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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 01-04-2004, 07:57 AM   #5941
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:26 PM   #5942
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ferget it.. found their website

Last edited by Geek; 01-04-2004 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 01-04-2004, 06:34 PM   #5943
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Hey Everyone,

I'm new to 1/12, and having a blast. Recently I was looking through my car to notice there was a little more bump steer that I like to have in my cars. Is there any quick fix to this? I have a Hyperdrive 1/12 on road car (based of an RC12L3). I but the servo flat on the chassis so the links are fairly striaght. Any info would be great. Thanks.

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Old 01-04-2004, 07:25 PM   #5944
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Moving the servo forward affects akerman. Having the links flat affects bump steer. A lot of guys are running the servo flat on the chassis with the new front ends. The links that connect the servo saver to the hub carriers should be flat horizonal. If you mount the servo at an angle, this is harder to do, but the geometry seems to be right that way anyway.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:38 PM   #5945
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Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
I ended up getting the regular carbon, saved me about 20 bucks, PLUS I was able to run it today
That's cool, is it any stiffer than the blue chassis do you know?
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Old 01-04-2004, 08:06 PM   #5946
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Anybody know where I can get some caster shims or wedges for the old school front end? Even a part number would be helpful also. Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2004, 11:07 PM   #5947
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call Calandra they have them or got to www.teamcrc.com and buy them there
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:47 AM   #5948
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Originally posted by Tres
xxxgrumpxxx: some of the Cobra arbors will work.
The ones for the bigger AC model.

Tres, Do you have a link or part number? Thanks Phil
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:55 AM   #5949
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Default old skool vs. Dynamic front

What are the diferences of running old skool front end verses dynamic front end? I know of the 12 regulars we have there are 3 who switched to the old. What are the advantages or disadvantages. I have the CRC 3.2 and took it out for the first time sat. I was run into pipe and car was undriveable. (broke rear pod plate) I was done for evening. Then the guy next to me broke his also. Is This a common problem and Is the an easy fix beside puchasing more plates. Thanks Phil
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Old 01-05-2004, 02:53 AM   #5950
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Default Not a problem

I have broken one rear plate. I hit hard enough that some thing had to break. I found checking all screws once a week helps keep from breaking things too. Two weeks ago I hit a board hard enough to break my rear wheel and bend the left clamp on hub. Gotta love those graphite axles!

I use steel countersunk Allan head screws in my chasis.

Old school and new front ends are discussed here a lot. Basicly the old one is more solid, cheaper lighter, and simpler. I run the new one right now, but might try the old one too. New front end is supposed to have more steering IN the corner. Maybe a little more agressive.

Welcome to 1/12th!

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Old 01-05-2004, 03:52 AM   #5951
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Old new New style front end...

The old style is simplier, lighter and slightly less adjustable, you can still adjust castor, camber, toe, and springs, where as the new style you can also adjust reactive castor and camber in finer amounts (its a turnbuckle instead of a shim).

The new style does provide for slightly more steering but it is really hard and takes alot of time to build one correctly. Everything binds and you cant assume that because you place the castor shims the same on each side that the castor is actually the same, since the molds are off, you sometimes have to put 2 shims behind the arm and one shim behind and one shim infront to have equal castor on both sides, and it can change race to race depending if you hit something... Its really just a pain, and its very easy to have the car start handling really poorly because of the front end, but alot of people dont realize that its the front end making the car handle poorly, not something else.

I have tried both and run the old style front end for both mod and stock.
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Old 01-05-2004, 04:59 AM   #5952
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Can someone post a pic of the old skool front end please.

I have tried looking back through the thread but must have missed it.

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Old 01-05-2004, 05:21 AM   #5953
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The speedmerchant REV 3 comes with the old style front end. You can see the pic on thier site. www.teamspeedmerchant.com

I personally like the adjustments of the new style. You can also adjust roll center and everythin is a finer adjustment like mentioned before.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:23 AM   #5954
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here it is
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:38 AM   #5955
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Thanks guy's - I just wondered what the old skool front end looked like and how well it worked and survived visits to the track markers.

The local track is very unforgiving of those without superstar thumbs ( yes - we use stick radio's in the UK ).

My 12L3 handles wierd after what feels like a minor tap.

Do you think the old skool front end is more average driver proof ?
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