R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


Print Wikipost

Like Tree40Likes
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-11-2004, 01:43 PM   #6031
Tech Regular
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: washington state
Posts: 439
Send a message via AIM to rcracer37

What pinion and spur gear are you guys running with a fantom stock motor?
rcracer37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2004, 01:47 PM   #6032
Tech Addict
JCB's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 741

Which Fantom Stock are you referring to? Monster?
JCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2004, 01:51 PM   #6033
Tech Regular
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: washington state
Posts: 439
Send a message via AIM to rcracer37

Ya monster
rcracer37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2004, 02:24 PM   #6034
Tech Addict
JCB's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 741

Well, depending on the size of the track and style. But my rollout is about 1.55 (27 pinion 100 spur. 1.85 tires). Let me know if this helps.
JCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2004, 08:29 PM   #6035
Tech Master
=MisFitz= NuKe's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,058
Send a message via AIM to =MisFitz= NuKe Send a message via Yahoo to =MisFitz= NuKe

Originally posted by sean
nuke-have you ever run any of those lightspeed stock motors? if so,how do they stack up to monsters
hey man, I used to run for Mark, great guy, makes some very fast motors, back when I ran for him, I was running his "P2K2" version motors in sedan, they were killer, faster then any of the monsters at our track.
=MisFitz= NuKe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2004, 08:36 PM   #6036
Tech Master
=MisFitz= NuKe's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,058
Send a message via AIM to =MisFitz= NuKe Send a message via Yahoo to =MisFitz= NuKe

here, this is for you guys that are running 12th scale, and running the Ko VFS-2000 or 2000J speedo

ill get the file on here tomorrow for the computer software
Attached Images
File Type: jpg img120.jpg (113.3 KB, 197 views)
=MisFitz= NuKe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2004, 09:52 PM   #6037
Tech Regular
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 287
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)

Hey guys,

My dad just bought a CRC Carpet Knife V3.2 Team Red edition of ebay. Its gonna be his first real RC car. Hes not the greatest driver, but hey, gotta start somewhere and watching the 12th scale cars run at the local carpet track got him all interested.

I know nothing about the cars, cept that a bunch of local guys race them and they're dang fast and seem to be pretty durable. Are there any specific parts that are common breaks that we should stock up on? Any vital upgrades? What pitch gears does it run? I have a few 48 pitch pinions since I use them in my XRay but no other ones.
psbarger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 01:23 AM   #6038
Tech Adept
Vegetto's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Canberra
Posts: 156

Hey guys,

I'm thinking of getting into 1/12 but don't know anything about the kits, what's the best kit to get?

Thanks for your time guys..
Vegetto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 04:43 AM   #6039
Tech Adept
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lancashire - United Kingdom
Posts: 101
Default 12th Axle - Thrust Race conversion

Sorry Guys but I failed to borrow a camera at the weekend.

Here is a drawing of how the axle looks with the thrust race fitted
Attached Files
File Type: pdf axle thrust race conv.pdf (44.9 KB, 236 views)
Bob The Builder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 04:55 AM   #6040
Tech Adept
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lancashire - United Kingdom
Posts: 101


I have looked at the site posted by xxxgrumpxxx

The part number suggested by Thatdog
PN: F4-10G -43
is the correct size of thrust race.
Bob The Builder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 05:37 AM   #6041
Tech Adept
Jared Kirkwood's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 187
Send a message via AIM to Jared Kirkwood

Bob The Builder,

where do you get the reversed cone?
Jared Kirkwood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 06:06 AM   #6042
Tech Master
stormperson's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson

Kits... HUGE TOPIC, lol.

First thing to consider, T-bar vs. Side Links.

A t-bar car, like an AE rc12l3, or Trinity Relfex 12 uses a fiberglass plate shaped in a T, and the rear supenion pivots on that. The advantages are that it can have slightly better traction for mod, and is a little smoother. However, T-bars since they are fiberglass, can break, warp or get tweaked, the latter two wihtout you knowing, and can really make it impossible ot drive, without you knowing why. Also you have to tape in the batteries (except for the QUAD 12).

A side links car, like the Speedmerchant Rev. 3 or CRC carpet knife. The advantage is that nothing really breaks, no t-bar to mess up or tweak, the battires do not have to be taped and are held in by an o-ring (its very secure). They are also much easier for people starting out.

As far as which kits I recommend...

T-bar: IRS rug rat, Trinity Reflex 12, or the Powell Quad 12

Side Links: Speedmerchant Rev. 3

Althouh I highly recommend the Speedmerchant Rev. 3 over any t-bar car, and over its only real side link competition the CRC carpet knife.

The carpet knife does come with more annodized stuff, however the main disadvantages lay in...

The front end: The Speedmerchant uses the "old style" front end, which is very simple, doesnt break or tweak and is the best front end by far for stock. The CRC uses the dynamic strut front end, which is possibly the worst plastic parts to ever come out of AE's factory (almost all 12th scales besides trinty and corrally use and AE front end and rear pod assembly). The molds are all off, it is very difficult to properly adjust castor, it tweaks very easily, it can collapse springs very easily, and it takes forever to take the slop and binding out of parts. You can fit either front end on either car, however, its cheaper to just buy the correct parts to begin with.

Rear end: The speedmerchant uses adjustable rear links, instead of the straight links of the CRC (and it is instead adjusted at the base of the pivot uses the friction of clamping down a nut at the center of the chassis, instead of a turnbuckle at the outside on the Rev. 3). The speedmerchant's pivots freer, and is much more consistant, also it is adjustable in finer incraments.

As far as parts... All 12th scales pretty much run a AE front end and rear pod, and those are the only things you will ever need replace from breakage. So dont worry about local parts supplier (ie hobby shop).
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 06:28 AM   #6043
Tech Master
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CRC Raceway
Posts: 1,002
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)

Stormperson- I think you can get off your knees, Bruce is finished.

The side links on the back of the CRC car are a million times easier to use. You just pop them on, and it is done. Perfectly aligned. There are not adjustable because they do not have to be. Perfection does not have to be adjusted.

The front end of the CRC is not that complicated. It might be for you, but for most of the people out there, it works fine.

When purchasing a kit you need to look at everything. You really can't go wrong with any of the kits Storm mentioned. I prefer the CRC because it is a better value and the Customer Service is second to none. The speedmerchant car does not come complete, and you need to buy things just to complete the kit. With CRC, Associated, and Trinity, you just buy the kit, electronics and go racing.

Take a look at what the guys are running at the track you will be going too. See what brand of parts the hobby shop stocks. If you are new to 1/12th scale your best bet is to run what they do. It will make your life alot easier and your racing more enjoyable.
www.teamcrc.com, www.teamscreamracing.com, Outlaw RC Motorsports, KO Propo USA, www.crcraceway.com, Dumper's Speedshop, FB/FX Paint. 38.4mm>38mm, 9 degrees does not = Zero end of story. Vice-President of the F1 Pink Flame Posse
dumper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 06:48 AM   #6044
Tech Adept
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 159
Send a message via ICQ to elvo
Default Tire traction compound application

I have a Q about traction compound application, traction rolling, and traction buildup in general.

I run on a non-permanent carpet track. But since the layout had been exactly the same for 5 consecutive weeks, traction did build up yesterday.
I made the mistake of applying traction compound onto 3/4 of the width of the front tires late in the day. Which is clearly too much. As a result the car grip rolled easily. 1/8 of the width was more like it.

Now my question is: there must be some guideline as to how much traction compound to use, as the track is raced on and the day progresses. Do you vary the width, or the duration of the application?

For the record, I'm running a box-stock RC12L3, 6 cells, 12 single D5 (yee-haw!), jaco Purple/Grey. I have ordered the .020 front springs and the .075 T-bar, I need those.

Oh yes; CS Yellow traction compound (www.cs-electronic.com)is excellent. It gives more grip than Jack the Gripper or LRP Top Traction, and it's completely odorless.
elvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2004, 07:20 AM   #6045
Tech Adept
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lancashire - United Kingdom
Posts: 101

Jared Kirkwood

where do you get the reversed cone?
Use the standard kit part from the RC12L3 and turn it around.

Don't forget to file off the thin lip which locates the spring washer first.
Bob The Builder is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:00 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net