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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-29-2003, 12:15 PM   #5866
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JCB- thanks man, but as I was registering they ran out, lol, oh well, went ahead and ordered the black one.
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:00 PM   #5867
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Hey Mike,

You got to be kidding me oh well at least I think you saved a few bucks with the black kit. Let me know what you think of the car. I'm currenlty running the RC12L3. Not sure if it's time to switch. The car still works good.

Speak to you later,
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:10 PM   #5868
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I learned the Binary overgear faux pas this weekend. I was running the same gearing as a Green Machine Pro and the car didn't have any thing to offer (sure it was quick the last 20 feet of the 100 foot straight).

I dropped two teeth and the car was MUCH faster somehow pushing me into a 1st in the main . Yee haw.
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:14 PM   #5869
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Default Re: Wheel dots FS

Originally posted by ApexSpeed
Hey guys, I have a spare roll of 1.5" diameter white wheel dots to cover up any of those ugly wheels
Back in the early 90's up in Canada, one of our club members worked for STANLEY where they manufactured tape measures. It turns out those circular "stanley" stickers they stick in the center of the tape measure were perfect size for 1/12th wheel dots.

There were a bunch of us sportin' stanley colors
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:17 PM   #5870
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Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
so really can you go to page 115?
See the URL for the page you are on right now?
the last part says something like

change that to 115 and yer there.

Sorry 'bout yer luck to the guy who clicked the previous button 80+ times
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:37 PM   #5871
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Default Quad 12

To all of you looking to upgrade your 12L3 or your Yokomo car look no further than the Quad 12. I had the oppurtunity to run my newly assembled car this weekend and the Quad 12 has to be one of the smoothest running cars I have ever had the pleasure to drive.

I had the chance to pick up the Quad 12 conversion at the beginning of the indoor season and opted to try a mono-ball car first. I was truly disappointed with the mono-ball feel and knew that a t-plate car was what I liked to drive. So I built my Quad 12 yesterday at the track and finished 2nd place overall in a fairly competitive 1/12th scale 19 turn class with only one qualifier under my belt with this car on a layout I didn't get a chance to practise on. I was even turning lap times consistent with the winner and even .1 or .2 second lap faster near the end of the race.

I strongly recommend that you check out this chassis. The quailty of the graphite is amazing. It is extremely rigid and appears to be of a better quality then some of the plate chassis I have seen in some kits. Check it out - www.powellracingcomponents.com


Bob Zahn
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:41 PM   #5872
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Default Quad 12

I have been driving for Doug since the start of the carpet season and I have driven every 1/12 out there and have yet to find a chassis that carries as much corner speed as this one. A big improvment of the flexible 12l3 or Yok.
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:48 PM   #5873
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Hi, just wondering if any of you could help.

I have an sb2002, and ive found with the stock rear axle spacing if i use some of the rear ride height blocks the left tyre fouls the lower pod plate. someone on another forum suggested i shim the axle out to maximum width (6.75"?) at the moment its around 6.65". I saw josh cyrul had flipped the left hub over which would help increase the width, but do any of you know what shims id need on both sides of the axle?

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Old 12-29-2003, 02:08 PM   #5874
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Originally posted by skibum989

I'm running no shims, just bearing, wheel, bearing, e-clip, in that order. I'm using the new Jaco's on the white rims (If that means anything)

Well there could be a couple of things like make sure the bearings are fully seated in the rims. make sure that the axle isn't pushed into the steering block. jus pull on the axel to check this the chech on the backside of the steering block and make sure the e clip is pulled against the block. if these things are all ok then you got a bad set of axles that are to short. get the associated titanium ones .
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Old 12-29-2003, 02:37 PM   #5875
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Yeah, I've made sure that the bearings in the wheels are fully seated and that the inside axle ends (where the inner e-clip is) are right up on the steering blocks. Bummer, this is lame. Guess I'll have to get some more axles, maybe some of the BLUE Yokomo axles that use nuts instead of the dumb e-clips
Ryan Robison

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Old 12-29-2003, 03:25 PM   #5876
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Can anyone tell me what Speedmerchants latest and greatest 12th scale car is? I am looking to get out of my Six Pack and try something else!
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Old 12-29-2003, 03:31 PM   #5877
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The Rev. 3 is the car that everyone is using, and is the latest and greatest! lol. You will not be dispointed.
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
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Old 12-29-2003, 06:23 PM   #5878
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Hmm the Quad 12 looks very interesting. Had I seen this first, I would have gotten one for my Yok. I especially like how they extended the upper pod plate to accept the Yok side plates. Not like the IRS where I had to buy another pod to use their upper pod plate. How much was the conversion?

Anyways, I'm very happy with my RugRat. But now I know another solution if anyone is looking for a conversion for their Yok or L3.
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Old 12-29-2003, 06:29 PM   #5879
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The quad 12 does look very nice, I like the battery strap they have, makes changing batts much easier.
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Old 12-29-2003, 06:34 PM   #5880
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Originally posted by skibum989
Yeah, I've made sure that the bearings in the wheels are fully seated and that the inside axle ends (where the inner e-clip is) are right up on the steering blocks. Bummer, this is lame. Guess I'll have to get some more axles, maybe some of the BLUE Yokomo axles that use nuts instead of the dumb e-clips
as long as the yok ones aren't in line ones you are all set. I tnink crc trinity and speedmerchant selll axles with nuts
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