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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-07-2004, 09:39 AM   #6001
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sean-- The Quantum sport is great for stock as long as its not the one with reverse. the the guy who was TQ in stock at the last CRL race uses one.
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Old 01-07-2004, 10:03 AM   #6002
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no reverse, just the standard forward/brake quantum sport. will those "worlds" capaciters do anything for stock racing? again, i dont know if i would really need or notice it because i mostly want to race purley for fun, i dont really plan on competing for points or anything. BTW what is so bad about the reverse speedo? i know you cant use it for compitition,but does it hinder performance?
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Old 01-07-2004, 11:22 AM   #6003
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The "worlds" kit dosen't help much for 1/12 in gereral. The reverse does cause you to loose a little performence but not much though.
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Old 01-07-2004, 05:46 PM   #6004
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are there any good web links with 1/12 racing video clips and or pictures of cars and set ups?BTW what kind of bodies are you guys running? i ordered a parma speed 8
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Old 01-08-2004, 06:02 AM   #6005
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Default Calandra 3.2 diff

What's the verdict on how well the new large diameter diff works on the Calandra 3.2.

Is it worth putting it on a 3.1 or is there very little difference ?

My 3.1 diff seems to live quite a long time between rebuilds now that I have engineered a proper thrust race in to it to take the side load normally placed on the outer bearing.
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Old 01-08-2004, 06:28 AM   #6006
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The diff that comes with the 3.2 uses 12 diff balls instead of 6 or 8, so it does last longer, but if you are happy, dont worry about it.
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Old 01-08-2004, 06:55 AM   #6007
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How many balls you use depends on which spur gear you are using. If Kimbrough, then yes you will use 12 balls. The kit comes with Du-Mor gears and they still use 8 balls even in the outer holes.

The reason using the outer holes is better, is that it gives the balls much more mechanical advantage. Moving the balls out in the gear makes them grab the rings better even with less tension on the diff nut. This in turn - A) makes the diff last longer, and B) makes the diff spin smoother and freer.

The small ring diff works very well too. As stormperson said, If you are happy with your current set up, then don't worry about it. Spending $45.00 to "fix" something you are happy with, may not be worth it. On the other hand, if you decide to get the large ring diff, I'm certain that you won't be disappointed.

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Old 01-08-2004, 07:49 AM   #6008
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stormperson , johnnywhopper

Thanks guys - I'll run what I have until I break it.

Then look at the 3.2 diff.
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Old 01-08-2004, 07:59 AM   #6009
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Bob would you mind sharing how you improved the thrust bearing to take the burden of the side loads? I'm interested because before I switched to the rc4less ceramic bearings I ate the outside hub bearing constantly.... um, of course it was because they were all defective since I NEVER hit boards or anything unless I'm hacked... oh, and I NEVER hit anyone else's car; they always hit me!!!
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:14 AM   #6010
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BigDogRacing

Quote:
Bob would you mind sharing how you improved the thrust bearing to take the burden of the side loads?
I found a local supplier of bearings and bought a thrust race which has 4mm ID, 10mm OD and is 4mm thick. Cost was 5
( $ 8.40 )

Next file off the little lip on the cone which locates the spring washer.

Put the cone on the axle reversed ( large end to the bearing ) which will put load on to the outer race and not the inner race.

Put the thust race on the axle and follow it with the spring washer

Then use a narrow TC3 alloy wheel nut ( Trinity supply ) to fasten it all together.

Because the 10mm dia thrust race is smaller than the hole in the wheel the wheels still go on and off as normal without stripping the diff.

Diff is now really free, The spur can not be made to slip with your thumb and lasts for 4 meetings without any maintenance.

Thrust rece has been on the car for appx 12 months now and just needs a clean each month.
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:38 AM   #6011
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Very nice Bob! To be honest I have never thought much about the load that is put on the outer hub bearing- it's ridiculous to put a opposing vertical load on a bearing made to handle side loads ONLY!!! No wonder those bearings eat themselves constantly!!

So you simply purchased a 4x10x4 thrust bearing and installed it with the cone reversed to carry the load straight to the outer hub bearing and housing. Nice. Obviously you had a minimom amount of threads for the axle nut; I wonder if a shorter cone washer would help or even milling a little off the original washer?

I'm calling Memphis bearing supply right now!!! LOL

Bob is your thrust bearing the kind that is prebuilt like the Tamiya diff thrust bearing or is it seperate pieces?
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:48 AM   #6012
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Bob my local bearing supply doesn't show anything smaller than 4mm ID- could you find the brand name and or the application of the bearing you have? THANKS!!
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:49 AM   #6013
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BigDogRacing

The thrust race is pre-built - It has two grooved plates and the balls are in a brass cage.

You can't thin the cone down any further because the thrust race will touch the main axle ( It sits over the threaded part when assembled ) Using a 3.1 axle or an IRS axle there is about 1/8" of thread showing past the thin nyloc nut when assembled.

Never had one come loose on any axle yet and I have converted over 20 axles for friends.
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Old 01-08-2004, 08:57 AM   #6014
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BigDogRacing

Have a look at this site -

http://www.ball-bearings.biz/uk/cata....php?subtype=8

This is where I got the thrust bearings
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Old 01-08-2004, 11:31 AM   #6015
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bob
,
can you post a pic of your axle upgrade

casey
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