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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-01-2003, 04:28 PM   #5356
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hey guys,
what servos are able to screw into the new reflex 12. I got one but I am not crazy about gluing my jr servo to the chasis or driling holes in it

thanks
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:33 PM   #5357
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
Does anyone know offhand the proper diameter for the upper suspension hinge pins on the Associated front end...

I'm trying to find a source for the YOK style pins to replace the bent pins that came with my carpet knife and the battery died on my caliper!!
HGI makes them, at towerhobbies
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:37 PM   #5358
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The pins that came with the knife are not bent, but merly poorly made. They all have a bugle at one end that you have to dremel. I am pretty sure that the pins are 2mm (or at least thats what the yok ones are).
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Old 12-01-2003, 04:43 PM   #5359
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Is the reflex 12 out now? I have one ordered but have not heard from the hobby shop that it is in.
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:00 PM   #5360
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Thanks guys...

I'm in Canada..so if I order from Tower I get raped by UPS on brokerage fees...

when I said bent pins, I meant bent into an L-shape....as supplied from Associated....so I'll disregard the CRC/poorly made comment...

Thank you for the measurement info of 2mm for the Yokomo...I'm going to see if I can source some Mould ejector pins from the local tool&mould supply shops..they're a consumable for the plastic injection molding industry and are available in a variety of sizes for reasonable prices...locally available + inexpensive + hardened/durable/tight tolerances = worth a try!
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:04 PM   #5361
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They had Reflex 12's for sale at Cleveland...even comes in a fancy little bag!!

It was a nice lookign kit, although I was a little surprised at how the demo unit they had on display had the fiberglass T-plate de-laminating around the tweak screws..looked like it would give out in a hurry..or that the screws were placed to near the edge of the plate??

Did anyone else notice this?
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:12 PM   #5362
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
Thanks guys...

I'm in Canada..so if I order from Tower I get raped by UPS on brokerage fees...

when I said bent pins, I meant bent into an L-shape....as supplied from Associated....so I'll disregard the CRC/poorly made comment...

Thank you for the measurement info of 2mm for the Yokomo...I'm going to see if I can source some Mould ejector pins from the local tool&mould supply shops..they're a consumable for the plastic injection molding industry and are available in a variety of sizes for reasonable prices...locally available + inexpensive + hardened/durable/tight tolerances = worth a try!
Try using 2mm drill bits, cut down of course.
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:21 PM   #5363
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I'll keep that in mind if I can't find the ejector pins...

Looking at the IRS adjustable front end setup, it looks like they use ejector pins too...the flare on the end was nearly identical...

I'll definitely use the drill idea if I can't source them though...

One thing that is easily overlooked in this hobby....most components are standard industrial products....if you buy them from industrial suppliers it makes the hobby much more affordable. This is not to say that you shouldn't support your LHS....just the opposite!! the drawback is that a lot of indsutrial components..like fasteners are sold in larger lots...

I was able to direct my LHS to a local fastener supplier, who is setting up cabinets at the shop so that we the hobbiest can get teh fasteners we need, at reduced prices since the LHS gets them without having to go through 3 or 4 other middle-men

another example....at a tooling supplier it is only $1.70 Cdn for 36" of 2mm drill rod....I'm goign to go out on a limb and guess that the HGI or Yok parts are considerably more...I'm still going to look for the ejector pins though...it would be nice to have that flange on one end...
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:04 PM   #5364
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yeah I picked my reflex up at clevelend
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:08 PM   #5365
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How much were they selling them for?
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:51 PM   #5366
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like 190 with a set of trued down tires
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:19 PM   #5367
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Windsorguy99, you are correct. I buy my carbide lathe bits (~$3.50) this way as opposed to ~20 something.

Stainless 4-40s and M3 screws are about .10 to .20 each at an industrial supplier, rather than 0.40 or 0.50 each at LHS.

Most of the common stuff is just industrial parts repackaged at a 200% markup.
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:20 PM   #5368
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sorry to interrupt you guys, but wanted to ask a quick question her ein this thread. I want to dabble a bit in 1/12 and have a lead on a rc12L......is this worth messing with or should I get something newer? Is it possible to upgrade the parts to a 12L3 or are the parts not compatable? BTW, plan to run short track carpet.
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:33 PM   #5369
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As a guess, I'd say that it will work fine. Though your rear end will not be as good as a newer model. You'll be a bit slower in the corners.

You will also want to replace the bearings, and possibly the axle as well.

Piecing a 12L3 together will probably cost as much as a new one.
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:39 PM   #5370
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I'll sell you one cheap....I have 3

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