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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-22-2003, 09:01 PM   #5686
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Default Re: Associated Chassis Protectors

Quote:
Originally posted by stumper1
Does anyone know of someone online who has the Associated Chassis Protectors in stock. I've done some hunting and I think they may have discontinued them. Does anyone else make a similar product? Do they really work?

Thanks
Are you pertaining to the underside chassis protector, if you are As a substitute, try using 3M BathTub Tabe the clear one. But it will only add weight to the car.
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Old 12-22-2003, 10:05 PM   #5687
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HaHa, P2,
Well I gotta go help out my mom till like 2, so I told ronnie I would call him when I can go out there, to see if you guys are still running.

Save me a batt pack to try your car!
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Old 12-22-2003, 10:40 PM   #5688
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Default Reciever packs for 1/12 4 cell

Where does the switch go if I get a reciever pack for my 4 cell 1/12 scale? I have a quantum comp. so what do I do with it? Do I left the speedo in the off position?

P2, are you getting a reciever pack? Let me know..

Ronnie
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:04 PM   #5689
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Default Re: Reciever packs for 1/12 4 cell

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Where does the switch go if I get a reciever pack for my 4 cell 1/12 scale? I have a quantum comp. so what do I do with it? Do I left the speedo in the off position?

P2, are you getting a reciever pack? Let me know..

Ronnie
Ronnie P.

Why do you need one, didn't you Fuku battery have 5800mah Serioulsy....don't need one for our low grip/dusty track. Carpet is another story though.

PP
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Old 12-22-2003, 11:24 PM   #5690
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Ronnie, just order us a few.

Switch, comes pre-installed, or goes inline of red wire, about your comp. speedo, look a page earlier i think, some guy says something about it(may be on this page)

p2, cause me and ronnie need all the juice we can get to motor by you on the straight
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Old 12-23-2003, 12:09 AM   #5691
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Hey guys, I'm gonna be buying a 1/12 scale car, basically just to have for when I go to carpet tracks every now and then. How does the Yokomo 1/12 car stack up to the competition on high bite carpet?
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Old 12-23-2003, 12:27 AM   #5692
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Hey Randman, I ran the Yok 1/12th and it did pretty good on carpet. But I just got the IRS Rugrat Conversion kit for it and it works even better now. On the conversion kit you need a few parts from a RC12L3 to get it to work though. I already had one so it was no problem. Anyways, I liked the way my Yok drove on the track. And now I have my Rugrat setup to drive with the same feeling. But my lap times are faster. Maybe if you can get the stiffer Yok Chassis that Tosolini had.. that would help out the car.
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Old 12-23-2003, 12:33 AM   #5693
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what are you using for a set up on the rug rat?
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Old 12-23-2003, 12:37 AM   #5694
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
Hey Randman, I ran the Yok 1/12th and it did pretty good on carpet. But I just got the IRS Rugrat Conversion kit for it and it works even better now. On the conversion kit you need a few parts from a RC12L3 to get it to work though. I already had one so it was no problem. Anyways, I liked the way my Yok drove on the track. And now I have my Rugrat setup to drive with the same feeling. But my lap times are faster. Maybe if you can get the stiffer Yok Chassis that Tosolini had.. that would help out the car.
Is there a website avalible for the Rugrat car? Hopefully Chris will be at the track tomorrow, and I'll see what chassis he had...
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Old 12-23-2003, 01:06 AM   #5695
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I think one like posted a few pages back. Now I'm not 1/12th setup pro but this is what I run so far. .020 springs up front. -1 Camber. 2shims to the back on Caster. Servo laid down. Batteries back. Mugen 5000wt on rods. 30wt shock. Olive spring. Silva T-Plate. Rollout near 1.64. (Monster Stock) I can't think of anything else right now. Chassis level (no arch.) Can't think of rear pod droop. But it does droop more than most. Rear ride height .5mm higher than front. Front is around 3-3.5mm. Parma Speed8 Lt body. Tried the Blue spring on shock. But car pushed alittle. Gonna test it again this weekend. I'd like to try the IRS frontend for the car. But gotta order one first. I'm gonna try a few other things as well this weekend.

Forgot to add Jaco Purple Fronts with Grey Rears. Full sauce rear. Half sauce fronts (inside). 96spur/27(I think) pinion. I'd like to try out a 100spur. But my Yok SD runs it. When the shop gets more in stock I'll try that out. I think that's it.....

Last edited by JimmyMac; 12-23-2003 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 12-23-2003, 01:09 AM   #5696
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Rand, teamirsrc.com makes the conversion. I know Tower sells it, but Stormer has the best price I've seen on one. I have the Blue Chassis.
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Old 12-23-2003, 01:15 AM   #5697
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So with the rug rat, it looks like I'd basically have to buy a 12L3, and then convert it, seems to change a lot of parts. Would the Yokomo be better if it was a little stiffer?
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Old 12-23-2003, 01:35 AM   #5698
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Depends on the price of the Yok. Usually they are around $200-230. With a 12L3 and the RugRat... you are looking at around $150 for L3 and $100 for black RugRat. Or build one from scratch just buying the AE 1/12th front end kit for like $35 (AE4401). Then selecting your own rear end pod plates and T-Bar and accessories (pivot ball and pivot ball holder and screws and shims). AE pod sets the axle higher than Yok or IRS rear end with same axle height adjuster. So you can only go soo small on your tires before the rear end is lower than 3mm (which makes it not legal for carpet.) Hmmm need a rear axle too with accessories. Oh yeah... rear VCS Micro Shock. Anyways, I'm sure you get the picture.

Oh yeah... and if the Yok was stiffer, I would have stuck with it since I'm a Yok kind of guy hehe.... The Yok actually has spots to add damper rods. So I would have taken off the damper plates and added rods instead. I'm sure there is a stiffer chassis out there you can toss on the Yok. I just didn't feel like searching it out. Also on the Yok... you can only run Yokomo T-Bars (I don't think they sell a thick one). So to switch to a thicker T-Bar for carpet you'd need to switch to AE pivotball holders.

Last edited by JimmyMac; 12-23-2003 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 12-23-2003, 06:27 AM   #5699
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The rugrat conversion won't work with the Yoke pod plates. The top plate won't fit because it doesn't have the extra left side hole.

The Yoke pod plates have the lowest bearing holders that I've seen. You can basically run down to the wheel if you want.
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Old 12-23-2003, 07:18 AM   #5700
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
I think one like posted a few pages back. Now I'm not 1/12th setup pro but this is what I run so far. .020 springs up front. -1 Camber. 2shims to the back on Caster. Servo laid down. Batteries back. Mugen 5000wt on rods. 30wt shock. Olive spring. Silva T-Plate.
Sorry, I'm new to 12th scale. A laydown servo? How did you do that? Anyone has pictures? Thanks...
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