R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-27-2003, 08:25 AM   #5296
Tech Champion
 
TimPotter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Boynton Beach Fl > Randoph NJ
Posts: 7,481
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TimPotter
Default

Anyone have comments on Josh's CFX 12th scale ?. The front end, with the carbon arms.
__________________
Clean Title & Escrow|p3|TRF|Tamiya|SerpentAmerica|FSEARA|Team Butter|RC 3|Munno |RCTECH #29|EAMotorsports|BMI|Novak|SpeedPassion|RadioPost

Last edited by TimPotter; 11-27-2003 at 08:33 AM.
TimPotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 08:31 AM   #5297
che
Tech Regular
 
che's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario
Posts: 291
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by TimPotter
Anyone have comments on Josh's CFX 12th scale ?. The fornt end, with the carbon arms.
I got rid of my Corally for that exact reason...
che is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 10:55 AM   #5298
Tech Champion
 
TimPotter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Boynton Beach Fl > Randoph NJ
Posts: 7,481
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to TimPotter
Default

Yeah, I had the same problem with my SP12m, Corally supposedly has some new arms in the works. I really like the car, except for the fact I cannot hit anything.
__________________
Clean Title & Escrow|p3|TRF|Tamiya|SerpentAmerica|FSEARA|Team Butter|RC 3|Munno |RCTECH #29|EAMotorsports|BMI|Novak|SpeedPassion|RadioPost
TimPotter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 11:39 AM   #5299
Ec1
Tech Adept
 
Ec1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 107
Default

Its a RACE car... you arent supossed to hit anything.....
Ec1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 11:47 AM   #5300
che
Tech Regular
 
che's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario
Posts: 291
Default

It is not just hitting anything.
C/F does not always have the tightest tolerances.
The thickness can vary quite a bit within one sheet.
When you are cutting many small arms out of one sheet, the actual thickness of each arm can (and will) differ signifcantly.

So when you receive your 2 arms in the kit (or purchase replacement arms after), chances are they won't be the exact same thickness. This can alter your front suspension from left to right some (one may have more flex than the other).

With my Corally, I used to have to go through multiple amounts of arms to find 2 with similar thicknesses.

Plus the thin ones will break with good contact.
che is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 12:25 PM   #5301
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,053
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by che
Sushi Boy, I would look at the Quad12 conversion for your Yok.
Contact SpeedXL directly about this, he has done this exact conversion.
Ok, will do. Thanks for the help.

-Sushi Boy
__________________
Pro Spec America/Apex RC - Team ORCA - Awesomatix USA - Roche RC USA - AVID - Sweep - Protoform - Pro-One RC - Slapmaster Tools - Hebiki Design Works - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers - Timezone Hobbies
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 12:41 PM   #5302
Tech Adept
 
70mph pan car's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 226
Default

will 2000mah mayched packs dump before 8 minutes when using a stock motor? If i used 1700mah matched packs would they last with the same motor?
70mph pan car is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 12:58 PM   #5303
Tech Champion
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,952
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

If you gear the motor really low you can make runtime, if you want to be competitive in a race you'll need some newer ones
__________________
Official member of The Guild of Calamitous Intent and proud supporter of Conjectural Technologies.
Serpent S411 LE kit #192
RCTech #361
Matt Howard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 05:56 PM   #5304
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,667
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default Corally Arms

Che Posted

"Plus the thin ones will break with good contact"

I am not the cleanest driver as the racers in Denver will tell you. Last year I went through several arms until I made this change.

First the thickness does change from arm to arm. I by 3 pair and match the thickness. Sand the edges of the ourside of the arms and then use super glue on the edge. I have only broken one in the last 10 weeks of racing. (tried a 10 turn mod motor, hit the wall way to hard)

__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 10:31 PM   #5305
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default Airtronics 94145 servo

I have a 94145 servo and I'm getting ready to finally use it. But If I remember correctly, I have to change some wires around to make it work with my JR R-1 radio system. Can someone tell me what I have to do with the wires?? I know I will have to change something. I would appreciate it.

Ronnie
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 10:45 PM   #5306
Tech Elite
 
BigDogRacing's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,955
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BigDogRacing
Default Re: Airtronics 94145 servo

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
I have a 94145 servo and I'm getting ready to finally use it. But If I remember correctly, I have to change some wires around to make it work with my JR R-1 radio system. Can someone tell me what I have to do with the wires?? I know I will have to change something. I would appreciate it.

Ronnie
Look at the wires on your other servo or ESC that is plugged into the receiver. Now make sure the wires on the new servo are in teh same order. For example- black, red, white. If not, just use an Xacto blade and release the pins and put them int he same order.
BigDogRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 10:55 PM   #5307
Tech Master
 
picco007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: TX.
Posts: 1,748
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to picco007 Send a message via Yahoo to picco007
Default thanks

I'll check it tomorrow morning but on this servo there looks to me that there is a red and black wire, a full red wire and a full black wire. So what is confusing me is that I don't know for sure which wire on the servo is the signal, but I know for sure I think that the black is neg and red is pos. right? so does that mean that the dual colored wire is signal? Thanks.
picco007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 03:16 AM   #5308
Regional Moderator
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 2,840
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

hey, would 18 gauge wire be too thin for 1/12?
disaster999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 03:48 AM   #5309
Tech Initiate
 
dandyspashett's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Laleham,UK
Posts: 47
Default Re: Corally Arms

Quote:
Originally posted by Grenade10
Che Posted

"Plus the thin ones will break with good contact"

I am not the cleanest driver as the racers in Denver will tell you. Last year I went through several arms until I made this change.

First the thickness does change from arm to arm. I by 3 pair and match the thickness. Sand the edges of the ourside of the arms and then use super glue on the edge. I have only broken one in the last 10 weeks of racing. (tried a 10 turn mod motor, hit the wall way to hard)

the corally fibre arms are like the F1 , light and impact absorbent, in case of a crash, it will break and not harm or tweak the chassis and other parts

every car has pro and con, if you had noticed, the Asso dynamic Front arms, left and right has different height which is even worse, so I had to sand one of them to equal height.
dandyspashett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 05:02 PM   #5310
Tech Master
 
rcmike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: plano,tx
Posts: 1,692
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default team crc bloody knife v3.1

HI, good car for 1/12 scale racing for a newbie that runs 1/8 scale on road to start out racing in 1/12 scale during the cold months?? On web site he sells the tires and parts so thats a big plus cause LHS carries nothing. Whats a good speed control to get,thats one of the best to have?? THANKS
rcmike is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:37 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0