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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 11-26-2003, 02:51 AM   #5281
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This is not a motor forum, BUT.......

Shaving some off the trailing edge will help with amp draw in a race, or in other words make run time. A hole will only help a little so will serrating the brush. All this makes for less brush drag on the com. Shaving a small portion off the trailing edge reduces overlap and makes the best way to make run time. I never had a problem with 3300s anyhow.

I dont' think the brush should be narrower than .140 in a stock motor. .140 is the RECOMENDED width for a MVP stock motor with both side shaved evenly. Only go back a little ways so the brushes stay straight in the holder. (hoods)

We can also run lighter spring tension in 1/12 than the sedans because the amp draw isn't as hard so lighter springs (green/green) can help if arcing is not a problem. I usually run red on + and green on - .

To answer your question, I would start with .010 and see if it helps, then maybe .015" A brush measures .185 to .190 so no more than .020", or .5mm.
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Old 11-26-2003, 04:34 AM   #5282
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Default Re: Re: 1/12th Arbor

Originally posted by Mike D
Geppetto - Yeah, I got an Ofna lathe. The Ofna arbors are awful. The Hudy arbors are a direct fit and work real well.
Mike D: I call Mimi yesterday, and it looks like you got the last Hudy 1/12th arbor. Thus far, I've called about 6 or 7 shops and nobody seems to have them. As a matter of fact, I was told by one shop that they have had them on back order for a while. Oh well!!!
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Old 11-26-2003, 04:51 AM   #5283
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check out rc4less.com They have a universal arbor that some guys at my track use.
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Old 11-26-2003, 04:51 AM   #5284
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check out larrysperformancercs.com They had a pretty good assortment of arbors in stock when I was there on Monday...

I'm not sure if they had a Hudy 12th scale...but it would be worth a try.

Their online shop is still just starting up..so you may be best of contacting them by email or phone to inquire
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:07 AM   #5285
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Thanks guys. I'll give Larry's a call. I knew about the arbor sold by R/C4Less, but after being "burnt" with my purchase of the Ofna arbor, I'm a bit hesitant to try something unknown to me.
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:41 AM   #5286
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You can get the ofna arbor to work fine with some mods to it. A dremel, some shims and assemble the wheel on the arbor before you put it on the truer and you are good to go. I will explain tonight, I must leave for cleveland as we speak.
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Old 11-26-2003, 10:04 AM   #5287
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If I have to buy a motor lathe, what would that be...? My guess is HUDY cause I use them on my nitro cars..........just want to make sure HUDY is the one.

If there are something else that I should consider....please share with me...thanks.

YES....I called HUDY, and almost all the 12th scale items are back ordered....arbor, 12th scale adaptor....etc
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Old 11-26-2003, 10:11 AM   #5288
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Integy make some very very nice lathes
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Old 11-26-2003, 10:14 AM   #5289
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Yes, I use the Integy XIPP X-MOD Super Lathe.
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Old 11-26-2003, 03:29 PM   #5290
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For arbors, also look at the Integy arbors. Their 1/12 is really well done, and fits hudy.
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:32 PM   #5291
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Originally posted by 70mph pan car
do you race a 1/12th cracked? if so what do you use?
I race a 12L3 there was 2 heats of 1/12 last week I'm sure anyone of those guys could help you out.
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Old 11-26-2003, 11:44 PM   #5292
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Hit the Cleveland thread for the CEFX pics. Credit definatley goes out to RCTech.net and NashRCRacer for providing coverage. nash has some photos on his site as well.... Check them out.
Just remember, nothing is free.
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Old 11-27-2003, 12:18 AM   #5293
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I'm planning on getting a new chassis plate for my 1/12, probably a hyperdrive chassis plate ( a really rigid l3 chassis). I currently have a yrx-12 with all the ssg stuff. I race on a super high traction carpet track and I'm curious if it;s really worth getting. It seems like the sgg stuff is stiff already. Might I mention I'm totally new to 1/12.

-Sushi Boy
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Old 11-27-2003, 07:10 AM   #5294
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Sushi Boy, I would look at the Quad12 conversion for your Yok.
Contact SpeedXL directly about this, he has done this exact conversion.
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Old 11-27-2003, 07:24 AM   #5295
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Rookie, you cannot go wrong with a Hudy Lathe. I had an Integy Xipp Mod lathe, and I sold it to buy a Hudy Tech Lathe. The other "Hot Lathe" on the market today is the Fantom. Piece of art, but very expensive. I save almost 100 bucks getting the hudy.
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