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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-30-2003, 06:27 AM   #5896
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Originally posted by rattlr2
does anybody have pictures of quad 12. besides what on website
a complete car and also anybody run one yet
SpeedXL has posted pics of his Quad12 on here several times, just go back some pages or search this forum under his username.

I also run the car and so does BobbyZ.
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Old 12-30-2003, 11:19 AM   #5897
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Default RX battery pack and Keyence ESC

Has anyone been able to get the RX battery pack to work with a Keyence V Extreme ESC? If so, how?

A friend and myself can't seem to get it working. I plug the RX battery in to the B/C slot on the reciever and leave the ESC plugged in with the switch off. The ESC comes on, but does not work with the radio.

The only way it works is if I plug in the RX battery pack and turn the ESC switch ON. But, I was told not to turn the ESC on when the RX pack is plugged in.

I've seen it work with the Quantum 2 ESC and others, but this Keyence doesn't want to work for some reason.

Any ideas???
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Old 12-30-2003, 12:48 PM   #5898
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Default Powell Quad-12

i believe DPowell sells the QUAD12 (no tape ver) kit in BG for $90 and SSG for $100.

he will also makes the Q12 in a tape version if you prefer.

i have one of each.

if you have a CRC 6-pack....all you really need is the Q12 bottom plates and battery retention sys for the no tape ver. if you stay with the 6-PK or T-Fource top cross plate, you have the additional tuning option of using the side springs for tweak or just the standard t-bar screws or a combo of both

also if you have a CK or SM and want to try a T-bar car.....you would just get a t-bar & pivots and a full Q12 kit

in fact some guys here use the Q12 bottom plates only and stick with the 12L3 puck/dampner disk system on top

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 12-30-2003 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 12-30-2003, 02:17 PM   #5899
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Demetris taylor-

try taking the Speedo RED wire out of the plug, and then just plug in the rx opacjk and turn it on... sorted.

if the speedo doesnt work like above, then turn it on too.... there's no way of it getting its power with getting it from the rx pack if the RED wire is diconnected from the plug.

i have to turn both switches on with my robitonic spirit+ speedo too.
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Old 12-30-2003, 02:24 PM   #5900
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With the Keyence, remove the red esc/reciever wire from the plug, then turn on both esc and rec pack. I know this method works, as i know someone who has run it like that.

btw, that might be what Mr Rice said, i just couldn't understand his post!!
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Old 12-30-2003, 02:33 PM   #5901
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oh thanks, that answered my question, although you may not have intended it that way , oh well, I have a Ko speedo on the way for the car.
thanks though
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:11 PM   #5902
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Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
I have a Ko speedo on the way for the car.
Let me know when you get it. I have a sweet setup for stock that rips. I'm still working on one for mod.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:41 PM   #5903
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Default Quad 12

Here is a pic of my Quad 12 that I finished on the weekend. Some work is still needed on electronics placement and a transponder mount.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg quad 12 (top).jpg (176.4 KB, 210 views)
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:53 PM   #5904
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BobbyZ and all Quad12 owners,
As a finishing touch for your Q12, try using a cut down AE long body clip(#1744) for the battery hold down. This allows you to use 1 clip for both posts. The downside is that the blue clear coat on the clips doesn't last long.

**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:59 PM   #5905
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the quad looks nice. Doug was really helpful answering my question and I will most likely get one for my six pack (don't really like the t fource conversion cuz u have to constantly screw and unscrew the plates to change packs). I just bought a brushless for my car so I'll have to wait at least a week or my wife will kill me.

One question, do the batteries fit snuggly or do u guys put something (like foam tape) on the bar to hold them.
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Old 12-30-2003, 07:59 PM   #5906
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Looks good Bobby. Send me an email if you need help with setup. The car likes to turn hard that I can say for sure.
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:05 PM   #5907
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I tried that but the pin won't go through without scratching the surface on the battery strap. I think with the extra layer of shrink wrap I have on my batteries it is making it a tight fit. I have to use pliers to get the pin supplied in the kit in and out. The very thin Associated body clips slide in and out with no problem but the blue coating on the long body clips looks to make them a bit too big. I did file the slots on the chassis as well and the cells are level with the bottom of the chassis.

I considered enlarging the holes a bit in the aluminum posts. Any other suggestions?
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:10 PM   #5908
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Our track is rather high bite so I am running a modified dynamic strut front end with the longer upper arms. It really helps smooth out the steering on the car. If anything my car pushed a bit on the first run. A stiffer shock setting and installing the 3rd screw in the t-plate helped quite a bit. I'm going to try some thicker lube in the dampening tubes this weekend.

Here is my setup


0.20" springs with green slime on kingpins
long front arms
stock castor
-1 deg. camber
no toe in or out
4 mm ride height


40 wt oil with silver spring
0.075" t-plate with 3 screws
losi light hydra fluid in dampening tubes
4 mm ride height

TRC purple fronts with 1/3 sauce (JTG)
TRC grey rears with 7/8 sauce (JTG)

small amount of exponential and -20% steering curve

Chameleon 2 geared 28/100 on 47 mm rears.
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:11 PM   #5909
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You can get the long clips in silver they are just harder to find. They fit much better.
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:19 PM   #5910
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Bobby--We have a very high bite track


Dynamic Front w/short upper arms
1.5 camber 4 caster 0 Toe
.020 springs w/pruple stuff on kingpins


Sliver spring w/30wt oil
Spring steel plate w/3 screws
corally red in tubes

T.M. Purple and Grey tires full dope on rear and 1/2 front

CEFX body
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