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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2002, 01:02 AM   #571
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dave,
so you dope the whole magenta front when you run mod on carpet? Did you look in the new car action they have the Pro DRivers thing on Josh Cyrul and it has his setup in there. I see what you mean now about putting the servo on the chassis. If I dont get it centered(you just use servo tape right?)will that effect the steering at all?
IKE
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Old 02-22-2002, 01:05 AM   #572
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Foams- Preferred Traction Compound and it IS STILL VERY MUCH LEGAL is Paragon. I have never heard that it pulls up the glue that holds down our carpet. TQ products are the second best alternative that I have tried although I am hearing good comments about the Corrally Jack the Gripper stuff and the new CS stuff as well. At big races I am down to 8 min on with 15min off for Paragon but for club races I'm now at 15min on and 5min off. TQ stuff is double for these values and you don't get as much traction. You also don't get as much consistency with the car's response as you do with Paragon. Paragon just makes the car HANDLE better and more consistently than anything else thus far. TQ 8+ and TQ Mod are the second best and do an admirable job. If you run at a track that allows Paragon, and many still do, then run Paragon but if you have to use something other than Paragon then use the TQ 8+ or Mod stuff and double my figures for paragon.
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Old 02-22-2002, 01:12 AM   #573
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Foams- Didn't realize you were online. If you don't get the steering servo centered you will have the equivelant of a tweaked car because the throw will be longer one way than the other. I actually used an Assoc. lightweight body post and cut the side down and mounted that to the chassis using the original servo hole. With the JR Z3550 servo if you shave the side of the post so that the servo goes as far to the right as possible than yo get a centered servo. Then I use a layer of servo tape on the bottome of the servo to help the one post mount out. So it's a combination of 1servo post made from an Assoc. body post and servo tape. I used this setup (the TC3 servo post work to, you just cut them down to proper height) and servo tape. You will also have to space the ball studs on the steering blocks up to lessen the amount of bumpsteer.
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Old 02-22-2002, 03:29 AM   #574
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Dave,
Thanx for all the great tips!!!!! once again the servo one flew over my head What are the drawbacks going to be if I use the provided servo mount? Is there any hand fitting of the Asc. T-bar(thick) onto the trinity chassis plate?
IKE
P.S.I still havent found an online place to get the car, but I looked at horizons stock the other day and they have them in Illinois so I will just order from my LHS and be done with it.
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Old 02-22-2002, 07:50 AM   #575
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Darnold.....what do you mean when you say 15 min. on 5 min. off?????I've never heard those terms before....sorry....1/12 newbie.
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Old 02-22-2002, 08:30 AM   #576
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Dragon, he means let the dope sit on your tires for 15min., then wipe it off 5min. before you run. If you watch me, this is what I do most of the time at Shreve. See ya Sun.!
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Old 02-22-2002, 12:12 PM   #577
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Foams- I have tried to draw some of this out with MS Draw and attach it to this post, it should give you an idea of what I am talking about with these directions. You know the plastic servo mount for the TC3? It has a hole in the bottom of it so that a screw from the underneath of the chassis goes into it and then you put the servo arm against it and screw in a screw to hold the servo. If you have followed thus far I did the same thing using the stock hole on the right side of the car (when viewed from the top side of the car). Now you may notice that the servo won't be centered and needs to be moved over a little to the right for it to be centered. Shave down with a dremel some of the plastic of the servo mount (on its left side when looking down from the top of the chassis) and this will allow the servo to be moved over some more to the right to center it. Once you have this done then put a strip of servo tape underneath the servo and slide it on the servo post and stick it down to the chassis. Then just tighten the screw to the servo post so that the servo is secure.
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Old 02-22-2002, 01:50 PM   #578
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dave,
so you are only using a single TC3 servo mount?
IKE
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Old 02-22-2002, 09:20 PM   #579
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Foams- Yep. Just screw it in on the right side and put your servo next to it as if you were going to screw it to the mount and see if it is centered. If not then you will need to grind off some of the plastic next to the servo so that the servo moves over towards the right some more. Hope this is making sense, I tried to draw some pic's using MS Paint but my touch pad is a little poor for that and I don't have a seriel mouse with me to plug in and use through the keyboard. How's your racing been?
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Old 02-22-2002, 10:49 PM   #580
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hmmmmmmmm, I think I understand now. What was the drawback to using the regular servo mount? The racing up here is mostly dead for off-road so that is why I re-kindled my desire for on-road. The 1/12 class is non-existant but hopefully when I start bringing my 1/12(if I can figure out how to build it )to all of our TC races the guys that used to race 1/12 will start bringing theirs again. After 9/11 the racing really died up here, it is just now starting to pick up again.

On another note, I also found out today that the morons that laid the OZITE at our track(stoopid carpet guys) GLUED the carpet down upside down and on top of that the building is being leased so we cant bolt the Ozite down. How will this affect the setups that you gave me? Am I going to need to run different tires? I talked to one of the guys that used to run 1/12 and he said that it is basically the same surface but it is more abrasive.

IKE
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Old 02-22-2002, 10:54 PM   #581
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I think this is what you are trying to say with the servo mount thingie. Forgive the lamo drawing it is all I had the patience for. I know the servo isnt centered but this is just to get the jist of what you are saying. Did I get the mount on the correct side or did you want it on the other side of the servo?
IKE
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File Type: jpg servo mount.jpg (7.4 KB, 179 views)
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Old 02-23-2002, 04:04 AM   #582
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Foams- Everything is perfect except you're right, it's on the other side. I think the drawing looks good and wish I could do as well btw. Concerning the revitalization of 12th scale up there I wouldn't sweat it. What we have noticed almost everywhere we go is that all it takes is one person who is willing to run their car consistently a couple of times in practice or between a few rounds of qualifiying during the breaks and people start Ohhh-Ahhh- "What is that and how much does it cost, that thing is rocketship fast...". Once they find out how inexpensive they are to buy and maintain then people start getting them. But, the biggest key is that one faithful person who will do it week in and week out regardless of all of the complaining and putdowns. Hopefully this encourages you to be that one person there.-Dave
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Old 02-23-2002, 04:08 AM   #583
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Foams- The Ozite being upside down shouldn't matter much to your setup I would think. It may give a little less traction or as said a little more tire wear which should translate into a little more traction. Any thing else I can help or give advise on please don't hesitate to ask (and this goes for anyone else too).-Dave Arnold (what am I doing up at this hour???)LOL
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Old 02-23-2002, 07:51 AM   #584
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We got our Ozite about 2 months ago...the first time it was laid down, they put the glued side up...absolutely "0" traction...we have to roll our track up every week

People seem to make fun of the 1/12.....why? i dont know.....and then i look at the lap times and 1/12 is faster than sedan.....so i make fun of them

That new Trinity car looks sweet Anybody know what tires it comes with?

Darnold....go to bed.
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Old 02-23-2002, 10:43 AM   #585
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DragonS- WoW! If Foams really doesn't have any traction then he will have to ues Pink Dots in the rear. I've run on some of the new ozite with the rubberize back coating, this new stuff gives maaddd traction. Stuff black grooves really quick but this doesn't sound like that stuff. I think it's going to depend upon what variant Foams is really racing on. Concerning people making fun of 12th scale but you hit a topic! To be honest most people tell me that they want to race whatever is most popular. And unfortunately they think everyone else should be the same it seems. They don't realize that they have the "herd" mentality. Often the result seems to be a lack of critical analysis skills and good ole' guts to do what they think is right and stick to it regardless it seems. When public opinion says right is point "A" then they go there and when it switches to point "B" then they switch with it. more....
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