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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-15-2004, 05:34 PM   #6106
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It sounds like I'll definately be picking up a Silva plate. Weather you guys agree or disagree, I think I have a feel for what I can expect from it. I appreciate the input.

The track I'm racing at Saturday doesn't have a ton of bite, but is very smooth. It's rather flowing and open, not very technical and medium sized. Right now I've got 40wt in the shock, red center, red side springs, medium hydra fluid. Tweaked at the t-bar. Old school front end with .020's. Protoform P35 (not my favorite, but it was with the car and I don't have time to get another body ready).

I'll let you guys know where I end up setup wise.
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Old 01-15-2004, 06:06 PM   #6107
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Default Davidl,

1) How about a 35V 1000Mfd cap from RadioShack? Is there anything special about the device from Digikey?

2) If you do not throttle your car such that you get back to neutral throttle, does the capacitor recharge and help the motor supply extra punch? In other words, do you need to throttle your car such that you return to neutal frequently so that the capacitor can recharge.

3) Will battery run time be reduced when using the capacitor?

4) Why is high impedance required to work in a high speed circuit?
1) The digikey one is High FREQUENCY, I was wrong about high impedence.

2) NO throttling required. As your ESC turns on and off at however many Hertz, the cap charges up and discharges with it. This is why it doesn't make any difference at full throttle, the ESC is basicly switched ON.

3) Should be no change in run time, just more low to mid throttle response.

4) High frequency, see #1, I was wrong.

I can feel the difference with it on a stock motor.

David Root
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Old 01-15-2004, 06:14 PM   #6108
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Default Part #

Digikey.com part # P10264-ND $2.65 each.

Buy 3 because you will like it, and they do get damaged.

Think of it as turning this /\/\/\ into this ~~~~~

David Root
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Old 01-15-2004, 06:41 PM   #6109
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MikeD - you haven't run on the new track at The Gate in Cleveland
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Old 01-15-2004, 06:47 PM   #6110
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I am with Mike on the T plate issue. I like the fact that steel one is softer front to back which allows you to fine tune the motion more with the shock. Isn't that what its there for?

Davidl-- I thought that when I saw your car in Toledo it didn't have the side springs. Oh well, my mistake.
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Old 01-15-2004, 06:53 PM   #6111
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Just to let everyone know that I will be releasing a new spring steel t-plate that will be stiffer. This has be a big request for mod guys. Dave at IRS will have them in about 1 to 2 weeks. The part number will be SC143. IF any one has any more questions please let me know.

Duane Silva
Silva Concepts
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Old 01-15-2004, 07:00 PM   #6112
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Can't wait to try it out.
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Old 01-15-2004, 07:45 PM   #6113
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Default dyeing TRC rims?

Has anyone dyed TRC rims with the rubber on? Thanks,Jay.

Last edited by Jay Boyd; 01-15-2004 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 01-15-2004, 09:42 PM   #6114
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What do you guys think of the new protoform body?

Just saw it on protoform's web site.
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Old 01-16-2004, 05:01 AM   #6115
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Quick note on the caps...
The main differences in the cheap Radio Shack and the Digi-Key ones..


(all the EE guys should remeber this )
Checkout google for descriptions...
TnT-Fx Custom Graphics
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Old 01-16-2004, 05:47 AM   #6116
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Default PrototFORM Speed 12 GTP



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Old 01-16-2004, 06:01 AM   #6117
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SWEET is right. Only problem is that I now have to test another body to see which I prefer.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:04 AM   #6118
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Adam - You saw correctly. But I do different things at different places and am going to try almost everything at one point or another. I understand what you said about the metal t-plate. But I stand by what I said earlier because you are trying to tune for a particular track at a particular time. I don't believe there is a setup that can be described as "one fits all." I will be in Lansing this Sunday. Will you be there?
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:04 AM   #6119
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Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
SWEET is right. Only problem is that I now have to test another body to see which I prefer.
Adam, check your PM
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:08 AM   #6120
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Sweet is right! The CRC rims look great on it too. (but I guess I am biased...lol)

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