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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 11-29-2003, 11:55 PM   #5326
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i just ditched my(2) 94145 for (3) 9602 futaba. couldn't get the 94145 to center but the 9602 does.
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 11-30-2003, 05:22 PM   #5327
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Anyone know who has some spring steel t-bars in stock?
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Old 11-30-2003, 06:14 PM   #5328
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Default Yokomo YRX 12 Worlds Edition

Hi Guys this is my first 12th scale car.

I only race touring so i thought id give this ago also.

Does Anybody know if this is a good car? What are peoples thoutghts on this car??

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Old 11-30-2003, 06:17 PM   #5329
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Why yes I do..but I'm not sure if they do mail order,They have most of the "trick" parts for a 12L3.
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Old 11-30-2003, 06:19 PM   #5330
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Where is that??
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Old 11-30-2003, 07:25 PM   #5331
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Default Assoc rc12 L3

Where can you get one on-line at?? Also a good place on line that sells 1/12 scale stuff? THANKS
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Old 11-30-2003, 07:27 PM   #5332
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You race at mike's??
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Old 11-30-2003, 08:09 PM   #5333
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Default Re: Yokomo YRX 12 Worlds Edition

Originally posted by LOSI KID
Hi Guys this is my first 12th scale car.

I only race touring so i thought id give this ago also.

Does Anybody know if this is a good car? What are peoples thoutghts on this car??

Car choice it more a personal preference (so it seams). 1/12 scale is more about driver skill then any other class. Both on the track and in car setup. WHICH car you run probably only matters at the highest levels of skill.

There are some used Carpet knives, and a few 12l3 for sale on ebay right now. The Yok is one of the more expensive cars out there. IMHO, for a first time 1/12th scaler, a used car would be a better choice.

I race both TC and 1/12th, TC is a lot of fun, but more thuggish, if that is a good word to use. In 1/12th you will rarely see contact with cars. Much more a pure skill game then TC.

I'm not an expert in 1/12th (or TC for that matter) but the fast guys I race with, will probably agree.

Buy used. Until you can get within 5 laps of the good drivers at your track, don't spend the money. (IMHO)
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Old 11-30-2003, 08:31 PM   #5334
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Default birdy-ygm

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Old 12-01-2003, 04:48 AM   #5335
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Default RC12L4

I have heard that Associated are releasing an RC12L4 next year.
Main difference is that the car will be set up for 4 cell racing only with an optional chassis for 6 cell racers.
Anyone got any more information ?
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:06 AM   #5336
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Default IRS Pro Diff

Does anyone have experience with this diff?, and if so is it worth the $50
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:12 AM   #5337
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In the lower mains there is PLENTY of contact with 12th scales...but it's all inadvertent...no one bumps others out of the way....but you'll accidentally clip each other..drive into a wall and bounce into traffic, etc...

You can find a deal on a used 12th scale kit....but thenew ones are not really that expensive, all things considered...

At Cleveland Trinity's new Reflex 12 was $199 and the CRC Carpet knife 3.2 was $225, the difference being the CRC came with purples and greys so you'd have what you need to run carpet...the Reflex to my knowledge had no tires...

What will cost you the money in getting setup is high performance compact electronics, servo, ESC, and Receiver...plus your batteries and motor....

You can save yourself $50-$100 by buying used...but that will give you(most often) an older kit, questionable build quality and an unknown amount of abuse..

If you KNOW someone you trust..then buying used is great..otherwise it's hard to put a price on piece of mind
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:22 AM   #5338
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akrcracer- when I was at Trinity/TRC we experimented with multi-ring for 1/12 for the World's in Japan - seemed like too much work with not as much pay out. It seemed to work better on the larger scales.

Making them yourself with purchased donuts - seems like a good way to do it (with the waxpaper).

I would also have to agree with others who have posted on what car to buy. They are all good, it's the driver that makes them better (or worse)-- I have made some really good cars look really bad.
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:45 AM   #5339
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Default Charging 4 cell packs

How many amps do you guys charge your 4 cell 3300s at? Gonna give 12 scale a try
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:25 AM   #5340
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6 amps
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