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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-15-2003, 07:47 AM   #5581
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Originally posted by spyderx
That front-end is trick.

I have a question... do any of you guys run the hard anodized aluminum pivot balls in your front end? I know the oval guys do, was wondering if these were less prone to slop.

I use those aluminum parts on my suspension. I am not going to say that they have less slop than the other brand, but they are teflon coated, hard anodized so they should remain consistent with virtually no wear. I like them because they work well with dampning fluids and greases. This makes a big difference.
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Old 12-15-2003, 07:51 AM   #5582
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Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
David Lee-- Left without saying good bye. Will you be at the Fort Wane race?
Yea, an you stink!

I will be there if the schedule fits. That is the time where there are a lot of places to attend good races.

By the way, it was great meeting you and running into your car on the track. I hope you and your buds have a great holiday season.
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Old 12-15-2003, 07:55 AM   #5583
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Originally posted by racerdx6
Could you use the IRS e-clip hinge pins on the Associated Dynamic strut front end? I might be able to get a good deal on a used NIB Hyper Drive and the stock hinge pins dont look very appealing because they press fit right? I might end up using my old skool front end on the car though if I get it.
Think they will be a little long. I think the diameter will be good, so some adjustment with shims might put you in business. Good luck.
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Old 12-15-2003, 08:29 AM   #5584
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davidl- Are you going to the Jam this year at Madness?
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Old 12-15-2003, 10:22 AM   #5585
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No, Mark, it is too far, especially with Snowbirds coming so quickly.
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Old 12-15-2003, 12:51 PM   #5586
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COME ON DAIVD you knows its just a hope skip and a long jump for you plus what would a triple crown race be with out daivd lee their..

MIKE to the D what are your plans this saturday a couple of us are heading to long island again for saturday.

DAVID PUD PULLER you are my hero

if anyone is interested in a sterting setup for a reflex 12 e mail me at shmyka74@aol.com i will be more than willing to email it to you
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Old 12-15-2003, 01:38 PM   #5587
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davidl--I am shooting for the birds so you can hit my car at a big race.
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Old 12-15-2003, 04:19 PM   #5588
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Hey Guys,

I am having a really hard time with the front kingpins on my Carpet knife. I purchased the car used. I have been playing with the springs and also shims top and bottom and the e clips keep hitting the inside of the jaco wheels. I can get it so they dont touch and the wheel spins fine but then when the suspension is compressed a little they hit and stop the wheel from spinning. Its kinda strange because i ran it several times a few months back and dont remember having this problem, im almost positive that i am using the same kingpins and steering blocks that came with the kit as well. Please let me know if there is a shorter kingpin available or if there is something else i can try


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Old 12-15-2003, 05:36 PM   #5589
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Default Blake,

You do not need shorter king pins. Set them so the top does not rub on the inside of the wheel. You can use as many as 4 factory spacers on top of the king pin then the snap ring. (Ok E clip)

It should not change if the suspension is compressed. The bottom should clear with no problem.

Top E clip, Spacers ( up to 4 maybe 3) top arm ball with the flat side down, then the spindle, ONE spacer, then the bottom ball with flat side up, spring and then snap ring. Try to remove all slop with out adding any preload to the spring.

Mine was so close I had to remove the stickers from the inside of the tire.

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Old 12-15-2003, 05:56 PM   #5590
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Does anyone know where someone could get reflex 12 parts easily? I would hate to go through the process of buying another car that is hard to get parts for .
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Old 12-15-2003, 08:39 PM   #5591
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yah Smyka I am your hero because I can beat Todd Malone
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Old 12-16-2003, 04:19 AM   #5592
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racerdx- The trinity factory and maybe 3 hobby shops in the world. And a few online hobby shops. Although I dont see why people always pull this parts BS for 12th scales, they hardly break ever, and if you do break its normaly one of a few parts, so having spares is not an issue. Just stock up. However that is a t-bar car, and you can run AE t-bars, so just make sure to run AE t-bars and you will have parts.

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Old 12-16-2003, 06:13 AM   #5593
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Yes...but what does Trinity use for those 'few parts'...from my understanding many of those 'few parts' are proprietary...

The front end is Trinity...but you can likely use AE or other aftermarket front axles ...you've said the T-bar is a standard T-bar...I didn't look at it close enouguh to compare...but that's good news if indeed true. I've heard the rear axle is also proprietary for Trinity...the rear pod plates are definitely proprietary...

hmmm...seems like pulling that parts BS might be a good idea for this kit at least until the questions are answered!

Corally suffers from the same scrutiny...and it's one of the reasons I stayed away from Corally for my 12th scale, even though I have a LHS that supports Corally...if I travel to race everyplace will have AE or compatible parts for my CK....

I hope that Trinity's car IS indeed compatible with these standard parts, it was a sweet looking car!
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Old 12-16-2003, 06:46 AM   #5594
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Myths dispelled: Shmyka can correct me if I'm wrong, but here goes. The Reflex will accept STANDARD diffs/axles, Trinity's new stuff is just super trick. All I can think of that you'd really wanna have on hand is some spare lower front arms. That appears to be the only thing that can't be readily obtained from a decent hobby store, that can't be directly replaced with a AE, CRC, or best yet Speedmerchant part.
Team CRC, PowerPush, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, TxDSkingraphix, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
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Old 12-16-2003, 09:06 AM   #5595
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Since I race with two trinity drivers who have had the cars for some time each week. So here is what the deal is from what I have seen, Ian was correct! lol.

The rear pod is trinity, the axle however is a standard 12th scale axle, however there's is pretty cool, all black and the left side clamping hub is pretty trick. The t-bar that it comes with is NOT an AE bar, however you can run AE bars, not sure on how much work is needed to make it work though.

The front does not use any AE parts I am pretty sure however, I think steering knuckles you can use Strut ones (dont quote me). You cannot use AE springs, or anything else really. I would stock up on arms and if you can get em, the AE chassis protector's, since I have seen a broken chassis off not that hard of a hit.

Also I am sure not about this, but you might be able to use other brands of strapping tape... Ernie wasnt quite figure out a way to compleltly monoplize, lol.
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Last edited by stormperson; 12-16-2003 at 12:21 PM.
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