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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-24-2002, 11:25 PM   #601
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Kevin, Kevin, Kevin LOL!!! You're making me bust a gut over here seriously. LOL Have to admit that last night was quite frustrating but I figure I'll run some Monday night and that should alleviate some of the problem. I asked Rob if he wants to go and practice Monday night as well so if you talk to him twist his arm and make him come on out. Are you going to Indy for the 4th leg of the US Triple Crown Series Kevin?
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Old 02-25-2002, 01:38 AM   #602
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dave,
could tell me what this thingie is??????Look at the pic it is circled in red. It appears to be some sort of battery retention device but I want to know if that comes with the kit or is that something that Josh or David have on their cars?
IKE
P.S.Magenta Fronts and Grey rears right?
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Old 02-25-2002, 02:16 AM   #603
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Foams- Hey what's up? About to go to bed and saw your post. Purple Fronts and Greay Rears normally but I have been using Magentas and they seem to work really well on medium bite tracks for me although purples are still good also. On really high bite tracks that black groove I think I will probably stick with purples so that the front end doesn't bite so hard and try to "screw itself into the ground" as we call it which is the prelude to a traction roll. Too much grip is a bad thing because it also slows down corner speed which is why Josh and Dave and others have the front arms parallel instead of the back link being in the inside hole for all of that reactive caster. BTW, I don't see a pic anywhere of whaterver it is you're talking about. If it is the little wing that mounts in the batter slot it's to brace the batteries. Don't use it because it's not needed if that is what you're talking about. If it's something else I need you to describe it or get me the pic.
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Old 02-25-2002, 12:51 PM   #604
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dave, sorry, I always do this I reply but I dont upload the pic. I think that is what it is but here is the pic anywho.
IKE
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Old 02-25-2002, 01:34 PM   #605
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darnold- I am Dave S's brother. His car traction rolls at the end of the strait, but no where else. first we tried setting it up with more front camber, this helped, but it still did it on hairpin after the staight. In my 12LC, it did the same thing but was remedied by putting grey on the rear instead of whites. my brother is running Jaco purple/gray. he tried dialing steering out, this helped off the straight, but in the infield it pushed, or seemed like it since it did't have enough steering. so he just drove it the way it was, my car will do it occasionally, but only when I sauce the whole rear and go into the corners way too hot. so I told him to not to sauce the whole rear, but the car didn't act any different. my thoughts are that it might be the t-plate is too weak, since he bought the car used and the number of runs on it are a mystery. he has the angled blocks with 4 degrees caster, which is the normal setup around here.

I am after more steering in mine, I put in .016 front springs since I was running .018's and had a little push. I figure that this will make it more responsive, am I correct? I have done everything I can to make the rear stiffer, I am running a .078" t-bar and tried changing rear springs but tht made very, very little difference.

I finished 4th in the Mod A main! my car is dialed in the corners (besides the slight push) but just need to feed more speed to my heap!

thepetenis
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Old 02-25-2002, 02:34 PM   #606
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Foams- no problem, I wasn't the slightest upset I just didn't have a real clue. BTW those are the battery wings that I was talking about and don't worry about running them. The Trinity Guys aren't and some have had problems with their batteries shorting against them until they CA'd the edges of those wings. I don't run them, if your car takes enough of a hit to move the batteries out of position then they will also be out of the car from the tape breaking. In other words you're already broke.-Dave
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Old 02-25-2002, 02:47 PM   #607
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Petenis- Part of the traction roll issue can be that the car is being driven too hard into the corner on a high bite surface (should see a dark or even black groove around the track). Usually though it's that the front is biting too hard trying to "screw itself into the ground" and this "twitching" going into the corner is the sign of the imminent and dreaded traction roll. On the Trinity Cars it's easy to adjust for buy raising the roll center, which is to say that you raise the height of the ball studs that the front arm links connect to. On the Associated front end you have some problems because it's not so adjustable. Here is what I would try on your front end now that I have recently (4wks ago) figured this out: Put all of your spacer shims in the kingpin on top of the steering block just underneath the top arm. This has the same effect because you are raising the roll center at the steering block (it's the OPPOSITE of what it looks like you're doing due to the fixed position of the lower arm and its relationship with the wheel axle). This should reduce the traction roll tendency and if you still need a little more steering put 1 of the washers underneath the steering block.
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Old 02-25-2002, 02:56 PM   #608
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Dave, thanx again for the help. My car should be on Wednesday. Any thoughts on what I should get for spares? The shop doesnt want to carry spares for one persons car.(maybe when I get 1/12 going again up here they will ) I got the same problem with my Mission I had to order a bunch of spares when I got the kit so I could keep myself racing.
IKE
P.S.I got the Protoform Speed 8 body, do I need to do any spoiler mods or anything like that?
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Old 02-25-2002, 03:15 PM   #609
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Foams- Order at least 2 thick T-bars and 2 thin T-bars ($5 each) along with 3 sets of .020 Associated springs($2 each). Also get yourself 3 sets of differential rings($1.50each pair) and enough diff balls to go with it($7 for 100). Get two 100t spur gears($4 each) if you run 64pitch if they don't stock those. Buy a backup screw set if you can and a set of "lower" front arms ($2) for the "revolver" front end which is the one that comes with the kit. The kit tires are Greens so make sure you have a set or two of purples for the front and Grays for the rear. Also get yourself 2-3 of the Flanged bearings for the diff. I think they are 1/4 x 1/8 but I'm not sure ($5 each). This is only if your hobbyshop doesn't carry these items. Whatever items they carry don't sweat the rest because you can buy them as needed in the future.-Dave
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Old 02-25-2002, 03:17 PM   #610
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Foams- I meant to say that whatever items they have don't order those as I have suggested because you can buy them in the future as needed. But whatever they don't have/stock I suggest picking up in the quantities I mentioned so that you always have them and can keep the car in top order.-Dave
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Old 02-25-2002, 03:19 PM   #611
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dave,
I cant seem to find the part number for the thick T-Bar and the balls and cups that correspond with it.
IKE
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Old 02-25-2002, 04:38 PM   #612
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Earlier...someone suggested that i run 4 degree caster...well... i thought i had 4 degree....but i put both white washers in front of the upper arm...which gave me 6 degree...duh...could this be the reason for my push??????(note to self...read the instructions carefully).

My manual does suggest setting tweak from the rear.I think the notch in the Trinity pod is a neat idea for setting tweak
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Old 02-25-2002, 09:45 PM   #613
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Dragon, Make sure you measure the caster as the front end is not super precise. You may end up needing to shim one side or the other slightly to get 4 degrees. Like I said below, tweaking from the front relies on your front end being set up without worn springs, sticking kingpins, etc., etc.. Which I know your car doesn't have any of those problems, does it?
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Old 02-25-2002, 09:57 PM   #614
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Darnold and Dragon Slayer,

Thanks for the info. the car had a washer under the front pivot for the t-bar when I bought it, and I totaly re-did the front end as it was missing spacers. I tweak each of my cars before every race, and I do the front and the back. It has brass pivot balls in the front end-does anyone know whom sells these? I would like to get more for the CRC that is my stock car. Anyway, all of the problems I think are driver related. I am used to running the CRC with a stock motor and not lifting until the last minute before a corner. It got better for the main, Mitch was giving me a few pointers about stuff to do with ride height( it was way too high, and the difference from front to back was causing it to dive and dig the front end in, I think. It only did it twice in the main and I think it was because I was trying to out brake someone into the hairpin on the end of the long straight the first time, the second time I was trying to catch someone and carried too much speed. I am probably the only person whom can make a 1/12 scale car traction roll. Hey Darnold, I picked up an Orion Core 11x2 yesterday looks pretty kick-butt. It was suggested to me to run a 35 rollout to begin with and see how long it lasts. What tips do either of you have from a driver's standpoint as far as how to become smoother and fast? Or is that something that just comes with lots of controller time? I am finding that I late-apex lots of corners but am starting to turn in earlier than I have been with good results-I have even stuck my nose under a few people instead of going around cars on the outside, which more often than not doesn't work. Thanks for your help, guys. I am going to try to get out there on Thursday to run the CRC/ stock motor for a little extra track time. There are smaller fields from what I have heard and track time is track time, right?

I can't remember whom wrote it, but I think putting down how everyone's race weekend went ( positions, wrecks, close ones, etc.) is a sweet idea. Here's how mine went from last Saturday:

First night running the new 12L3 in modified, no less. Didn't make the first qualifier, I put the speed gems together wrong and didn't want to hold up the program, so I put the Mr. K's in while the race was going on. Nine cars total in modified, enough for two heats. Second qualifier went well other than traction rolling and basically getting used to the car and extra speed modified has to offer. Third qualifier tried evening out ride height( Thanks Mitch and Petenis for the help ) Fewer traction rolls and starting to get used to the speed now. Qualified 8th for the A Main. Petenis, my younger brother, qualified 4th(way to go dude! ) Still getting used to the car- doesn't act the same as the CRC, but felt planted fairly well as long as I kept my head screwed on straight and got out of it early. Learning to use momentum in the corners, and part throttle instead of grabbing full all the time in stock- definately gained even more respect for the guys whom make it look easy and fast. Finished seventh-not bad, considering two cars dropped out and only one of these I think I could have beaten. I didn't think it was possible, but I like racing even more now -

Keep the shiny side up, fellers! Hope to hear back from you soon!

Dave S
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Old 02-26-2002, 03:05 AM   #615
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Foams- I don't know them either but I would think that your LHS would be able to find out what the Associated Part Numbers are for their thick t-bar and ball cups/screws if they can't get the Trinity numbers. Is your car in yet? They are really sweet.
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