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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-12-2002, 02:35 PM   #511
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darnold- I run a 12x2 aurora and a 11x2 fantom Ti, which just plain rips. I don't have that many mods since I am fairly new to the mod scene. For a while I was running a old nasty carpet knife that, well let's just say it had issues or was possesed or something. So I wasn't as worried about the motors and speed as I was the handling. I ditched that thing and am running a rc 12LC now, which is awesome. So now that I've got a car that actually handles like it should, instead of changing tweak every turn I took, it is time to worry about speed. Actually it is past time, because Brustad (ffej) and Mitch wallop me all the time, but that's cause they drive incredibly well, unlike me, I can't seem to stay constistent with a mod yet, it'll come in time, i hope!

back on the mod thing, I have recently been running reedy 733x's I guess they are for single winds though, and 738x's or 728x's I am not sure of the part number. Thanks for your help, i hope I'll see you at the norrca nats! do you know how much the entry fee is. I don't have a norrca membeship either. Thanks
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Old 02-12-2002, 02:56 PM   #512
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darnold,
OK I am off to buy the '02 Spaghetti Edition Switchblade!!!!! now is the Protoform Speed 8 body as good as Cyrul says it is?
IKE
P.S.Do you know of any on-line places that sell the 02 version?

Last edited by FoamDonuts; 02-12-2002 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 02-12-2002, 04:25 PM   #513
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Evening all....1/12 motor question....we are going to start running mod 1/12...i have an 11 double-D4....any suggestions on brushes and springs?????we are running 8 minutes...36' by 60' track...thanks lotsa good info on here.
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Old 02-12-2002, 09:03 PM   #514
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Foam Donuts,


My brother Petenis runs a Speed 8 protoform and he seems to like it. I have heard, however, that it lacks some rear downforce. Petenis runs the Gurney lip on there and he said he can notice the difference. Have you by chance seen the Parma version of the Speed 8? I just picked one up this past weekend and it looks like it should be banned, but I heard that they were used with some success in cleveland this year... They look really swoopy, have a real tall rear spoiler with an option to cut out a spot in the middle for less rear downforce. Definately worth a look. I also have a prototform speed 8 but have not tried it yet.

Dave S
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Old 02-12-2002, 09:40 PM   #515
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Dave,
Thanx for the headsup on the bodies. Anyone have any idear where I can buy the new Switchblade online?
IKE
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Old 02-12-2002, 10:32 PM   #516
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Petenis- Hey how are you doing? Just got back from practice about an hour ago. Concerning your H.P. issues, you probably want to try a 10turn and for that big track up there I geared mine at 24/100 on 1.90" rears (same as 25/100 on 1.85" rears). Mitch can setup an 11turn to run as fast as a 10turn. Brush wise Integy 3%silvers are really good for club racing along with Trinity Dual shunt "e" brushes and Reedy Quasars. Regarding the Kife: Many people don't realize that after every race day or two they should probably take the motor, tweak plate, front tires and rear axle out of the car and re-adjust the side links. This would be done by placing the car on a flat surface and loosening the two nuts on the "football" and then re-tighten them. This makes sure that those one piece links are parallel so that the car can tweak out better. Also, those one piece plastic links should probably be replaced every so often. Since you don't have this car anymore however just remember to change the T-bar out once a month or so and if the car ever starts to handle badly check either the T-bar (look for "stress" marks around the T part) or a bent front axle or King pin.
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Old 02-12-2002, 10:36 PM   #517
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Foams- To my knowledge, could be wrong, Josh runs the Parma Speed 8 body and not the Protoform one although I think he has tried the Protoform one already. I just switched from the standar Protoform P35 to the Parma Speed 8 and there is a HUGE difference. The Speed 8 turns-in noticably better but the car feels more planted than the Protoform P35 does. The results thus far for me are more consistent lap times and the car is a little easier to drive because it is more consistent in how it handles.
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Old 02-12-2002, 10:41 PM   #518
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Foams- Try www.venturehobbies.com (they own my local track here in Illinois). At the track they just brought in a new 02 Trinity TONIGHT! It was $189 I believe and their phone number is on the site if you can't find the car to order. I think they would be able to accomodate a phone order if need be.
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Old 02-12-2002, 10:44 PM   #519
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Dragon S- Try Integy 3% silvers or ASQ's, Trinity "e" brushes for mods or Reedy Quasars. Green Spings with 12deg timing.
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Old 02-13-2002, 04:32 PM   #520
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Darnold...thanks
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Old 02-13-2002, 06:27 PM   #521
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Hey Dave,

Yep, looking forward to Indy. I haven't run full mod yet, just 19T. I'm going to step it up this coming week though. I need some track time before Indy to get my "finger" sorted out. I have my 12L3 setup fairly stiff, .022 front springs, .075 t-bar, 35wt oil, red spring, light Hydra on the pucks. The car turns in pretty hard and carries lots of corner speed with the heavier front springs.

Dragon, how much motor were you thinking of running? I've got some major horsepower and would like to get used to it.
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Old 02-13-2002, 06:28 PM   #522
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So, how is everyone's 12th scale racing going? How fast is everyone compared to the local hotshoe? Has anyone other than Johnny Sako been to any of the U.S. Triple Crown Series races and if so what did you think of them and the competion?
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Old 02-13-2002, 06:37 PM   #523
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.22 front springs! Wow I can't get my car to turn enough with them that's why I use .20's. How much of the front tire are you doping? BTW what's the "mad" hp you have? Is it a Ti or P94? Have you or anyone else tried these and what do you think of them? Oh, Sako, when do you plan to go to Indy for practice? Maybe we can coordinate and run some mod up there because my understanding from them is that if you don't have at least 5 people for a class they won't run it during their normal club racing dates so we may want to show up to one of their open practice dates.
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Old 02-13-2002, 07:04 PM   #524
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darnold,
got my 02 SB on the way, I need a setup for it on Ozite 4-cell mod. Most likely I will end up using one of my TI double motors. I also need an idea on what diameter to turn my tires down and some gearing help. My track is fairly open and flowing with an 85ft straight. What compound as well would help me a ton. I am going with the PROTOFORM Speed 8 body just because it is readily available. Thank you in advance for your help. BTW what speedo are you using? I am thinking of going with the Quantum since I am only pushing around a 1/12 scale and not a big heavy TC.
IKE
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Old 02-13-2002, 07:29 PM   #525
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Foams- Here's my setup If you want it for my 02 Trinity.
4deg Caster, .20 front springs, Trinity Red Stuff in the front pivot balls (4 total). -2deg camber. One .010" spacer under the steering block and .035"-.040" spacer on top of the steering block. No washers behind the front wheels on the axle. Chuck the kingpins in a dremel and spin them for 2sec in the steering blks to smooth things out. You may have to take a reamer like I did and slightly ream out the bottom and top arms so that the pivot balls move freely but aren't loose. Locate the linkage ball studs on the inner hole for the front and outer hole for the rear(front is towards the body post). I am using the Tall ball stud (.390") in the front holes for a high roll center and the medium ball studs (.380")in the rear holes with a .050" shim under each rear ball stud for some reactive caster.

Make sure you get a Thick T-bar either an Associated .075" or the Trinity .074". If you use the Assoc. you will have to use their cups and maybe their balls as well. I put a .014" shim under the rear T-bar ball and a .020" shim under the front T-bar ball. This keeps the T-bar from hitting the chassis and the slight angle gives a little more turn-in. I use Trinity Red Stuff in the damper tube ala Cyrul. You can also try Losi Hydra Light and see what you think. Make sure the dampers move freely in the tubes, one of mine didn't and it took some time to fix it during assembly. I use 3 screws in the T-bar along with a fiberglass spacer (.070" thick) that Assoc used to sell seperate for$2. You can use an old T-bar that you cut off or the 3 plastic spacers in the kit.
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