R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-24-2003, 07:36 AM   #5731
Tech Master
 
davepull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 1,180
Default

there are other options for a servo I think that this airtronics is what alot of guys use and it is alot cheaper

Airtronics 94145Z Servo High Speed BB Micro Z

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX0931&P=7

this is the futaba that I got it gives up alittle speed for more torque

Futaba S9650 Digital Mini Servo

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDTB4&P=0


just hate to see you pay $100.00 more for less of a servo
davepull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:34 AM   #5732
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rice98w
side/side is controlled through the dampner tubes... they are underneath where they normally are!

and yes, blue only
Aah, I think I see the tubes now...

Too bad it's only blue, dont know that I really want it because of that... I'm a red guy
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:36 AM   #5733
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by davepull
there are other options for a servo I think that this airtronics is what alot of guys use and it is alot cheaper

Airtronics 94145Z Servo High Speed BB Micro Z

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX0931&P=7

this is the futaba that I got it gives up alittle speed for more torque

Futaba S9650 Digital Mini Servo

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDTB4&P=0


just hate to see you pay $100.00 more for less of a servo
How does the Futaba compare to the Airtronics quality wise? I have to use a digital servo for my 3PK HRS system, and I'd prefer Futaba, but I have only run the airtronics in the past for 1/12 scale.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 07:33 PM   #5734
Tech Elite
 
JimmyMac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: NC
Posts: 4,343
Default

Rand, I wanted to switch to a digital servo for my HRS. I'm not sure how it would work on 4.8v since they say the receiver requires 6v. So I stuck with my old receiver and my s9602. But I suppose you could use a rx pack to suppy the 6v needed for the receiver. I'd just use a PCM receiver for the 1/12th. The S9650 is plastic gear. I'm sure it's strong enough for 1/12th. But I don't like that idea. I'd choose the Futaba over the Airtronics. Or try out that KO everyone likes.

As for my Yok, it will be back out once asphalt season opens back up next year. The car is just too nice. You can do good with it on carpet. And if you are gonna race it only a few times a year, don't worry about it. I'll give you my setup to try. If you buy one. I was fast with it here. I just switched to the RugRat because I'm goin to Snowbirds in a few. So I need that extra stiffness for carpet.
JimmyMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 07:59 PM   #5735
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

If I do get the 1/12, I'll run a RX pack, I like the added steering speed at the least.

If I do get the Yokomo car, I'll propably end up cutting my own chassis for it, heck, that's what I bought a mill for I just want to make sure I'm getting a car that's capable of winning.

It looks like I'll be making the Northwest Carpet Champs in Janruary, but dont think I'll have the time to get a 1/12 scale together by then, so propably just run the SD.
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 10:10 PM   #5736
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: springfield, ma.
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to tnt2671
Default rugrat

(Originally posted by KilRuf
Depends on the price of the Yok. Usually they are around $200-230. With a 12L3 and the RugRat... you are looking at around $150 for L3 and $100 for black RugRat. Or build one from scratch just buying the AE 1/12th front end kit for like $35 (AE4401). Then selecting your own rear end pod plates and T-Bar and accessories (pivot ball and pivot ball holder and screws and shims). AE pod sets the axle higher than Yok or IRS rear end with same axle height adjuster. So you can only go soo small on your tires before the rear end is lower than 3mm (which makes it not legal for carpet.) Hmmm need a rear axle too with accessories. Oh yeah... rear VCS Micro Shock. Anyways, I'm sure you get the picture.

Oh yeah... and if the Yok was stiffer, I would have stuck with it since I'm a Yok kind of guy hehe.... The Yok actually has spots to add damper rods. So I would have taken off the damper plates and added rods instead. I'm sure there is a stiffer chassis out there you can toss on the Yok. I just didn't feel like searching it out. Also on the Yok... you can only run Yokomo T-Bars (I don't think they sell a thick one). So to switch to a thicker T-Bar for carpet you'd need to switch to AE pivotball holders. )


i just got a rugrat conversion and man the thing is super thick you wont see flex at all thats for sure
tnt2671 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 10:15 PM   #5737
Tech Master
 
davepull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 1,180
Default crc

hey Randman If you like red the the new crc 4 cell t bar car is a good choice it is alittle pricy but it comes with all red parts lowered pods and purple and gery tires plus this car would work well on both carpet and asphalt

Dave
davepull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:12 PM   #5738
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: washington state
Posts: 439
Send a message via AIM to rcracer37
Default yok on the way

I have a Yokomo on the way does some one sell the thicker chassis or t bars or whatever I need to make the car better for carpet. My Yokomo will only be run on carpet during winter season.

Any suggestions for Yokomo setup on carpet would be great.

baboon14 has given me a couple of suggestions already anymore would be great.
rcracer37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:15 PM   #5739
Tech Regular
 
wheelmanST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 483
Send a message via AIM to wheelmanST
Default

forgot to let you know, I run the silva med steel t bar. Helps a bunch. I think yok will have a new thicker chassis on the way if not already out. I believe its Shooters that has a thicker one...not sure.
wheelmanST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:23 PM   #5740
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default Re: crc

Quote:
Originally posted by davepull
hey Randman If you like red the the new crc 4 cell t bar car is a good choice it is alittle pricy but it comes with all red parts lowered pods and purple and gery tires plus this car would work well on both carpet and asphalt

Dave
Actually the Carpet Knife 3.0 was my favorite car a couple years ago, I was able to get it extremely dialed. The only thing I can think of that I didn't like, was that it didn't use a T plate, and setting up the side springs so that they loaded perfectly from right to left was a little hard...

Who has them at the best price?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:25 PM   #5741
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

All the talk about a thicker chassis... I dont know if it's necissary. I could get graphite 2mm thick that would be stiffer than a 3mm piece of the stuff that the cars come with stock. RC manufacturers use basic crap graphite to constuct the cars to keep costs down. I'm going to get some of the stiff stuff, and cut a chassis for my SD to see how it works. Unfortunately it's over $150 a sheet...
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:28 PM   #5742
Tech Master
 
davepull's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 1,180
Default Re: rugrat

Quote:
Originally posted by tnt2671
(Originally posted by KilRuf
Depends on the price of the Yok. Usually they are around $200-230. With a 12L3 and the RugRat... you are looking at around $150 for L3 and $100 for black RugRat. Or build one from scratch just buying the AE 1/12th front end kit for like $35 (AE4401). Then selecting your own rear end pod plates and T-Bar and accessories (pivot ball and pivot ball holder and screws and shims). AE pod sets the axle higher than Yok or IRS rear end with same axle height adjuster. So you can only go soo small on your tires before the rear end is lower than 3mm (which makes it not legal for carpet.) Hmmm need a rear axle too with accessories. Oh yeah... rear VCS Micro Shock. Anyways, I'm sure you get the picture.

Oh yeah... and if the Yok was stiffer, I would have stuck with it since I'm a Yok kind of guy hehe.... The Yok actually has spots to add damper rods. So I would have taken off the damper plates and added rods instead. I'm sure there is a stiffer chassis out there you can toss on the Yok. I just didn't feel like searching it out. Also on the Yok... you can only run Yokomo T-Bars (I don't think they sell a thick one). So to switch to a thicker T-Bar for carpet you'd need to switch to AE pivotball holders. )


i just got a rugrat conversion and man the thing is super thick you wont see flex at all thats for sure

i just built a rug rat from scratch and let me tell you it wasn't cheap. hell I have a 30 dollar center shock. i got the silva one and it is a conversion so you have to buy the ae blue body kit and the pistion/shaft throw in the front end and the ae blue standoffs irs pods irs large ring axle shock mount and roll over t bar and hardward, screw kit and body mounts you are up in the $300 range but man if I don't go fast at least it looks cool doing it.
davepull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:36 PM   #5743
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default Re: Re: rugrat

Quote:
Originally posted by davepull
i just built a rug rat from scratch and let me tell you it wasn't cheap. hell I have a 30 dollar center shock. i got the silva one and it is a conversion so you have to buy the ae blue body kit and the pistion/shaft throw in the front end and the ae blue standoffs irs pods irs large ring axle shock mount and roll over t bar and hardward, screw kit and body mounts you are up in the $300 range but man if I don't go fast at least it looks cool doing it.
So would you say it'd be cheaper to buy a 12L3, and buy a conversion?

At least you can sell the stock 12L3 stuff you dont use that way...
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:53 PM   #5744
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: seattle, WA
Posts: 864
Default

Get a hyperdrive. I think that's what I'm going to do. It's basically a 12L3, but they fixed all the things that were wrong with it. It's also got a shorter wheel base, prefect for indoor tracks (atleast most of 'em). The reflex looks like it will be too hard to get parts for. I can also use the old style front end on it if i want to. Ill do some testing with them and see which one is faster, or which one I like more.
racerdx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2003, 11:55 PM   #5745
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 16,665
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

What's Hyperdrive's website, I couldn't find it..
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:31 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0