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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-05-2004, 06:28 PM   #5971
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Default Front Caster

I'm checking my new style AE front end and have too much cater on the left side with both shims in the front. Is placing a shim under the rear part of the lower arm OK for taking caster out?

Jeff

p.s. I'm looking for a CRC 3.2 lower pod also!
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:45 PM   #5972
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rollover- The silver ones should be fine, if they arent a different height. I would stand the two side by side (if possible) and see if the height is any different, if so, you cant run half and half since you would really mess up the roll centers.

And for adjusting castor on the strut... use a RPM camber guage to check it, and then adjust accordingly, very rarely with the shims be equal left and right for equal castor.
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:19 PM   #5973
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
bob- Defenently! lol. You might collapse a spring every once and a while, but thats normal on any 12th scale. I can hit walls and it really doesnt mess the car up nearly as much as it would with a new style, and its much simpler.

I'd trust Storm here. I took his advice at the track this weekend and slapped the old front end on my rev 3 and the car was much easier to drive, and my new style front end is probably built as perfect as you can (but I did have a bad servo saver that was causing all sorts of strange problems). If I run the new style, I literally have to check the camber and shim angles after every run. It tweaks very easily. Its a straight bolt-on, uses the same holes and same servo holes.

Speedmerchant sells a full front-end kit for like $20. I think you can get it at their website or hobbyetc.com.

Also, the rev 3 is near bulletproof. The only thing I have ever broken (yet!) on this car is one front a-arm, and a few Jaco wheels. I hit more than my share of walls... Storm can attest to that!

Last edited by spyderx; 01-05-2004 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:24 PM   #5974
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Question for David Lee
Quote:
Dave-I dont know when your coming back to the Gate-so I need to ask you this here. To run the IRS front end on my Speedmerchant Rev.3, do I need to run the servo up on mounts (at an angle) or flat? Do you have a pic of that front end on your old Rev3?

Btw-your Rugrat looked awesome in the Main.

Thanks for your compliments, Ray. I have a lot of confidence in the car. I fiddled with motors during the qualifiers and made the 8 minutes for the first time with the 8 turn. Ran the 9 in the main and was standing on it from the horn.

Now about that suspension. I have it on the Rugrat the same as I ran it on the REV3. I am using the 10 deg reactive option with one caster shim in the rear. I was using .020 front springs with dampning on the king pin. The IRS pivots and king pin are the best. They respond well to the dampning greases.

Regarding the servo, I have it both ways. I used the angled mount on the modified car and lay the servo flat on the stock car. They respond differently and I haven't been able to describe it. But the mod setup has a tighter radius and is quciker. I use a 5 cell receiver pack that speeds up the servo and the pivot on the servo saver is at the maximum distance from the center. That also speeds up the steering. Funny thing is that I like less steering expo with the mod stuff I just described than the stock system. My feeling right now is the angled servo mount will be the best, but you need to try both and determine that for yourself.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:34 PM   #5975
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geek


If this was patented a year ago.. is it available?
Does it fit on a CRC 3.2?

Just recieved an e-mail from speedmerchant and there reply was this is not yet available because of machine shop vendor problems but will hopefully be available to public in spring.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:49 PM   #5976
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I like the look of that front end, looks like it would be very strong as well...
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Old 01-06-2004, 12:01 AM   #5977
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So... I'm considering getting back into RC racing, I've been out of it for over 10 years. I had assumed I would need all new stuff, but the actuall cars don't seem to have changed as much as I might have thought. I believe my father still has a 12LW, and I have a 12L, an old Corally car (I believe it was their first 1/12th scale car), and a Trinity Evolution12 or maybe it was Revolver12 (still in the box and unassembled), would these cars still be feasable in competition today?

What about my electronics and such, will any of that still cut it? Futaba Magnun radio with the micro high speed servo, a high end Novak ESC from the time, Turbocharger, and a ton of other crap that I can't remember... I even still have some old TRC green dots in the packages (I bet they're a little dried out ), and I'm guessing the battery technology has changed quite a bit. At least I hope so, getting nice matched packs back then was a lesson in futility. IIRC Panasonic 1700 cells were the most common and sanyo (who ruled for years it seemed) had just come out with some new cells to compete with the panasonics.

Thanks for any help,
Ike
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Old 01-06-2004, 05:49 AM   #5978
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Default I need some tires

What is a good site to buy 1/12 tires for a reasonable. cheap price?
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Old 01-06-2004, 06:43 AM   #5979
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I dont have much time now, so just a few quick things

Spyderx- I attest! lol, and his car was alot better.

The v-force is by far the most adjustable front end out there, it will be worth the wait.

Bigtbone- Tower hobbies has Jaco's, which I wouldnt recommend, anyplace with TRC's, and they are all around $20 a pair. stormerhobbies.com I think has a good stock.
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Old 01-06-2004, 06:45 AM   #5980
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Default Re: I need some tires

You can also try KT Hobbies or SpeedtechRC I believe they are both advertisers here. I think the TRC 1/12th tires are about $15/pair there. That's a good deal.

Quote:
Originally posted by Bigtbone
What is a good site to buy 1/12 tires for a reasonable. cheap price?
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Old 01-06-2004, 07:55 AM   #5981
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Thanks, ...
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Old 01-06-2004, 08:08 AM   #5982
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DavidL-I am not running 12th till after the Snowbirds (I am running Sedan only there to support Warpspeed Racing), so this gives me all the time to build up this front end on one of my two Rev.3's.

I know from watching Chicky running the Reactive AE front end he has more high speed steering than I do. OR should I say-he can achive high speed steering easier than I can. To turn with his car I have to run dbl pink front or turn in earlier with more steering input. That ultimately just leads me to crashing more!!

Thanks for the help,
Ray
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Old 01-06-2004, 10:16 AM   #5983
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ike
So... I'm considering getting back into RC racing, I've been out of it for over 10 years. I had assumed I would need all new stuff, but the actuall cars don't seem to have changed as much as I might have thought. I believe my father still has a 12LW, and I have a 12L, an old Corally car (I believe it was their first 1/12th scale car), and a Trinity Evolution12 or maybe it was Revolver12 (still in the box and unassembled), would these cars still be feasable in competition today?

What about my electronics and such, will any of that still cut it? Futaba Magnun radio with the micro high speed servo, a high end Novak ESC from the time, Turbocharger, and a ton of other crap that I can't remember... I even still have some old TRC green dots in the packages (I bet they're a little dried out ), and I'm guessing the battery technology has changed quite a bit. At least I hope so, getting nice matched packs back then was a lesson in futility. IIRC Panasonic 1700 cells were the most common and sanyo (who ruled for years it seemed) had just come out with some new cells to compete with the panasonics.

Thanks for any help,
Ike
Ike, this all depends on the level you plan on racing at. If it's just the club/local level, you cars will be fine as long as they are well set-up. The LW or Revolver would be the best, IMO (I'm not sure how the parts availability would be for the revolver, though). As far as electonics, the same goes...except maybe batteries, as the technology has gone through the roof. They now make 3300's, and they can't use the old style chargers as they are not NiCD's. I just had to go through this, myself, but I was only out of 12th scale racing since 1997 or so (ran other stuff in between, here and there).
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Old 01-06-2004, 11:13 AM   #5984
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson


The v-force is by far the most adjustable front end out there, it will be worth the wait.

Sorry, Storm, but I am going to disagree. This suspension does not have adjustment to camber gain. It also does not have adjustment to roll center. You can adjust camber, caster, springs, ride height, and that is about it.

Don't forget that I ran this suspension in development. It pushed like a dump truck out of the box. I suggested the in-line front axles to get it to enter the corner better. That helped, but didn't solve the overall problem. It has too much camber gain when the outside wheel is under the load of a turn. That disrupts the tire patch and there isn't enough traction to turn the car.

Another point is that the spring position is at a location where the K-factor of the available springs does not support the car. The ratio is 1.75 to 1. And since the springs are too soft, that means more chassis dip to the outside and more camber gain that upsets the wheel patch.

Bottom line is that more development is required.
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Old 01-06-2004, 12:08 PM   #5985
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DavidL- I remember you Eric and Bruce having a fun time last year with that,lol. I got the chance to try one out at the end of last season, and agree with you about the development, however with a few changes it could be extremely adjustable, and you can adjust droop too in the version i tried.
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