R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-21-2016, 07:18 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


Print Wikipost

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-04-2003, 05:21 AM   #5416
Tech Master
picco007's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,734
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default Thanks

Originally posted by alf.skaar
Look at the picture


Thanks for the picture. My car has the shock mount higher on a plastic mount that looks like an associated type antenna and shock mount. Hmmm.......I will have to get in touch with someone where I can get the correct gear. Do you know of who I can get this stuff from besides superior hobbies. I called them yesterday and they told me that they didn't have the conversion kit in stock.


Thanks for your reply also. I will have to try that for this weekend. ...thanks.

picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 05:42 AM   #5417
Tech Addict
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ridin my Harley
Posts: 707
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Adam Hartzell

Call Larry's @ 586-997-4840. I was just there on Tuseday and they had all the parts you should need. Or you can try their web site. www.larrysperformancercs.com The online store is new and dosen't have a whole lot of stuff.
Adam Hartzell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 06:01 AM   #5418
Tech Master
picco007's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,734
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default Thanks Adam

Thanks for the info....

picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 07:04 AM   #5419
Tech Adept
Eddie M's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 204
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Anyone know the part number of the aluninum post that sit behide the tweak plate?
Eddie M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 07:15 AM   #5420
Tech Master
stormperson's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson

On what car?
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 07:58 AM   #5421
Tech Champion
rayhuang's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang

Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
Ray--Where did you find the Niftech stuff. Larry has tried to order it but it never comes in.
The Hobbyshop owners at my track buy direct from Ray at NIFTECh who is in Mentor, Ohio.
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 08:37 AM   #5422
Tech Fanatic
P2's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oahu, Hi
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default 12L3??

On asphalt are you guys using the stock front/trailing axles or the inline axles? also for 4 cell mod do you have to run a receiver pack?
TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
P2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 10:01 AM   #5423
Tech Adept
Eddie M's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 204
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)

ooops. It is the SP 12M with damper tube conversion. my car doesn't has the aluninum post like they show in the "http://www.corally.com/newimages/shockabsorber.jpg" picture.

Last edited by Eddie M; 12-04-2003 at 12:23 PM.
Eddie M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 02:24 PM   #5424
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 56
Default Best body


I habe buyed a Corally 12M and I need a body. Wich ist the best body?
martinm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 03:36 PM   #5425
Tech Elite
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876

on my quad 12 i use the inline blocks P2
Attached Images
File Type: jpg dscf0008 (2).jpg (66.0 KB, 246 views)
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 03:52 PM   #5426
Tech Adept
F1-Fanatic's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Forest Hills, NY
Posts: 158


It's hard to say what the "best" body is but a lot of the 12th scalers are running the "light weight "Parma Speed 8.

F1-Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 08:32 PM   #5427
Tech Master
davepull's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Orange Park, Florida
Posts: 1,180

from my experience in 12th scale the parma speed 8 is the best i have used so far. the new trinity one looks cool and I haven't seen josh's 12th body yet.

i just got the irs rug rat andy set up sugestions?
davepull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 09:05 PM   #5428
Tech Master
Speedie's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,844

I have a question? Why dare so many drivers use reciever packs in 12th scale? Is there that much difference?
www.victoryhobbies.com Greenbay, Wisconsin
Speedie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2003, 09:08 PM   #5429
Tech Elite
Brian McGreevy's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,060
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Brian McGreevy Send a message via Yahoo to Brian McGreevy

In mod, yes
USVTA Member #211
Yokomo BD7 (Mod TC), Corally Phi '07 (VTA)

Support Formula SAE - get kids into engineering!
Brian McGreevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2003, 04:05 AM   #5430
Tech Master
stormperson's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to stormperson

The parma speed 8 is defently "the body". When Baker ran josh's body at cleveland i heard he thought it was kinda twitchy and hard to drive.

the trinity body is pretty close to the parma except the cockpit is slightly diferrent, but just enough to prevent a lawsuit, lol. The lightweight parma is lighter than the lightweight trinity though.

and get a few, 12th scale bodies are disposable, lol. just make sure not to run a really beat up body, you can chunk tires (because in a hit the body digs into the tire), break more parts and the car will handle really poorly with a beat up body. to make them last longer i use servo tape and spare lexan to beef up the front of the body where it would hit the chassis and create bumps. and I also take shoo goo and put it in the wheel wells to keep them from breaking. However make sure to only use a little and that it doesnt interfere with the travel of the wheel.
R/C Excitement Special Projects Coordinator
Kwik | Speedmerchant | Parma PSE | KO Propo
Team Pickles
stormperson is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:26 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0