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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-03-2003, 01:19 PM   #5401
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Quote:
Originally posted by disaster999
HOLY SH!T 370 bucks for the car? i have the CRC conversionthe IRS rear pod! and it cost only a fraction of that price!
You can get them a lot cheaper than that- RC4LESS.com has them - http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/17/cat17.htm?2920

I think you can email BArry Hill at HD and get them from him cheaper too. If he asks, tell him Jason said to give you a good deal or I'll tell the whole R/C world that I drive a HD car and then NOBODY will buy one!!! LMAO!!!
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Old 12-03-2003, 01:20 PM   #5402
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Grey fronts are softer than Purples, firmer than double pinks. Like CRC stated the greys don't get hot and, and gain grip through the run like the purples do, and they don't have as much "up front" traction as the double pinks. Should make for a good all around front tire.
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Old 12-03-2003, 02:32 PM   #5403
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Thanks Cypress. My car needs a little more front bite (plus the other benefits are cool), so I might look at these.
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Old 12-03-2003, 04:45 PM   #5404
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Quote:
Any chance you want to let us know what frank did for set-up and motor and rollout? he had the absolute fastest 12th scale I saw all weekend long in his A-Main Masters slaughtering!!! He had momo out the ying-yang and his car just flew through the corners like a slot car. It was very impressive to watch.
Thanks for the kind words Ray....

Frank's CK 3.2 + Motor Setup

CRC CK 3.2, large "D" ring diff, new batt hooks, new standoffs.

Block style front end
20 front springs
1 degree caster shim
CRC grey front tires, 1/3 traction inside front

Copper center spring 60 weight oil
White side springs .040" preload
CRC Tube Lube Heavy
CRC grey rear tires

Rollout was 1.63 - 1.67"/rev (should of been around 1.60).... green springs, full CRC Xtreme Silver Brushes and a .2910 comm size.

Motor drew 15.7 amps with a fan at 3 volts on a GFX.

**********************
Quote:
CRC, are the new grey fronts harder or softer than purples? if you change from purples, will you have to dial in or out steering from the car?
The new grey fronts are about 39 shore. Typically, purples are about 45. Not only are the shores different, but the rubber is very different. In the end, you use about 1/3 tire traction compound on the greys whereas 1/2 is common for the purples. Also, take a touch of dual rate out. The car will stay balanced better than purple/magenta/double pink as the grey fronts change during the run at a similar rate as the grey or white rear tires.
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Old 12-03-2003, 06:00 PM   #5405
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Default CRC

Thanks!! It appears from bench racing after the Champs I was overgeared all weekend long. I rolled out 1.69 to 1.172". I always felt I needed more rip from corner to corner, but didnt have the nerve to gear it down two teeth!!! Didnt seem right!!!

Now I realize the error in my ways!! hahaha!! My best motor drew about 9amps at 2v on a Pulsar, but a Pulsar can vary the voltage to keep amp draw numbers within reason I think. My roomates Pulsar sounded like it was running motors at 0.5 volt even when you cranked it to 4volts!!! Weird charger.
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Old 12-03-2003, 06:31 PM   #5406
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Ray if I remember correctly that voltage issue was a very comon problem with the first generation Pulsars. In fact I think I remember reading that they will fix it or load the new software for free. Might call... ask for Billy E- he'll hook you up.

One question- when CRC says block style front end, is he referring to the stock Dynamic AE front end with the parallel upper blocks?
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Old 12-03-2003, 06:39 PM   #5407
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing
Ray if I remember correctly that voltage issue was a very comon problem with the first generation Pulsars. In fact I think I remember reading that they will fix it or load the new software for free. Might call... ask for Billy E- he'll hook you up.

One question- when CRC says block style front end, is he referring to the stock Dynamic AE front end with the parallel upper blocks?
Thanks-thats what I thought on the Pulsar. Works great besides that.

ON the front end-I thnk its the "old Skool" frnt end by his comment of using 1* shims. YOu only do that on the old front end.

I also experimented a week before the Champs with a very soft set-up with soft front springs and soft front tires and harder rear tires when the bite was super high at the track. It WAS faster-no doubt about it, but it was hard to drive. I should have run it in the 4th round and threw caution to the wind.
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Old 12-03-2003, 08:15 PM   #5408
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just curious what kind of tire traction where you guys using
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:03 PM   #5409
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davepull-I ran Niftech all weekend long. Most ran Paragon.
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:12 PM   #5410
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I run the rug down here in Jacksonville and we rent a building in a church so any smelling tire traction is out (paragon). I started running Jack the gripper but it did weird stuff through out the race I have switch to zipfree but am looking for something more like paragon. Did anybody run trc cyan fronts in cleveland? i have a couple of sets for snowbirds.
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:30 PM   #5411
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Ray--Where did you find the Niftech stuff. Larry has tried to order it but it never comes in.
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Old 12-03-2003, 10:15 PM   #5412
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Default Sorry to change the subject.

I wanted to know if there were some people on this forum that have the corally sp12m car with the dampner tube conversion? I'm having some problems with the antenna mount which also is the mount for the mono shock. That mount is pushing down on my t plate at the bottom of the car and I don't know if that should be right. I bought the car used so I have no idea how that is supposed to work. I would appreciate any feedback.
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Old 12-04-2003, 01:20 AM   #5413
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Look at the picture
http://www.corally.com/newimages/shockabsorber.jpg

Alf
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Old 12-04-2003, 02:13 AM   #5414
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My car are so light that when I use a personal transponder and Sanyo 3300 batteries I have to put 77 grams off lead on the car

Han where are the best place to put it front rear?

I currently running IRS Rug Rat, but I run CRC, Rev 3., SP12M

I m looking for maximum steering

Alf :-)
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Old 12-04-2003, 02:54 AM   #5415
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Default Re: Sorry to change the subject.

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
I wanted to know if there were some people on this forum that have the corally sp12m car with the dampner tube conversion? I'm having some problems with the antenna mount which also is the mount for the mono shock. That mount is pushing down on my t plate at the bottom of the car and I don't know if that should be right. I bought the car used so I have no idea how that is supposed to work. I would appreciate any feedback.
I recently bought the SP12M with the damper tube conversion and have the same issue. I ended up mounting the antenna rod next to the tweek screw holes on the receiver/right side of the chassis.

This does mean that the antenna rod is not central on the chassis. Not run the car yet to find if this makes any difference or not
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