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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-12-2004, 01:27 PM   #6061
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Brian - peace. You should have seen that I have criticized Storm for some of his handy work as well. I guess the point here is that the original riff between Frank and Bruce is over and the people close to both need to forget and move on. They have.
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Old 01-12-2004, 01:55 PM   #6062
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Cool. My entry will be going out soon. Thanks man.

What type of changes have you heard about for the Champs?
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Old 01-12-2004, 02:24 PM   #6063
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Quote:
Originally posted by dumper
Cool. My entry will be going out soon. Thanks man.

What type of changes have you heard about for the Champs?
At this point, I am bound by honor to carry such information to my grave if necessary. But hopefully the cat can be let outta the bag soon.
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Old 01-12-2004, 02:41 PM   #6064
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DavidL- I get along with Bruce. I always have. I respect anyone who supports 1/12th scale. But I know you will call it as you see it, all allegiences (sp) aside. You have always been a straight shooter, and I have the utmost respect for you. See you at the 'Birds.
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Old 01-12-2004, 05:25 PM   #6065
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I finally got my a 12th scale again. I got a hyperdrive, and I will start building today if I get a chance. I'm going to go paint up a body right now. But I'm still trying to decide on which color to make it, Im leaning towards black. Because when I hit stuff the smudges dont show up as much . I'm also downloading 12L3 instructions right now because I'm not very impressed by the word document that it comes with .

My first question on building it is, what thickness of t-plate does it come with? I think Ive heard like .63" or something, whats the next size up? Is that something like a .73"? How will changing the t-plate (stiffer or softer) effect the handling of the car? Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2004, 06:55 PM   #6066
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i was not sure where to post this,so i will ask you guys. i have a Novak xxl 75 MHz FM receiver and it has a little Hitec sticker on it. my question is do i have to use a Hitec Tx with it? or can i use any brand? does the Hitec sticker on it just mean that it readily accepts Hitec style plugs? Novak says that i have to use a Hitec radio, but some one else told me that they have mixed and matched them. it does not really matter to me i just want to make sure i can use it with the Tx i buy (Hitec wasnt on the list) and the xxl fits nicely in my 1/12,i would hate too have to buy another one.- thanks,and sorry for getting off topic-sean
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:22 PM   #6067
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:52 PM   #6068
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Quote:
Originally posted by racerdx6
I finally got my a 12th scale again. I got a hyperdrive, and I will start building today if I get a chance. I'm going to go paint up a body right now. But I'm still trying to decide on which color to make it, Im leaning towards black. Because when I hit stuff the smudges dont show up as much . I'm also downloading 12L3 instructions right now because I'm not very impressed by the word document that it comes with .

My first question on building it is, what thickness of t-plate does it come with? I think Ive heard like .63" or something, whats the next size up? Is that something like a .73"? How will changing the t-plate (stiffer or softer) effect the handling of the car? Thanks.
Weylin,

It comes with a .63, just a tad softer than what I run. I usually run the .75 t bar. I found it reduces the body roll, which bleads off corner speed. It will also recact faster when transitioning from corner to corner. You will love the car. Ryan is having very good luck with his. I'm debating on getting the reflex 12 just because it looks cool, but I will probably just buy some plates to fix the current l3/hybrid thingy I have. Racing Saturday?

-Sushi Boy
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:04 PM   #6069
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Default newby to 1/12

i am getting my first 1/12 scale car soon for a race i used to race 1/10 indoor on carpet and i amd getting a associated l3 for 75 buck with extra sets of tires and i have a lrp v6 i will be running unless you sugest a different one and i still need any help if you wil be willing to give any advise any help at all will be greatly apreciated thanks
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Old 01-13-2004, 08:40 AM   #6070
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If anyone has a carpet knife for sale call me at 817-219-4335 or email me at info@topgeek.com
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Old 01-13-2004, 09:06 PM   #6071
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Let's try a new topic. Here goes:
"Has anyone seen a difference with the power of your 4-cell 1/12 scale when using a power capacitor on the speedo or not using the power capacitor?" If so, what is the reason?
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Old 01-13-2004, 10:51 PM   #6072
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I haven't raced 1/12 since last years snowbirds and I wanted to get a heads up on tires....


I have a new Reflex 12 on the way. What tires do I get? All sedans are moving to dbl pink orange fronts and dbl pink rears. Are you running dbl pink fronts in 1/12? What rears...gray, white, pink? I'll be running 4 cell stock.
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Old 01-14-2004, 04:15 AM   #6073
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Default just getting into it

i am soon to get into 1/12 and i was wondering for the L3 with calandra rear clip if a lrp ipc v6 is good or not and best combo of 4 or six cell for either mod or stock i ran 1/10 onraod at one time but i am getting the L3 for a race at a rc expo and i need some advise if any one is willing to give any if so please email me at gti_chaos18@hotmail.com thanx
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Old 01-14-2004, 05:10 AM   #6074
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
Let's try a new topic. Here goes:
"Has anyone seen a difference with the power of your 4-cell 1/12 scale when using a power capacitor on the speedo or not using the power capacitor?" If so, what is the reason?
The power capacitor is on the ESC to protect it. The fet's on the ESC work as switches. When they want to shut, the current passing through them coming out of the battery can't stop at once, it will have to be routed somewhere else, because otherwise the fet will have to burn it off as heat; not good! The Capacitor will take up that current. Even, without the capacitor, the fet''s might even be hampered to shut. On 4 cell, you might not need the capacitor, because there's less current flowing, but it might help efficiency (read run-time).
You don't want to use just any capacitor. The regular capacitor's are not designed to work at the high switching speeds of today's esc's. If you destroy one (by soldering it wrong way around for instance) get a new one from the ESC's manufacturer.
I have been using a regular capacitor on my esc, and started to feel more like an on-off-switch with it. Also it ran quite hot. Don't make my mistake!

The capacitor might slighly increase punch, because it might help the battery for a short time (think in milliseconds) under really heavy loads, like hard acceleration from a standstill.
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Old 01-14-2004, 05:50 AM   #6075
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Good post, Pro. Anybody else?
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