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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-09-2003, 10:55 PM   #5491
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Quote:
Originally posted by 70mph pan car
i'm having a hell of a time taping my batteries into my 12l3.Do you have any tips on doing it? I'm currently using duct tape. whats better?
Have you tried strapping tape?? 3M makes it for packages etc. It still is a pain in the arse though.
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:33 AM   #5492
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Quote:
Originally posted by 70mph pan car
i'm having a hell of a time taping my batteries into my 12l3.Do you have any tips on doing it? I'm currently using duct tape. whats better?
Like I said before come to the track and ask the other racers. I would be more than willing to show you how to tape the batteries in.

Dick
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:53 AM   #5493
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Default Strapping tape

If you look around you will find 3M strapping tape, 3/4" wide in a dispenser like the roll of tape you wrap christmas presents with (Scotch?). I have also converted a Desk tape dispenser to hold a roll of strapping tape. Just makes it easier. You will find 3M makes the best tape, other brands are harder to work with.

I race a Carpet Knife in 1/12, so I don't need tape, but still race a 10L3T.

Taping batteries in is a pain in the butt, ask anyone here. It does hold them in better than most other ways. Velcro works, but they are not in as tight and I don't want the heaviest part of my car shifting at all!

David Root
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Old 12-10-2003, 05:41 AM   #5494
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I forgot what company it is (but they make oval stuff), might be wolfe actually, lol.... However, their strapping tape is awsome. A few guys at my home track now have t-bar cars and I can defently see how duct tape would make taping in your batteries near impossible.

Also remember to double up you tape when you strap! (Do this before your even touch it to the chassis, just take two peices of the same lengh and put one ontop of the other and then strap your batts).
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Old 12-10-2003, 05:49 AM   #5495
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lowbugit, I have tried Trinity red and a mix of red and purple and it works OK. I have also seen Losi Hydra fluid. I think I am going to try some Mugen 3000 or 5000 diff fluid next. It was suggested a couple pages back.
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Old 12-10-2003, 06:54 AM   #5496
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcsquish
lowbugit, I have tried Trinity red and a mix of red and purple and it works OK. I have also seen Losi Hydra fluid. I think I am going to try some Mugen 3000 or 5000 diff fluid next. It was suggested a couple pages back.
I run the Mugen 5000wt diff silicone and like it.
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:05 AM   #5497
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I use shock oil (20 .. 40wt) / Losi hydra drive fluid / Corally damper tube silicone fluid. That's from thinnest to thickest. The advantage is that they're all more or less the same. I.e. they're all silicone fluids.

On another topic: what type of traction compound do you prefer? I'm curious about Paragron FX2. It's not commonly used in Europe, because it's not odourless :-s But I suspect it's *the* additive for carpet racing.
We mainly use Corally jack the Gripper, or CS yellow. jack the Gripper works Ok in all conditions, but the CS yellow seems a little more aggressive. there's also CS Blue, which is 'medium'. That helps when you're having traction roll problems, or you need a mild compound for the front, to reduce oversteer. The LRP product is the same as Jack the Gripper.
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Old 12-10-2003, 10:43 AM   #5498
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70mph pancar if you were using a quad 12 you woudlnt have that problem no tape needed!
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Old 12-10-2003, 10:53 AM   #5499
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Setting Tweak, the right way or the wrong way???

I just raced my RC12L3 for the first time this past weekend. But, at the track I was setting my tweak from the front, and was told by several guys I should do it from the back of the car. Even, had one guy tell me it really doesn't matter, as long as I set it the same way everytime so I know how the car is going to react. So, I now set the tweak from the front, and then I check it in the back. Usually once I have the front set, the back is perfect. But, if I set it from the back the front is always a tad off.

My queston to ya'll experts is, which way is correct or does it really matter??
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Old 12-10-2003, 11:00 AM   #5500
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I normally tweak the car from the front. Either way is ok if it's working for you. I tweak the front because the main chassis is heavier and overcomes the damper tubes more easily. If you just teak the pod (rear) the tubes may stick a little and throw things off.
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Old 12-10-2003, 01:16 PM   #5501
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Its the same from the front and from the back, since weight is transferred diagonally. And for once it applies to both 2wd and 4wd! lol.
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Old 12-10-2003, 02:36 PM   #5502
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as for traction compound you could never beat paragon for traction but if you want traction compound that is oderless you really cant the new niftech traction compound it works great
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:04 PM   #5503
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Niftech is FAR from odorless...
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:07 PM   #5504
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Also....

CRC has Tube Lube (damper tube syrup) in light and heavy flavors. Should work well in IRS, Speedmerchant, Trinity or CRC tubes.

Last edited by Junkie; 12-10-2003 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 12-11-2003, 06:23 AM   #5505
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Quote:
Originally posted by Junkie
Niftech is FAR from odorless...
Jack the Gripper, Trinity's Zip Free, and the TQ compounds are also completely mislabled as odorless, they just don't smell like Wintergreen. I guess wintergreen is the only offensive chemical odor known to man.
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