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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-01-2003, 09:12 AM   #5341
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Default Re: IRS Pro Diff

Quote:
Originally posted by aracer
Does anyone have experience with this diff?, and if so is it worth the $50
I'm not sure which diff you're referring to, but the "Large Diff Ring Assembly" (PN# IRS2132) http://www.teamirsrc.com/axles.html is highly recommended!!!

It has an extremely smooth diff action even with the diff locked down. The need for maintainence has been significantly reduced.

If you take a look at many of the new 1/12th kits being released (Carpet Knife 3.2 & Trinity ???), you'll notice that they are now offering a large diff kit (I don't know if they are made by IRS, though). The large diff is a worth while upgrade, IMO.
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:16 AM   #5342
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I agree with Geppetto..

The IRS large diff is worth every penny.
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Old 12-01-2003, 10:31 AM   #5343
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im having problems with my diff, i have the AE diff and after about 2 days of racing, my diff is already really gritty and not smooth. just wondering if thats normal since everyone;s diff is almost like that.
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Old 12-01-2003, 11:19 AM   #5344
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Thanks nikos and Geppeto, what about the o-ring diffs?
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Old 12-01-2003, 11:22 AM   #5345
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losi kid the yokomo car is a good car esspecially on asphalt low bite situations the car has alot of flex designed into it for that reason i used the car to finish 6th in 12th stock at the asphalt nationals .
as far as carpet since your starting out with it you'll be ok once you get to the point where you are consisstantly fast you will want to look into a stiffer car like the quad twelve which is a direct conversion for that car!
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Old 12-01-2003, 11:32 AM   #5346
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Default Laydown steering servo position

What's the advantage of laying down the steering servo on the chassis other than a lower CG, as oppose to mounting it on the servo mount? Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2003, 11:35 AM   #5347
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IRS makes diffs and axles for CRC
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Old 12-01-2003, 12:09 PM   #5348
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Guys - IRS supplies axles to CRC and Trinity. The Trinity axle is to the specs supplied by Trinity, while CRC is using the standard axle IRS supplies for the Associated conversions. The hubs and other differential parts for the Trinity application are not made by IRS, any longer.

Someone asked about the O-ring diffs and here is my experience. I first became familiar with them while running for Corally. Once I learned how to prepare the parts and assemble them, I was very pleased with their characteristics and performance. I found you must take great care in cleaning any oils, including oil from your skin, from the o-rings and the parts they contact. After that, I felt this diff design was the best at placing equally shared loads between all the balls and the rings. I learned it was critical to sand the rings totally flat with 600 wet/dry paper. You can use one of the hubs to hold the ring and move it in a figure 8 patern, just as you lap flatness into any surface. I also learned you can take a sharp knife and scratch little x's into the grove where the o-ring will fit. That will also help it to grip the flange or the hub. But, when prepared and assembled well, the diff will perform reliably and smoothly for a long time. Good luck.

Last edited by davidl; 12-01-2003 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 12-01-2003, 12:14 PM   #5349
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Default CRC Track Magnet wheels/foam

Can anyone comment on the "quality" of these wheels? I've been using the Jaco (purple front/gray rear), and they work, but last week I broke one of my rear wheels (piece chipped out, and wheel completely cracked) after only a couple of qualifiers and a main. I've had several front wheels with cracked lips too.

I realize not hitting the boards would prevent this, but I'm not that good.

I believe the CRC wheels use the Jaco foam, so there shouldn't be a difference there. I also realize that the CRC wheels are probably slightly heavier.
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Old 12-01-2003, 01:23 PM   #5350
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They are slightly heavier, but I run them with good results. However, if chipping the outside lip is what you are trying to avoid, they aren't going to help but a little. They will chip when hit hard enough. Still, I like them a lot. I haven't tried the new Jaco white wheel- I've heard it is better than the gray, plus I liek white MUCH better!! LOL

Almost forgot- Disaster999- your diff might be a little gritty, but I bet it's the outside hub bearing. They only need about 3-4 licks on the rear wheel and they are cruuunchy!!. You might consider getting some ceramic hub bearings from rc4less.com . I hear they last much longer and take more abuse. I'm going to order a set for my car in the next week or so.
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Old 12-01-2003, 02:18 PM   #5351
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Default Re: Laydown steering servo position

Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
What's the advantage of laying down the steering servo on the chassis other than a lower CG, as oppose to mounting it on the servo mount? Thanks.
If you lay the servo down it will give you more steering in hairpins. If you stand it up it will help with high speed turns.

Make sure that if you lay it down you remove all bump-steer.
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Old 12-01-2003, 02:21 PM   #5352
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Default Re: Re: Laydown steering servo position

Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
If you lay the servo down it will give you more steering in hairpins. If you stand it up it will help with high speed turns.

Make sure that if you lay it down you remove all bump-steer.
Thanks Adam. How do you remove all bum-steer? What happens if bump steer not removed.

Ron
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Old 12-01-2003, 02:29 PM   #5353
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Default Re: Re: Re: Laydown steering servo position

Quote:
Originally posted by Blue Sky
Thanks Adam. How do you remove all bum-steer? What happens if bump steer not removed.

Ron
To remove bump-steer make sure that the tie-rods are parallel with the ground when the car is at ride height.

What bump-steer does is when the suspension compresses the wheel will turn more. This makes the car very hard to drive.

I always mount my servo flat as most carpet tracks are very fast yet tight and techical.
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Old 12-01-2003, 02:34 PM   #5354
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Sorry I havent posted in a while... just got back from Cleveland...

The new Jaco wheels are better than the older ones (the molds) however, the new tires have harder foams for the same compound, which isnt and issue, its just different.

DavidL- Nice seeing you again in Cleveland! BTW, I am planning on picking up a set of the IRS castor blocks for 12th scale. How does changing the hole in the arm affect the car? Also are you coming to the January Jam?
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Old 12-01-2003, 03:19 PM   #5355
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Does anyone know offhand the proper diameter for the upper suspension hinge pins on the Associated front end...

I'm trying to find a source for the YOK style pins to replace the bent pins that came with my carpet knife and the battery died on my caliper!!
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