok I ran .20 in the front and the olive spring on the shock with the thick Tbar. I ran purples up front and white rears with the Cyrul body
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:16 PM   #6162
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Thanks Matt Howard, this is a great site I am glad I asked here the info I am getting is great.

and thanks once again guys
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:24 PM   #6163
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If you run TRC's on a 12L3 or Yok, you need to grind down the lower rear pod plate to allow clearance for the tire. TRC's are a different offset than Jaco's. Jaco's mount flush with the hub. TRC's are offset into the wheel alittle. That's why they rub on certain cars. My RugRat is slightly trimmed for this. Just get a dremel with sanding drum and go over the lower pod a couple passes til it clears. Simple, fast, easy. Just don't forget to go over it with superglue on a QTip to seal it back up.

As for Yok setup, I ran .020 springs (AE4113), thicker plate (or spring steel), Purple Front, Gray Rear, and Askari Body. 10 caster with shims to the back. 4 shims above upper arm, 2 shims under upper (kingpin). Batteries back with weight added on the rear tabs on the chassis (don't remember how much, but enough to get it at min weight). Slight toe out, with -1 ~ -1.5 camber. After that I went with a RugRat since I'll be at the Birds.
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:07 AM   #6164
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Thanks KilRuf This will at least get me going.
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:30 AM   #6165
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
If you run TRC's on a 12L3 or Yok, you need to grind down the lower rear pod plate to allow clearance for the tire. TRC's are a different offset than Jaco's. Jaco's mount flush with the hub. TRC's are offset into the wheel alittle. That's why they rub on certain cars. My RugRat is slightly trimmed for this. Just get a dremel with sanding drum and go over the lower pod a couple passes til it clears. Simple, fast, easy. Just don't forget to go over it with superglue on a QTip to seal it back up.

As for Yok setup, I ran .020 springs (AE4113), thicker plate (or spring steel), Purple Front, Gray Rear, and Askari Body. 10 caster with shims to the back. 4 shims above upper arm, 2 shims under upper (kingpin). Batteries back with weight added on the rear tabs on the chassis (don't remember how much, but enough to get it at min weight). Slight toe out, with -1 ~ -1.5 camber. After that I went with a RugRat since I'll be at the Birds.
Yay, I fixed it. Thanks KilRuf, trimming it did the trick.

-Sushi Boy
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