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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-14-2002, 06:49 PM   #541
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Darnold...thanks for the info...at the last race Socko was talking about the rear tires...gray vs. pink and said the pinks scrub too much speed....since i didnt have any other tires i was stuck...i have a set of grays waiting for me though........i didnt notice the black stuff on my chassis cause its black also...but when i got home and saw that my batteries were nasty sticky.....i'll give your suggestions a try.....going to get a new car this summmer...prolly 12LS......i like having the option of 4 and 6 batt. slots.....
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Old 02-14-2002, 08:14 PM   #542
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Dragon,

You can copy my setup, it should work the same on your car. Like I told Dave, I've got tons of steering and the rear end is hooked up too. I have to be careful sometimes in the early laps so I don't traction roll from turning in too hard.

Dave,

Sorry, haven't tried any P94s. I don't wish to go over to the "Dark Side". j/k How did you get the ride with Integy? Do they set you up with batts too or just motors?
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Old 02-14-2002, 10:15 PM   #543
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Darnold........I'm using Paragon FX2 sauce.....i put it on approx.20-25 minutes before my heat and just wipe the surface before the race...i try to do the tires the same way everytime....so, hopefully it will be consistent....and i am running on Ozite......we have about 7 or so race weekends on it.....

Socko....i'll give it a try.....
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Old 02-14-2002, 11:15 PM   #544
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Soko- Integy is just motors I run for SMC on the Battery front and their batteries are the best in my experience and opinion. Met Arthur & Pat at the Carpet Nats last year and we pitted next to each other along with RobK. They are really nice guys but it can be pretty difficult to get stuff. I have Arthur's cell # and I have found this mode of contacting him is better than e-mail. Their business has been so successful that they are constantly busy and hard to reach. The Ti motors magnets are really awesome and seem to last forever but the P 94's are even more efficient and the brushes last a lot longer. Also the power band seems to be a little higher in the Rev Range which necessitates a smaller pinion. Up until recently I used to think this was slower even though the smaller pinion gives a greater mechanical advantage that makes up for and actually gives increased bottom end on the track.
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Old 02-15-2002, 09:52 AM   #545
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darnold,
I need some 1/12th scale advice. I have a few questions and maybe you could answer them. Thanks so much in advance.

I run a CRC Carpet Knife V3.1 with full aluminum screws, titanium turnbuckles and Lunford titanium kit for the Dynamic Strut front end. I have and Airtronics 94145 servo, Novak XXL FM receiver, Novak Atom, and ProMatch 3000HV with good numbers. I bought a Parma Speed 8. I currently run .020 springs up front and a copper shock spring with 35 weight oil and red side springs. The car comes with a red shock spring and white side springs but the car seemed lazy that way. I ran Jaco purple fronts and gray rears.

The last time I raced I was getting very little rear traction, it could have been that I did not goop my tires long enough or I had a cracked rim. Plus I switched to Losi medium Hydradrive in the dampner tubes, put on the stiffer copper shock spring and the stiffer red side springs. The previous weekend I ran 100 weight shock oil in the dampner tubes, red shock spring and white side springs and I had good rear traction but the car was lazy and slow through the corners. Both times I had good steering, so that is not a problem. I tried .022 springs up front and I did not have enough steering with that and .018 was too soft and too much steering and it was lazy. My local track is ozite with grip increasing towards the end of the day. The track dimensions are 80 x 35.

I bought a pair of TRC purple fronts and I am waiting for the local shop to get in the TRC gray rears. I would like to know if you prefer Jaco or TRC and why?

What tire diameter should I race with?

What should my ride height be in the front, middle and rear pod?

We are only allowed to use Racer's Choice TQ purple or orange at my track. I use the purple, how long before my heats should I apply the traction compound, when should I wipe it off and how much should I put on the front and rear?

I currently run a Fantom Green 3 with Putnam green (high silver) brushes. What should I gear it with a 100 tooth spur and what springs should I run on the motor?

Thanks so much again and your posts have been very helpful so far.
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Old 02-15-2002, 10:15 AM   #546
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Hello Ty,

Try this, I used to run a Knife and this should work.

.022 front springs
Heavy Hydra on kingpins
4 deg. caster

Copper shock spring
70 wt. oil
Light Hydra in tubes
Red side springs

ride height 3mm in front, slightly higher in rear. Pod and chassis should be level at ride height, no "sag".

Make sure your side links are free. This can cause lots of weird handling problems if they stick. Try squeezing the cups with a pair of pliers a couple of times if they're tight. Loosen and reset your center pivot to make sure it's not bound up. When you have just the lower pod plate attached to the car (side and upper plates removed along with axle) The plate should rock from side to side easily and not "stick" or "click" to one side or the other.

With the shock attached the rear of the pod should only droop 1mm at the most. More than this will reduce front traction on throttle and make the car feel "lazy" entering corners since the chassis has to transition through the extra travel before it takes a set.

With TQ sauce put it on about 20 min before you run. Full rear and try 1/2 of the front to start. Wipe it off thoroughly right before you run. Adjust the amount of front dope to add or reduce steering.

Good tire sizes to start with are 1.8 front and 1.9 rear. Smaller front tires will give more steering if you need it but life is reduced of course.

Gearing is determined be rollout. With your track size I would try somewhere between 42 and 46mm. Stay on the low side since you run the Green 3 and want it to rev.

Hope this gets you started, I'm sure Dave will have some stuff to add that I missed too. Good luck!
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Old 02-15-2002, 04:41 PM   #547
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What is a good starting piont for gearing 4 cell stock Trinity motor in a Trinity car?
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Old 02-15-2002, 04:55 PM   #548
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Using 1.85"rears depending on the Trinity motor you are using is

GM3 26-100
P2k 27-100
P2k2 havent tried it yet.

Hope this helps if it doesnt look out for a great guy named darnold. hehehee

IKE
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Old 02-15-2002, 06:50 PM   #549
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Darnold- I raced at Oktober fast and won the C main 1/12 stock. I was poor at the time and tried to qualify with only 2000's. As you can probably guess, it didn't work. So by the Main I had some 3000HV's and whipped my competition by seven laps. my lap times were faster than most of the B main guys! I got a cool plack though, and I got my body signed by Billy Easton and Barry Baker. I've been running mod ever since.

I have found some of your old mods here at the track... three Ti arms and Two cans. And guess what, I'm getting them all this weekend! woo hoo! I am going to expirement with fantom brushes, the 317's, if my track has some in stock. Well gotta go tweak the 12LC, thanks for the tips on the Carpet knife! come visit us and the rest of the Minnesota racers on Trinity techtalk! I got a 1/12th scale thread there too! hope I see you at the norrca's, I'm the little punk kid who will have an oompa loompa in the window of my 1/12th scale. don't think I'll run mod though!thanks for all your help and info!

thepetenis
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Old 02-16-2002, 03:54 AM   #550
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Ty- everthing Soko said. Small clarification in case you didn't know, when Soko says 1mm droop here is a picture: when you connect the center shock the pod should move "backward" no more than 1mm so that it looks like it is trying to form an "A". What this does is it gives the car some extra front grip by not trying to "pick up" the front tires off the ground on acceleration and it helps to keep the front end from "washing out" going into a corner which creates "push". Also, this adjustment helps to stabilize the rear. Many people don't set their "knives" up with this. thanks Sako for giving TY the info.
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Old 02-16-2002, 03:58 AM   #551
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petenis- Glad to hear it. LORD willing I should make it to the Norrca nats. Let me know how those motor run for you and how you do. I'll go over to the TT 12th thread and MN thread and say hi.-Dave
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Old 02-18-2002, 12:06 PM   #552
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Went up to Grand Rapids yesterday. Boy the competition in 12th stock was awesome. Keith "Motor City" Hamilton, Rich Chang, Ron Ferguson and his to friends are really fast. Ron was in the Masters Stock "A" main at Cleveland. Rich TQ'ed and Won and Ron got third. I caused too much mayhem running mod with them in the first qualifier so I pulled out and ran inbetween rounds and had my laps & times counted. I was about .8sec/lap faster which is right on the bubble. I would like to have another .2sec/lap and since my 8 turn was lacking some punch people said even though it was still fast. The car was wonderfull on a track that had a black groove in it with traction similar to Cleveland/January Jam's races. It never wanted to traction roll and it had more corner speed than any other car I have run since coming back to this hobby (3yrs ago). All this AND it was easy to drive. Ron and many others really thought highly of the Trinity 02 edition car, now I just need some work! So how was everyones race weekends? Let's get some activity going. LOL -Dave
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Old 02-18-2002, 03:08 PM   #553
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Pretty good..i used yours and Socko suggestions..picked up some new purple/gray's and went faster.....the grays seemed to go away toward the end of the run...didnt feel as planted as the pinks(loose)......did turn more laps though.........qualified 2nd. finished 2nd.The leader and i ran 40-45 laps about 10-15 feet apart..nobody made a mistake, then, i hit a wall and 3 laps later the leader hit the wall in the same spot so we were right back to where we were...I finished 3 seconds behind....closest i've ever been to him.....lol

Last edited by Dragon Slayer; 02-18-2002 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 02-19-2002, 01:26 AM   #554
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Thanks Dragon S. So what is the word out there with everyone else? I have to rebuild my diff. I had two of the new Boca Ceramic Bearings (flanged) and they both blew out in 1 wk each. I'm pretty disappointed and plan on e-m'ing them to let them know, maybe they will replace them with some regular bearings. I wouldn't recommend them right now though. So has anyone ever tried Integy Motors or Brushes and if so what did they think of them? I run for them and since Big Jim started doing their winding last summer their quality has really been good. I would honestly recommend them they use the Ti can and they are going to check into Possibly doing the P94 motors. Should see people out at the Indy race which is the 4th leg of the US Triple Crown Series and then at the 5th and final leg for the indoor carpet season which is the ROAR Carpet On-Road Nationals out in California, looking forward to both. Anyone else going to either of these?-Dave
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Old 02-20-2002, 02:43 AM   #555
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Comeon we cant let the 1/12 thread to go to the second page!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!K how about this.........Dave what happens if I use white rears instead of grays?????And which portion of the front tires do you juice????And finally in the interest of conversation does anyone use the FOAM DEATH GRIP traction compound or do we all use Paragon????
IKE
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