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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-20-2002, 08:16 AM   #556
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Donuts, the whites have more grip=push. You can still get around just don't expect the steering or corner speed you get with grays. You want to dope the inside of the front tires. I myself use Paragon, always have. I've have run Zip Free but only when the track required it. I did run Red Dot a couple of times on asphalt, too sticky. If the track had any dust on it the tires would pick up all the dirt and lose traction after about 2 minutes.
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Old 02-20-2002, 01:33 PM   #557
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Jonny,
COOL, as you know I am just trying to keep the 1/12 forum on the first page so it doesnt get lost. Anyone else have any thoughts or ideas so we can keep this thread thriving?
IKE
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Old 02-20-2002, 04:51 PM   #558
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Socko....does Finishline put anything on their track(vht, grape sode etc.)....What tires do you use on asphault/concrete......I hope 1/12 makes a big comeback.....i raced off road for years while 1/12 WAS big...now that i am running 1/12, i wish i would have raced them years ago.......I really enjoy the longer races...you can get into a groove....one of the guys i race with agrees...sedan is just the warm up race for 1/12.....

As far as keeping it on the first page...post post post.
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Old 02-20-2002, 05:57 PM   #559
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I thought Paragon was made illegal since it can counter act the glue used to glue down ozite, plus it just isn't good to inhale all day long, at the track I mean. Everyone in the Twincities uses TQx's formulas-they don't smell so strong and they last longer, I think. well there's my two cents.

Petenis
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:03 PM   #560
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where do you get the TQ stuff?
IKE
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:17 PM   #561
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Sorry, Paragon is still legal. Some tracks won't let you use it because of the smell/odor thing. TQ works fairly well but I have found that you have to leave it on longer to get the traction to last the whole run.

Dragon, FL uses sugar water for traction and the bite is good. Gear BIG! and run more ride height so you don't drag.
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Old 02-20-2002, 08:33 PM   #562
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Anybody have a good setup for a Rev. 3 running stock. And does anybody have any motor setup tips for stock 12th with the Trinity Blue endbell handout motor, could also use some roll-out sugestions for a fast sweeping 120'X48' ozite track.
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Old 02-20-2002, 09:49 PM   #563
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darnold,
is the part number on the new 1/12 from Trinity 9830???????I cant tell which one I need to order. I have been trying to order it for about a week and a half but my LHS cant figure out which one is which. Also do you happen to remember the part number on the thicker T-BAr that I will need from Trinity? I can still use all my other stock parts right? Thanx again
IKE
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Old 02-21-2002, 08:57 AM   #564
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The side links on my CRC Carpet Knife were binding, so I ordered a new set from Calandra. I tried squeezing them but one side still binds. Does anyone know if the Speed Merchant side links will fit and what will I need to make it work? I could also have my LHS order really short Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and uses Associated ball ends. What do you guys think? Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2002, 09:39 AM   #565
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Ty: I have a SpeedMerchant Rev.3, and my kit came with the plastic (tube and piston) side damper. I replaced them with CRC blue anodized alumunim ones, when I broke one of the originals in a wreck. If I remember correctly, the Rev.3 links are a little shorter. You can still make them work though.

Also, Buds makes a side damper, but the cost was similar to the CRC anodized units???
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Old 02-21-2002, 10:29 AM   #566
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Schurcr, Try the Knife setup I posted below for Ty. The two cars are very similar. Start with the batteries back. For gearing try a 46-48mm rollout.

Ty, The side links will fit. Calandra has them too. You just attach them at the front in place of the spacers for the battery brace.
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Old 02-22-2002, 12:31 AM   #567
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Hey Everyboddy- Glad to see all of the post. I had to start the routine again of going into the office up in Madison (I live in Ill) Tues-Thurs to help my partners out with out community revitalization project. Just got in.
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Old 02-22-2002, 12:40 AM   #568
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Foams- According to my manual the Trinity 02 car is part# SB 9830. I normally use the Associated Thick T-Bar since they are usually available from the LHS but you HAVE TO BUY THE ASSOC. T-BAR CUPS AND SCREWS!!! I just bought a Trinity Thick T-bar about a week ago but I don't have the header card. I would think your LHS would be able to get you the Trinity Thick T-bars. Just remember that Trinity in the manual seems to mis-state the Thin T-bar (.063) as being a Thick T-bar but it's not because the Thick T-bar from them is (.073) and they don't give a part number for it in the manual. Hurry up and get that car dude.LOL
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Old 02-22-2002, 12:49 AM   #569
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Ty- Check one of my earlier post where I talk about the CRC/Speed Merchant "football" setup. I would advise re-setting that first because often these go out of alignment and it will bind up the links. The problem is that unless you have the motor, rear axle assembly, and tweak plate off you won't be able to really feel any "kink" or bind in the links and or football. Also, the monoball cups do need to be replaced every so often (once or twice a season) because they develope slop in them just like the T-bar cars do, and the ball can move up and down in the cups. This slop is definately not good for these cars. Also if you are going to use the Speedmerchant setup you may want to look into the Lunsford's for the side links IF you can get them thin enough so that the are the same as stock.
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Old 02-22-2002, 12:53 AM   #570
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Foams- I now use magenta fronts on my home track and dope them almost the entire width (remember that I run mod). The traction at Venture is good. When I go to a High bite track similar to the grip at a Cleveland like the Grand Rapids race was last Sunday I use Purples and go about 2/3-3/4 dope on the fronts.
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