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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-22-2003, 04:25 AM   #5671
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looking for reciever pack for 1/12 scale any ideas and how to connect
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Old 12-22-2003, 05:03 AM   #5672
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You need 5 cells, 1/3AAA in size. The best ones we have found are made by GP, they do both 120mAh and 160 mAh. They then need soldering together like any pack of cells, and connecting to a spare channel or bat socket in you reciever. You only need the positive and negative (no signal needed). You should put a switch of some kind (usually an old esc one) in line with the positive wire.

Depending on esc you usually then leave the esc switched off and only switch the reciever pack on, this will then power both esc and servo. Some esc's need to be switched on, but if that is the case you usually disconnect the positive wire from the esc's reciever plug and then switch both switches.

I only switch the pack on and leave teh esc off. I know this method works for LRP quantum comp and GM SX12.
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Old 12-22-2003, 05:41 AM   #5673
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Default Re: Trinity BLOWS!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Back in July I ordered a new SB chassis from Trinity. I got a notice saying that it was on back order. I decided to switch to Speedmerchant and called Trinity to cancel the order. I just got an email from Trinity today saying that my SB chassis is shippind and that my credit card was billed. What kind of B.S. company does chit like this. Now I have to call those renobs and try to deal with them. In case you can't tell I HATE TRINITY!!!!!!!!!!!!
Adam, I need that Chassis. Call me when it comes in. You need some stuff from me anyways.

Tim
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Old 12-22-2003, 10:30 AM   #5674
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Quote:
looking for reciever pack for 1/12 scale any ideas and how to connect
Pro-Match has 12th rec. packs for 12.99 pre assembled with a connector. Thats what I run in mine, awesome since they are nimh cells so no mem. problems. I run a gt-7, I leave all the pins in the plug and connect a switch to the rec. pack. That way I only have to switch on the rec pack, and the gt-7 stays off. Hope that helps
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:34 PM   #5675
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Cool, do you know how man mAh the Pro-match pack is?

Does anyone have any experience with Rx packs with a keyence speedo?

Thanks
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:37 PM   #5676
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Hey guys! On the lowered rear pod,what ride height spacers do I need?I start my rears at 1.9.I am kinda new to this 12th scale thing.Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:38 PM   #5677
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Default Stumper1

CRC has the chasis protector. I have not seen it on the website, but just ask John and he will help you out.

TeamCRC.com or I think He is Johnnywopper on this forum. Real nice guy.

David Root
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:39 PM   #5678
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bab00n14,

Where do i plug in the receiver pack to? 3rd channel on my receiver? I also run a GT7, so that means that I don't have to turn it on once I have the reciever pack installed?

You mentioned that you have a switch on the receiver pack....how do I install one? Lastly, how do i charge the receiver pack? what amp?

Thanks for your help,
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Old 12-22-2003, 03:34 PM   #5679
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Quote:
Originally posted by racenut123
Hey guys! On the lowered rear pod,what ride height spacers do I need?I start my rears at 1.9.I am kinda new to this 12th scale thing.Thanks!
with .090 lowered pods I run A 2 down or with a 1.850 rear tire to get just a hair over 3mm ride height so I would say either a #2 up or try a #3
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Old 12-22-2003, 04:21 PM   #5680
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well to install a switch, all you do is put the switch inline with the red wire. So solder one end(after you cut the red wire) on to the middle post, then solder the other end onto either of the outer posts of the switch.
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Old 12-22-2003, 05:40 PM   #5681
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I haven't tried a RX pack with a Keyence. I know they defenetly work with the red wire REMOVED and then both switched on, but am not sure if they will work with the red wire left in and speedo left off.

Personally i charge my pack at either 0.3A or 0.5A. Generally i would say as low as possible.
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Old 12-22-2003, 06:02 PM   #5682
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Quote:
Originally posted by bab00n14
Nice choice...I also run a yok worlds car. Ill give you some of my setup to try. I run on a medium bite tight carpet track running 19t spec motors.

Front - 20 springs, old skool front end, 3 - 3.5mm ride, Jaco purples

Rear - Batts back, red spring, 30wt oil, diff lube on the disc, 3 - 3.5mm ride, Jaco grey

That should get you started. Since the car has a lot of flex, it seems to be very forgiving on setup. So basically if you have the right tires for your track (usually purple/grey works best) the car will run fine. I have been through tons of setups with this car and right now, its the best its ever been. Seems to be the car to beat at my local track, and I like being the only one running the yok. Hope that helps you...feel free to email me for any further questions about the car.
Thanks bab00n14
I will try that setup when my car gets here any more info you can think of would be great.
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Old 12-22-2003, 06:09 PM   #5683
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Hank has Rx packs over on Hobbytalk also..

http://www.hobbyshopper.com/

He sells the in loose & assembled packs..
150mAh

The Rx packs helps the servo ALOT and lots of glitching problems certian ESC's have....
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Last edited by Tres; 12-22-2003 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 12-22-2003, 06:18 PM   #5684
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
Cool, do you know how man mAh the Pro-match pack is?

Does anyone have any experience with Rx packs with a keyence speedo?

Thanks
MisFitz,

For our track we don't need a rx pack cause the traction $uck$. Ronnie, Larry and I are going to practice tomorrow afternoon, do you want to go too?

P2

P.S. This is the 12 scale fourm......get out of here and go back to the TC3 section
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Old 12-22-2003, 08:14 PM   #5685
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JCB you have a PM!


The pro match rx pack is 160mah
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