R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-25-2003, 08:36 AM   #5761
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: springfield, ma.
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tnt2671
Default conversions

i just got a rugrat chassis conversion and the previous poster was right if you go out and piece everything together new your gonna have a s#$%load of cash into the thing. what i did was scoop up a friend of mines red 6 pack(just a roller) for cheap money and stripped it down to build the rugrat. 12 l3 and crc cars are really easy to find used at a decent price
tnt2671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 09:12 AM   #5762
Tech Elite
 
JusBox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central VA
Posts: 2,170
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: Trinity BLOWS!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Back in July I ordered a new SB chassis from Trinity. I got a notice saying that it was on back order. I decided to switch to Speedmerchant and called Trinity to cancel the order. I just got an email from Trinity today saying that my SB chassis is shippind and that my credit card was billed. What kind of B.S. company does chit like this. Now I have to call those renobs and try to deal with them. In case you can't tell I HATE TRINITY!!!!!!!!!!!!
Xray did the same thing to me. I placed an order, it was all back-ordered so I cancelled it. They confirmed the cancellation and then shipped all the sh*t anyway. I think serpent has some real tards working for them.
JusBox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 09:24 AM   #5763
Tech Elite
 
lem2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: OC
Posts: 3,061
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default conversion

I got my 12L3 for around $149 at ultimate.
Then when I got here in manila, I bought the CRC stuff, lowered pods, damper tubes and top plate which was almost the price of the kit.

Then, i got an aftermarket chassis to change the battery position on the 12L3, but find it to flexyyyyyyy which made tuning very hard. So what I did, took out the dremel and cut away my stock AE Chassis, sanded it and CA it to the aftermarket chassis to make it stiffer!!!

So I think buying the whole car kit is well worth it than buying it piece by piece!!

Merry Christmas!!
lem2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 11:59 AM   #5764
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JCB
Randman,

They will allow you to run smaller tires in the rear. Much lower than you would be able to run with the stock ones. In the long run you will save money on tires
They dont include the rear axle height spacers anymore?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 12:26 PM   #5765
Tech Champion
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,952
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
They dont include the rear axle height spacers anymore?
even with the lowest axle spacers you can't go really low with regular pod plates, with the lowered pod plates you can run the tires until the foam is completely worn off if you want to
__________________
Official member of The Guild of Calamitous Intent and proud supporter of Conjectural Technologies.
Serpent S411 LE kit #192
RCTech #361
Matt Howard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 01:02 PM   #5766
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
even with the lowest axle spacers you can't go really low with regular pod plates, with the lowered pod plates you can run the tires until the foam is completely worn off if you want to
So what is the advantage of truing the tires that small?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 01:06 PM   #5767
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: derbyshire, UK
Posts: 82
Default

randman- there isnt! when you run and run foam tires, after time they get smaller and smaller... with the lowered plates you can run them REALLY small to save money, but your car will handle like crap with such small tires
rice98w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 02:21 PM   #5768
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,343
Default

Rand, I've seen the Shooters chassis online. But I'm not sure how thick it is. My Yok's SSG chassis is 2mm thick. Yok also sells a 1.9mm and 2.1mm chassis. I think I saw them on R10. The 12L3 is about 2.2mm. Go for the Yok if you really like it. It handles good. And can be made to handle better with a few hopups. Only thing about my carpet setup on the Yok was I ran Tamiya front springs. And I have NO clue what rate they are!

Anyways, I have pics of my RugRat. I'll post it in a second. On mine, I have the servo back instead of forward like most others. Later on I'll try the servo more forward. But I can't seem to get the ball cups right when I have the servo forward. Well let me get the pics...
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 02:31 PM   #5769
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

I have seen the optional 1.9 and 2.1mm chassis' for the Yok, it also appears that they are regular carbon rather than SSG, so they would be stiffer. Unfortunately I couldn't find a pic, but I believe they were under $35...
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 02:38 PM   #5770
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,343
Default

Here is my RugRat. Tried to shrink the pic down as much as I could to keep file size down for you Dial up guys.

Note the ESC. It's a GM12xc. One day the receiver wires decided to come unsoldered. I thought the ESC fried. So after months and months of not using it. I decided to crack open the case and found the wires loose inside! Presto! Makes a great 1/12th ESC! I superglued the case back together and tossed on my LRP heat sink hehe.

JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 02:45 PM   #5771
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Definately looks cool, looks like there is more room to get strapping tape in there for the batts as well...

If I get a 12L3, and the rugrat conversion, will I have everything I need?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 02:56 PM   #5772
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,343
Default

Yes. When I got my RugRat... I already had a 12L3 and the Yok. I think all you would really need is a thicker T-bar... The 12L3 is uhh .063 and you need the .075. Or you can just get the Silva Spring Steel 1/12th T-Plate. It's very nice. Other than that... you can get a set of .020 springs and you are set for carpet. I think the part number for that is 4113 from AE. The AE tbar is 4520.
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 03:15 PM   #5773
Tech Apprentice
 
rattlr2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 91
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

kilruf how does the rugrat run? hav'nt seen any run yetand was looking for new ride. only handful to choose from. trinity hard to get parts for. and would like to have t-bar instead of crc or speedmerchant
rattlr2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 03:43 PM   #5774
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Yes. When I got my RugRat... I already had a 12L3 and the Yok. I think all you would really need is a thicker T-bar... The 12L3 is uhh .063 and you need the .075. Or you can just get the Silva Spring Steel 1/12th T-Plate. It's very nice. Other than that... you can get a set of .020 springs and you are set for carpet. I think the part number for that is 4113 from AE. The AE tbar is 4520.
Cool, I'll definately give it thought, I may just see what most people are driving up at Stockton and go with that though...
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2003, 03:52 PM   #5775
Tech Master
 
stormperson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson
Default

kilruf- Be careful out changing the mounting of the servo. You can really screw up your ackerman. Also it looks like you are running old jaco tires in the rear (grey rims) and the new white rims in the front. The foams are different on the new tires compaired to the old ones (the new ones are harder) so just an FYI, lol.

The rugrat is more a carpet 12th scale compaired to the other cars out there. I think I read (could have been on this forum, LOL!) that Mike D was going to cut out some of the bracing on his rugrat at the paved nats (which he ended up winning) to get some traction. Also the stock AE chassis flexes alot so thats why most of the team guys either run a thicker chassis or the LC chassis (which is thin, but with very little cutouts, and you can get them directly from AE), on carpet that is.

rattlr2- Just wondering, why are you ruling out "links" cars and only wanting a t-bar?
__________________
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:13 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0