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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-17-2004, 08:58 AM   #6136
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Default switchbalde 12 2002se

the switchblade 12 se 2002 is almost identical to the reflex. there are parts out there for the car. the only ting you made need to keep on hand are the lower front arms. and those have not change since the revolver 22.2j. the whole rear end of the reflex will go on the 2002 se. but you do not need it. if you want to use the big diff you can use the irs 12l axle and hubs. if you do that i also rec the irs lower rear pods. it lowers it .090 just ablout the same as the current reflex.i currentely run the 2002 se and do not seem the need to switch.
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Old 01-17-2004, 09:59 AM   #6137
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Default SPRINGS

AE does have two different springs...the long are for the new style dynamic front end, and the short are made for the old skool front end. The part numbers are the same, however, you can tell the difference because the ones for the dynamic front end will say ".020 springs for dynamic strut" or something of that sort on the package. The old, short springs will say ".020 springs for 12l, lw, lc" or something like that. Just make sure it doesnt say for dynamic front end on the package and you will get the short springs.
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:31 AM   #6138
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Ok, I have a carpet knife v3.1, and was wondering if a hitech 81 mg will be good enough for steering, If not what servo will do? What kind of servo saver will work, and do I have to mount the horn upside down? Also I will be running a mod 4 cell, Do I have to run a reciver pack for my electronics, I running 3300 smc's with 402 seconds, in 5 mintues
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:20 PM   #6139
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Tony-
The 81 mg is a pretty small servo even for 12th scale. I've used them in 18th scale cars. That being said, my friend has one in his CK and it has worked ok so far. The small Kimbrough servo saver is what you want (Hitec ones are red). If you use the angled servo mounts then you will need to mount the servo saver upside down.
More common choices for servos are: Hitec 225MG, Airtronics 94145, Futaba 9650, or KO 947PDS. There are more, of course, but those are some common ones.
You don't need a reciever pack to make run time in 5 minute races but the rec. pack (5 or 6 cell) will make the servo faster, and reduce the chances of radio glitches.
O'D
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:42 PM   #6140
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Hey whats up Od!This is John Hicks from Stockton.....You coming to Hobbyworld thi sunday for the Killer Kieth race?If I dont see you there I will see you in Stockton!

Quick question Guys. I have been running 12th for about 1 month.I think I screwed up a bunch of new tires.I put them away and sometheing fell on them and smashed them to where when I pulled them out of the bags they had flat spots on the tires!Will th flat spots come out or is there a way to get them foam to expand back to normal again or am I just plain screwed?
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:55 PM   #6141
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Hicks,

Bring the tires out tomorrow and we'll see if we can get them back to normal. Until then try saucing them and leaving them on their sides.

See you tomorrow.

-James
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Old 01-17-2004, 03:20 PM   #6142
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odpurple thanks for the advise, One more question, Since all I have is one micro servo, can I use a full size servo instead with those angled mounts
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Old 01-17-2004, 04:11 PM   #6143
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is there a particular sevo saver i should use in my carpet knife? when i install it normally the tie rods bind up on the front end components. when i turn it upside down they rub on the rims. any suggestions on a proper servo saver? should i not use the kit servo mounts? BTW the servo is a JR z3550. i have heard peopl mention shoe glueing their servos in,has anybody tried hot glue? it isnt hot enough to burn plastic and i would think it would come off,just wondering if it has been tried. thanks-Sean
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Old 01-17-2004, 07:11 PM   #6144
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Default Hitec 81MG

I used to run the 81MG in my Speedmerchant.......the problem you will have is that it doesnt have enough torque to hold the line through the turns or it doesnt have the power to turn in from a high speed section........the car would always drift out thru the corners.

I put the KO 947 in and the car picked up a lap or so overall and I was able to dial a lot of dual rate out.

Just my experience.......
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Old 01-17-2004, 07:44 PM   #6145
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yep, the best servo right now for 12th scale, is by far the Ko 947, although, that wont be the best in a few months , dont worry, the best is still going to be a KO
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:16 PM   #6146
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
yep, the best servo right now for 12th scale, is by far the Ko 947, although, that wont be the best in a few months , dont worry, the best is still going to be a KO
I dissagree....Airtronics/Sanwa 94145 baby!!!
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:27 PM   #6147
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Default yoke yrx 12 question

Does anyone know the reasoning for the big graphite brace the we have to slide the batteries under before we tape? I have found that to be annoying since it's cutting my shrink wrap on the top of the cells. Does anyone know? Can you cut those so the cells will not be under that brace?
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:37 PM   #6148
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Quote:
Originally posted by JamesArluck
Hicks,

Bring the tires out tomorrow and we'll see if we can get them back to normal. Until then try saucing them and leaving them on their sides.

See you tomorrow.

-James
good to see you on line here James
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:47 AM   #6149
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Default Re: yoke yrx 12 question

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Does anyone know the reasoning for the big graphite brace the we have to slide the batteries under before we tape? I have found that to be annoying since it's cutting my shrink wrap on the top of the cells. Does anyone know? Can you cut those so the cells will not be under that brace?
Picco, You can cut those bad boys off!!! I think they are for dampener tubes. All you need is to modify your rear brace like a 12L3 to support the dampener disk and rear standoffs....you know the ones that came loose on you yesterday. If you mess up cutting them off you always have a backup
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Old 01-18-2004, 09:42 AM   #6150
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Default Switchblade front springs

Does Trinity make additional front springs and does anyone know who sells them? Thanks.
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