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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-17-2003, 05:05 AM   #5611
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Default Trinity parts

The trinity front end parts are hard to find. We have a shipment of them on the way now. Horizon Hobby does not stock them.

CRC had a problem with their wheels a while back. They looked true but wobbled when installed on the car. That was on the fronts. I do know that CRC and Jaco are supposed to be using the same white material. Hope that helps.
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:49 AM   #5612
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Thanks for the TRINTIY parts information.............and i have some more question.

For those who has the Reflex 12, beside the lower CG, does the car worth to get or drive...? (when compare to the Switchblade S.E...)

What is the body the Josh used on winter national? What brand and what model is that...?

Thanks again.............

P.S. is there a Reflex 12 thread here in RCtech? (I mean dedicated for Reflex 12 only....)
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:27 AM   #5613
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Originally posted by KilRuf
Kraig, any pictures on Josh's bodies? I'm looking to try out different bodies and wouldn't mind trying his. Oh yeah, you have great prices on tires!
We try our best our prices. I personally don't have any pictures of his bodies. Someone posted awhile back a picture of it. Maybe Josh has a current picture or maybe someone on here can post a picture of it, I sure sold enough of them already.

Can anyone help KilRuf out?
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Old 12-17-2003, 03:17 PM   #5614
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I think that body is exactly like these I saw at my local track....they are from CEFX

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 12-18-2003 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 12-17-2003, 03:29 PM   #5615
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Default hpi rs12g

will this car be coming to the us?
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Old 12-17-2003, 03:55 PM   #5616
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That is Josh's body, and his company is CEFX. I heard baker tried one in mod 12th at cleveland it was too twichy however, in stock they should probalby be better in stock, maybe, i dunno. I got some in cleveland and havent tried em yet. BTW, those mazda headlights dont look half bad on a 12th scale...

No reflex 12 thread on this forum that I have seen. And btw, you really cant lower a 12th scale that much. The motor, batteries, servo, esc, and rx are already as low as possibly on pretty much every 12th scale. The front end, nothing is really lower than the old style front end, and the axle is a matter of tire size. Also the shock is mounted lower (right onto the chassis instead of half a inch up with and AE mount however, I think alot of guys move the shock anyway because it handles better, or least thats what I have heard. Also the damper tubes are below the chassis to start out with however the factory drivers are moving them above the chassis...
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Old 12-17-2003, 07:25 PM   #5617
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Default Trinity BLOWS!!!!!!!!!!!

Back in July I ordered a new SB chassis from Trinity. I got a notice saying that it was on back order. I decided to switch to Speedmerchant and called Trinity to cancel the order. I just got an email from Trinity today saying that my SB chassis is shippind and that my credit card was billed. What kind of B.S. company does chit like this. Now I have to call those renobs and try to deal with them. In case you can't tell I HATE TRINITY!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-17-2003, 08:21 PM   #5618
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Adam, if you used a c/c and not a debit card you can always dispute the charges. See how the c/c company wants to handle it with the goods.
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Old 12-18-2003, 01:26 AM   #5619
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Thanks for the pic...
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Old 12-18-2003, 04:58 AM   #5620
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Default Pro parts 12th scale!!!

I bought a used Pro parts 12th scale and it is awesome!!!! It stays super flat and carries tons of corner speed. I have since found out that they no longer make 12th scales. Shame cause it is so hooked up its not funny. If any of you guys have one you want to get rid of let me know...
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:34 AM   #5621
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Post some pics of your Pro Parts 12th - I've never seen one.
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:38 AM   #5622
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I will take some and post them..

Its real unique the tplate sits real low and the pod is super low. It looks similiar to the t fource.
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:46 AM   #5623
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The Pro-Parts car is extremely cool looking, and I believe Jay Robinette stuck one in the Stock A at the Indoor Champs a few years back. If I remember right you could change the height at which the T-bar was mounted to manipulate roll center, and it had a tapeless battery retention system.
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:48 AM   #5624
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Old 12-18-2003, 06:05 AM   #5625
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I have an old Advanced Racing Technologies, Agitator. And that chassis sticks to the track like a slot car. Its too bad some of these companies couldnt have stuck around to see how they would have progressed with technology. Some of those older little companies were way ahead of thier time.
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