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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-08-2003, 05:58 AM   #5461
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That is the new IRS front end and it is around $70 off of their website www.teamirsrc.com

The reflex 12 was run at the Cleveland US Indoor Champs as well as a few people had them at the first round of the USTC at The Gate. As was said within the last page or two...

The Reflex 12 is decent car, however, what the factory guys are doing to them is nothing like the box stock car, which is rather out to lunch from what I have heard and seen (i have two trinity drivers at my home track). Unless you really feel a need to have the blue chassis, than I would just suggest just buying a RugRat or Quad12 if you want a dialed t-bar car.

BTW, MikeD who is normally on this forum runs the RugRat (and those are pictures of his car), so I would PM him if you have any questions, since he knows his stuff.
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Old 12-08-2003, 06:40 AM   #5462
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Trinity has their usual mountain of ads in RCCA...and for January they have photos instead of CAD renderings of the Reflex 12...

you can find this on page 8 if you have the magazine...if not...just wander down to your local book, convenience or hobby shop pick up the issue and take a peek...sorry..no scanner here
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Old 12-08-2003, 07:19 AM   #5463
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What kind of changes/mods are the factory guys doing to the Reflex 12? I am picking mine up from the LHS this afternoon.
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Old 12-08-2003, 08:33 AM   #5464
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just in case you have not seen their chassis.
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~kmodels/m300kai-text01.htm
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:11 AM   #5465
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lem2- What kind of 12th scale is that? It says Kai on it, however I just thought that they made a 12l chassis. The shock and front end look like nice alternitives to the AE ones.

dway- They moved the damper tubes (CRC, Speedmerchant or IRS ones, since the stock bolink ones dont have enough dampening) to the top of the chassis, used an AE antenna mount to change the shock position, I think some are running a spring steel t-bar, not sure about what roll center people are liking on the front end or what front springs. Not sure on center spring. For tires, I know people have tried purple, cyan and tan fronts, tan's I heard at cleveland were a little much, either purples or cyan's if you need steering. Rear's granite, grey or pink. Thats mostly what I know of, Mark Smyka who has posted on this thread had his car pretty good at cleveland, top of the A in stock! So I would talk to him to find a good stock set up.

Also stock up on front arms if you can find em, since they break and are impossible to find. Also the front springs are different than the normal AE ones, so make sure to pick up alot of those as well (since like all 12th scale springs, they dont last forever). Also hopefully they finally got all of the parts included in the kits, the cars that their team drivers got were missing some parts however, i think they have everything for the kit.
Also guys I am pretty sure are running AE t-bars if they are running fiberglass ones since trinity t-bars are hard to find.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:14 AM   #5466
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If a BLUE chassis IS what you're after, the RugRat is available in blue. I've seen Mike D's and the RugRat Blue looks better, IMO. The Trinity blue looks a bit more "candy-like".
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Old 12-08-2003, 12:16 PM   #5467
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picco 007 here is a pic of a quad 12

(most of you guys already have seen it , trying to save grief of seeing it again.)
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Old 12-08-2003, 02:58 PM   #5468
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as for changes in the car almost everything that we had to fix (because we go pre production cars )have been fixed .. iwould suggest getting new tubes we tried everything in them and the only thing we could get close was losi brown diff grease .. but as for front arms i have not broken one yet it must bee those boys from mass. (heck they even broke chassies hahaha).. as for moving the shock mount most of just like it better forward it gives the car more steering so we dont have to run as much in the raido
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Old 12-08-2003, 04:31 PM   #5469
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedxl
picco 007 here is a pic of a quad 12

(most of you guys already have seen it , trying to save grief of seeing it again.)
How thick is that chassis
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Old 12-08-2003, 05:50 PM   #5470
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Quote:
Originally posted by The one
How thick is that chassis
The Quad12 chassis is cut from .090" carbon fiber. The carbon fiber I use is high quality, US made and very stiff.

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Old 12-08-2003, 08:12 PM   #5471
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Doug does use very high quality graphite because I have yet to see a 12l3 chassis that is a perfict .090" all the way across.

Also not having to tape the batts is sweet. I lost steering on friday and hit a wall very hard and the cells don't move.
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:42 PM   #5472
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Default IRS Rug Rat owners

A couple local racers asked me to cut some better battery locators to replace the breakage prone locators on the Rug Rat chassis. The PRC battery locators are cut from .062" blue G10 fiberglass. One end is widened to minimize breakage, place this end toward the front. The locators will work with your existing screws. $6.00 a pair, shipping to a US address included.

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Old 12-09-2003, 01:43 AM   #5473
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Default CRC block style front end

Would someone tell me what a block style front end is? I have a CK3.1, is that block style front end? Thanks.
Ron
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Old 12-09-2003, 01:57 AM   #5474
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Quote:
Originally posted by smyka
as for changes in the car almost everything that we had to fix (because we go pre production cars )have been fixed .. iwould suggest getting new tubes we tried everything in them and the only thing we could get close was losi brown diff grease .. but as for front arms i have not broken one yet it must bee those boys from mass. (heck they even broke chassies hahaha).. as for moving the shock mount most of just like it better forward it gives the car more steering so we dont have to run as much in the raido
Have you tried the Coraly (Damper Syrup, EXTRA HARD # 80002) in the tubes on the Reflex 12

Last edited by alf.skaar; 12-09-2003 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 12-09-2003, 04:04 AM   #5475
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Block front is the old style or Old Skool front end from Assocaited. Not the new style reactive caster front end. (on your 3.1)

Old Skool as it is called is $20.00 complete, has no adjustments for caster and camber built in to it. I think it comes pre set with -2 caster and -1.5 camber. It can be adjusted with shims on the bottom where it mounts to the car. Tapered shims were available, but i don't know if they still are. This front end would be more consistant. Maybe less agressive.

David L please correct me if I am wrong.
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