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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-02-2003, 06:42 PM   #5386
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I've blown-up 2 SX-9s this year alone. And I still can't figure out who to send them to. I'm sticking with the Quantum 2.
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Old 12-02-2003, 07:16 PM   #5387
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I bought my Quantum comp 2 from tower (they had limited quanity) friday before cleveland and had it shipped over night for monday. installed it in my mod 12th without all the crap and ran well with it. I'm no "A"main driver but it was good at cleveland. although I don't think I could tell anything different from the Quantum comp 1. like I said no "A"main driver. but you can't get the Quantum Comp 1 anymore unless someone has old stock. trust me I tried. I have one Quatum Comp 1 that's flaky right now and need to send it back so it's like any of the other companies sometimes you get a good one sometimes not. I stopped using Novak back in the late 80's because my novak blew up for no reason. won't now because the GT7 is tooo freaking big! although like said, the atom is good if you can find one. went to tekin and only blew thoses up when I wired it backwards.... doh! been LRP for the last couple years even though I still use a Tekin G9 in my touring car. you can't blow it up even with my 6x2 fantom D5. trust me I tried!
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Old 12-02-2003, 08:50 PM   #5388
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
I've blown-up 2 SX-9s this year alone. And I still can't figure out who to send them to. I'm sticking with the Quantum 2.
You need to send it to Horizon Hobby, they take care of repairs for GM's here in the States.
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Old 12-02-2003, 09:40 PM   #5389
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Adam are you blowing them up or sending them into to Thermal Shutdown which is 135 degree's on that esc.
Nice esc's but cant be overheated.
I absolutely love the V12XC's and the new Sx12's.
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Old 12-02-2003, 10:14 PM   #5390
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I am using a cyclone in my 12th scale, or was, and I will be when I get a my reflex 12 . If I needed to get a new 12th scale ESC it would be the quantum 2, those things look sweet. Also the water proofing is nice to make sure my speedo doesn't fry in all those puddles on the carpet . My track has them in stock now too.

I wish I were at cleveland to pick up a reflex 12, when mine comes in at my local shop it will probably cost ~230 or so I think. But I might be able to get a discount . Anybody have any ideas on what extra parts to get for the reflex 12? Is the front end the same as the previous trinity 1/12 scale? Thanks
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Old 12-03-2003, 05:06 AM   #5391
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TexRacer--I'm actually blowing them up.
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Old 12-03-2003, 05:43 AM   #5392
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racerdx- I would not suggest getting a reflex 12 unless you are really buddy buddy with a good trinity driver at your track you has the car dialed.

There are two trinity drivers who race at my track and another two (both made the A main in cleveland one in stock and the other in mod) with the car who i know, and trust me when i say that the car is set up nothing like stock. And unless you have someone to go off of, it is going to be near impossible to get the thing to work well, since alot of the stuff that they are doing isnt normal adjustments.

And it is the same front end as previous Trinity 12th scales.
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Old 12-03-2003, 06:58 AM   #5393
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K adam simply get ahold of Horizon Hobbies return department.They are really cool to deal with or were when I had to on one GMv12.

To Racerdx I second the motion to stay as FARRRR away from the trinity car as possible.The guys who do well with that car run parts you CANT unless your buddy with someone.
Go with a Rev3 from SpeedMerchant or a CRC car.
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Old 12-03-2003, 08:27 AM   #5394
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I would like to add that I recently purchased the Hyperdrive 12th scale car and I love it. It's based on the 12L3 but has some really nice upgrades including the large D-ring IRS type diff. Nashracer and Tempest2000 will verify that even though it didn't have much of a driver, the car was really good the first time it touched the track. In fact, I finished building it and setting the tweak as they called for the first round of qualifying!!! LOL
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:37 AM   #5395
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got any sites or detail info about the Hyperdrive car?
thanks
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:57 AM   #5396
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Here's the Hyperdrive link...

http://www.hyperdriveracing.com/12scale/
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Old 12-03-2003, 10:10 AM   #5397
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HOLY SH!T 370 bucks for the car? i have the CRC conversionthe IRS rear pod! and it cost only a fraction of that price!
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Old 12-03-2003, 10:41 AM   #5398
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Hey gang..

Just a quick note on a few items of interest here on RC Tech...

First, thanks to all the kind people at the US Indoor Champs.... another fantastic race. Great racing, good fun and intense competition. Can't wait til next year!

To comment on a couple of questions here on the forum..

We do make our own large "D" ring diff. CRC was the first to bring "D" rings to pan cars in 1998.

The large "D" graphite axle is made to our specs. The hubs and other diff parts again are completely unique and very light. Only CRC uses the unflanged inner bearing in the diff hub. Also, our hubs are scalloped on both the wheel and diff ring sides, light and true. Our anodized hub is double machined for that 2-tone trick factory look.

With regard to the 1/12th wheels...

CRC designed the new 1/12th white dished wheel for great looks and extreme stregth. We feel we have the toughest 1/12th wheels on the market. Are they a bit heavier? Maybe a little, but this is very insignificant and proof is in the results. Both the 1st and 2nd finisher in stock at Cleveland used CRC tires and wheels. Vicky Blackstock and Jeff Dayger had no problems turning the fastest laps of the weekend during the main. In master's, Frank again used the white dished wheels to T.Q. and win.

Nothing worse than plunking down good money for a set of tires and cracking the rim on the first run, rendering all that good foam useless. Because of the cone extending right to the rims edge, we feel our rims are the most resistant to this type of failure.

Now... if we could only stop the rubber from chunking..... hhhmmm

Also new at the Champs.. CRC grey fronts. CRC is first to bring grey front tires to the market. Both Jeff and Frank used Grey compound front tires at the Champs in the A-main. The tires do not pick up extra grip during the run like purple, magenta or double pink. Because the grey fronts are in the same "family" of rubber as grey or white rears, they exhibit similar qualities during the run, keeping the car balanced from start to finish.

Thanks the the RC Tech folks for this great 1/12th forum.

Thanks,
CRC

If you can drive 1/12th scale, you can drive anything.
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Old 12-03-2003, 11:26 AM   #5399
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Any chance you want to let us know what frank did for set-up and motor and rollout? he had the absolute fastest 12th scale I saw all weekend long in his A-Main Masters slaughtering!!! He had momo out the ying-yang and his car just flew through the corners like a slot car. It was very impressive to watch.
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Old 12-03-2003, 12:48 PM   #5400
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CRC, are the new grey fronts harder or softer than purples? if you change from purples, will you have to dial in or out steering from the car?
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