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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-23-2003, 02:56 PM   #5716
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Really? How would I tape it down? all the way around the chassis? Any pics would be appreciated....

thanks,
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Old 12-23-2003, 04:00 PM   #5717
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
well to install a switch, all you do is put the switch inline with the red wire. So solder one end(after you cut the red wire) on to the middle post, then solder the other end onto either of the outer posts of the switch.
all you have to do is to go to your lhs and ask them to order you one of the switches for the nitro reciever pack and connect the two if you run a pre-made pack. this is the easiest way I have found
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Old 12-23-2003, 05:40 PM   #5718
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I run a Futaba S9602 servo. So that allows me to lay the servo flat on the chassis and screw it down. Just go to Tower website and check the pic out of one and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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Old 12-23-2003, 07:32 PM   #5719
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Default Reciever packs

I just put an AAA battery IN line (series) with the + wire from the speedo to the reciever. Take your 4.8 volts and add 1.5 or 1.2 to it and you get 6.3 or 6.0 volts to the receiver. Less weight, same effect.

All I do is cut the RED wire from the speedo, solder the side From the speedo to the - side of the battery, and the side that goes TO the receiver to the + side of the battery and Walla! You have full voltage for the radio and servo. Adds range and cuts down on glitching. An alkaline battery will last 2 or 3 race days. Can be checked with a voltmeter any time. Can be done with a Nimh AAA also. I'm sure you could do it with ONE of those 1/3 AA cells too. I have not tried it. I also have not tried a single AAA holder since I don't have much luck with them making good contact especially after a crash.

A better way is to remove the red wire from the plug. cut the terminal off, solder the wire to the negative side of the single cell, take another red wire from an old servo, cut it at the servo end. Solder this end to the Posative side of the battery, run the end with the terminal back into the plug. this makes it easy to mount the single cell in a convient place near the center of the car.

Hope this makes sense.
David Root
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Old 12-23-2003, 07:44 PM   #5720
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Default 16 Gauge Wire Is INSTOCK!

We now have ultra silicone 16 Gauge wire in stock!!!! Colors instock are Red, Blue, and Black. Sold in 2 foot pieces or by the roll. You can reach us at intenseraceway@yahoo.com
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Old 12-23-2003, 08:56 PM   #5721
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara

But what does the TRACTION has to do with using receiver pack..? I saw somone mentioned with the high traction carpet track, you need receiver pack, but if you race outdoor asphaut with low to no traction, you don't need to...why is that?

Why do you need a rx pack on high traction tracks?? Simple, because the more traction there is the more you can hammer out of the corners (drawing more amps). When the traction is low you are much easier on the throttle cause the car will want to spin out.

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Old 12-24-2003, 12:24 AM   #5722
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It's called throttle control
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Old 12-24-2003, 12:44 AM   #5723
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Depends on the price of the Yok. Usually they are around $200-230. With a 12L3 and the RugRat... you are looking at around $150 for L3 and $100 for black RugRat. Or build one from scratch just buying the AE 1/12th front end kit for like $35 (AE4401). Then selecting your own rear end pod plates and T-Bar and accessories (pivot ball and pivot ball holder and screws and shims). AE pod sets the axle higher than Yok or IRS rear end with same axle height adjuster. So you can only go soo small on your tires before the rear end is lower than 3mm (which makes it not legal for carpet.) Hmmm need a rear axle too with accessories. Oh yeah... rear VCS Micro Shock. Anyways, I'm sure you get the picture.

Oh yeah... and if the Yok was stiffer, I would have stuck with it since I'm a Yok kind of guy hehe.... The Yok actually has spots to add damper rods. So I would have taken off the damper plates and added rods instead. I'm sure there is a stiffer chassis out there you can toss on the Yok. I just didn't feel like searching it out. Also on the Yok... you can only run Yokomo T-Bars (I don't think they sell a thick one). So to switch to a thicker T-Bar for carpet you'd need to switch to AE pivotball holders.
I'm still debating on if I want to build a car that will only get raced a few times a year, but I really love 1/12 scale racing, so this might be an exception. I'm gonna do some research and search out a Yokomo chassis (if it's made) and if I can find one, I'll propably pick up the Yokomo car. I'm a Yokomo guy too, I wont be switching cars for some time...
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Old 12-24-2003, 12:47 AM   #5724
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
This is LAYDOWN ( I believed)....



Some ppl like to mount their servo above the chassis in ANGLES, with the stock servo mount, you can mount the servo above the chassis (in angle)
Would that be the new Trinity car?
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Old 12-24-2003, 01:17 AM   #5725
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yes
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Old 12-24-2003, 01:22 AM   #5726
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Is that only avalible with the blue chassis?
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Old 12-24-2003, 01:23 AM   #5727
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And how do you adjust the side/side dampening?
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Old 12-24-2003, 03:23 AM   #5728
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side/side is controlled through the dampner tubes... they are underneath where they normally are!

and yes, blue only
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Old 12-24-2003, 04:18 AM   #5729
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Thank you everyone here explain to me about the reason why ppl use recevier pack on high traction track....and they all make sence.

About the laydown servo and installation..........now a day, beside using 3M servo tape and shoe glue.....most MICRO servo from Futaba, KO or Sanwa made their servo with special mounting "EARS"..........you can mount the servo by using 2 4-40 screws with lock nuts and mount the servo in laydown position with using any double sided tape and shoe glue (compare to the way I mounted my servo on my last 12th scale TRC Pro 12 back like 16-18 years ago....)....you can find that kind of servo from the link below....like this S9602, I think that is a good servo to use on 12th scale (the one I have is from Sanwa....pretty much the same thing)

Futaba Mini Servo for 12th scale

Yes, that was the new Trinity Relfex 12.....only come in blue carbon fiber version now, but I heard they will have PINK Barbie edition coming (Just kidding)....

Side/side damping, like others said....no springs/shock using but to adjust those damper you have to use the different degree/thickness of the GREASE (white, red, or 50/50 mix) to control the dampering's fliction....(thicker or lighter), those setting are listing on the installation manual
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Old 12-24-2003, 07:22 AM   #5730
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Default Damper tubes

I use springs inside my CRC Damper tubes installed in my 12L3. The springs come from ballpen, hehehehehehehe try it works for me!!
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