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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-14-2004, 05:17 AM   #6076
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Originally posted by AdrianM
I haven't raced 1/12 since last years snowbirds and I wanted to get a heads up on tires....

I have a new Reflex 12 on the way. What tires do I get? All sedans are moving to dbl pink orange fronts and dbl pink rears. Are you running dbl pink fronts in 1/12? What rears...gray, white, pink? I'll be running 4 cell stock.
Try TRC Grey Rears and Cyan Fronts. I've also found Granite Rear/Cyan front and Grey Rear/Tan front to be good combinations on my Speedmerchant. Alot of the CRC guys ran grey fronts and rears at Cleveland too. Hope this helps.
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 01-14-2004, 09:10 AM   #6077
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Default Reflex 12 tires


The kit tires are Purple front and Gray rears. The are even turned down.
This is an excellent choice for carpet. You can go racing with these and then experiment with others like Cypruss suggested.

If you need a setup, this is from Cleveland:
Caster 3
Camber 1 1/2
020 AE front springs
.075 AE T plate
Batteries to the rear

A few modifications from the kit setup:
Front of shock mounted on chassis, not on T plate ball stud.
I drilled another hole in front of the antenna hole. Mount the Fr ball stud that the fr of the shock mounts onto into the antenna hole, and mount the antenna into the new hole.

Shorten the camber link (rear link) position. You will need to cut some threads off.

Get extra rear lower pod plates, this is a weakness on this car. Also don't bother with the supplied body posts , they'll break right off. use SM or CRC

The Trinity guys are using CRC damper tubes with Losi Med.
The stock tubes have only one grove for fluid retention

Thanks for all your help the past years!
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Old 01-14-2004, 01:35 PM   #6078
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Default My .02 mfds

I found some 16v 4700 Mfd High impedence caps from a distributor on the net. I think it was Digikey. They are the right ones.

Think of a cap as a shock abosrber. Power can go in and out but fast. The cap stores the power for milliseconds. It will work WITH your FETs in your esc if they don't already have one. They do NOTHING at full throttle. Battery voltage and current are their highest at Wide open and the cap cannot add more to it. There is no magic here.

Under partial throttle, the cap will help the esc and battery pack work together. If you don't believe me, just hook one wire up and touch the other one to the other side with partial throttle. The motor will speed up. It will also have more punch from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I can feel the difference.

If you want to see what a cap does, just hook it up to a battery for a second or two. NOW touch the cap leads together. You will get a spark, and a pretty big one at that. It is releasing its stored energy all at once. This is what it does when you open the throttle part way. The FETs turn on and off. At off time, the cap is charging. When ON, the cap discharges and gives a little more to the motor, or esc because the cap is hooked to the battery side of the ESC. This is also why you need High Impedence, to keep up with the high switching speed of new ESCs.

OK after all that, I don't use one on 1/12 scale stock because I don't drive that good after 1.5 seasons of on road 1/12 scale. I can not comment on how it will work in 1/12, but I can feel the difference in 1/10 scale truck or Pan car.

I repeat the cap will do nothing for full throttle operation. There is no magic here.

David Root
Going to Fountain Raceway Friday night for 1/12 Raod course
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Old 01-14-2004, 01:39 PM   #6079
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For a good piece of my career, I worked on electric forklifts. 36 or 48 volt lead acid batteries that weigh 5,000 Lbs, Brushed DC motors that I can barely pick up the armature, and SCR (FET?) controlled circuts. AND CAPACITORS BIG ENOUGH TO PUT A DING IN A SCREWDRIVER WHEN DISCHARGED!

David Root
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Old 01-14-2004, 01:49 PM   #6080
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I'm going to race 1/12 scale modified the coming weekend, but for the first time ever it will be with only 4 cells. I'm wondering if the Keyence zero extreme will work with 4.8V without any additional receiver batteries? I assume the LRP Quantum Competion will, but that's in my TC. Also what gearing and advance would you recommend for a Orion revolution 12*1?
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Old 01-14-2004, 03:33 PM   #6081
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It will work just fine for Stock and 19T. If you run Mod get a 5 cell (50Mah NiCd or 160Mah NiMH) pack.

To run a Keyence with an RX pack pull the red wire from the ESC's RX plug and plug in the battery to the Rx. You will have to switch the packs power switch and the ESC power switch to make the Motor run. This is just a quirk of the Keyence's power system and proof that its nothing like a Novak or LRP.

The reason you need a RX pack in Mod is to keep enough power going to the Rx and Servo coming out of corners on power late in a race.
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 01-14-2004, 06:36 PM   #6082
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Just picked up a new 12L3 and a lovely new Rugrat conversion. Coming from a carpet knife. I'm new to t-bars and have a couple questions....

Should the pivot balls be a tight fit in the sockets for the t-bar? I assumed they wouldn't be near as tight as they ended up. I figured when I was done the t-bar would move freely from left to right, like you would expect a suspension arm to drop under it's own weight, but that isn't the case at all. It moves smoothly, but it needs considerable force. I can't imagine the pod being able to center up with this much drag.

Is it prefered to tweak the car by using the tweak screws on the t-bar, or by the adjusment on the damper tubes? I assume it's one or the other, but not both. Maybe I should use the adjustment on the tubes only when using side springs, and the tweak screws when not running side springs. Thoughts?

Any setup ideas for stock on relatively low bite carpet, medium sized track, fairly open and non-technical. One way that I'm currently limited is that I only have a .063 t-bar right now. I'm going to run the old school block front end, purples/ grays, etc...

Thanks in advance guys...
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Old 01-14-2004, 07:01 PM   #6083
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Bodido--The pivot balls should move freely with little or no force. As far as the damper tubes go ditch the springs. I run a Quad 12 but all the RugRats I have seen don't use the springs.
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Old 01-14-2004, 07:20 PM   #6084
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Thanks Adam. That's what I figured. I guess I can polish the pivot balls and not run the sockets as tight.

I was gonna run side springs until I get a hold of a .075 t-bar. Should I try it without side spring even though I only have a .063 t-bar? Actually mine measured out as .060...
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Old 01-14-2004, 07:27 PM   #6085
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Bodido, ya bringin that car down here this weekend? Who else is coming down? Catch there if ya are.

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Old 01-14-2004, 07:40 PM   #6086
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SSSHHHHH!! It's a secret. Just got it today.

I'll be bringing it.

Jady, Keith, Shane and myself.... Maybe a couple more. Maybe Josh. I don't think Mike McDaniels will be making it, so that's one better finishing position for me right there. Haha.

Feel free to post your setup.

Do you know if Glenn has any .075 t-bars in stock?
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Old 01-14-2004, 08:21 PM   #6087
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Default Quad 12 Pic

Here is another pic of my Quad 12 with the electronics arranged how I wanted them.

(if only our track used personal transponders it wouldn't be so much of a hassle to make room for a regular transponder!!)

The car is handling great and one of the smoothest cars I have ever had the privlege of driving. Keep up the good work Doug.

Bob Zahn
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File Type: jpg quad 12- bob zahn.jpg (93.5 KB, 195 views)
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Old 01-14-2004, 08:39 PM   #6088
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Bodido, I'll PM you my setup. See ya there. I'll be late since I have to work. But I'll make the last 2 qualifiers and the main.
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Old 01-14-2004, 08:39 PM   #6089
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Bobby Z-- Haved you tried a spring steel T plate yet. It makes the car even smother. If you do try one the blue spring is the softest you can run for stock and the silver is the absloute softest you can run period. I have been using one on my Q12 for a while now.
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Old 01-14-2004, 09:14 PM   #6090
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Default Re: Quad 12 Pic

Originally posted by Bobby Z
Here is another pic of my Quad 12 with the electronics arranged how I wanted them.

(if only our track used personal transponders it wouldn't be so much of a hassle to make room for a regular transponder!!)

The car is handling great and one of the smoothest cars I have ever had the privlege of driving. Keep up the good work Doug.

Bob Zahn
Nice picture. Thanks for the compliment.

**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
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