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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 11-24-2003, 07:42 AM   #5221
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Originally posted by skink

I'll be flying to england this week. Hopefully I can pick up an assortment of tyres and bodies. That way I can find which best suits my track.

What do you reccommend for batteries. It is my understanding that nicds have a higher discharge rate. there by giving the motor a little more punch when compared with nimhd. is this correct or do i have it all wrong.

The latest generation of GP 3300 cells have superior run-time and Volatage when compared with Nicads. The Nicads will have a bit more punch up front, but that quickly dissipates, and the GP cells run faster over the duration of the run.
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:54 AM   #5222
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and GP 3300's are SO much easier to take care of than Nicads, too.
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:17 AM   #5223
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Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
You can always tell if a persoin blows by ya on the stright. At our track even the slowest 1/12 drivers are just as fast on the stright.

Except for Rich , he's faster everywhere !
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:35 AM   #5224
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Hey guys, when you run those little receiver battery packs, do you run 5 cells (6.0V) ? Give me some info on where to get them, the MaH, how many runs you get on each charge, cost, and how you wire them... anything else you can think of, too.

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Old 11-24-2003, 08:45 AM   #5225
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BigDogRacing: Hank has a good deal over on his site...

I run one on mine with mod motors...

I unhooked the RED wire coming from the ESC to the Rx.

Plug in the Rx pack and turn on the ESC switch or you can leave the red wire in, just don't turn on your switch to the ESC....

Some ESC's are different.

It helps alot with the servo also, look at the ratings of your servo with 6v & 4.8v...


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Old 11-24-2003, 08:48 AM   #5226
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Mike D, what brand of springs are those?
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:33 AM   #5227
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disasster 999 i am correct on the tires i ran the yr12 for a year and finished 6th place in the a main at the asphalt nats with it i ran the tires the kit came with and when i needed new ones i got them straight from yokomo i actually ran them on bsr rims because i had tons of them!
and by the way thanks big kats for backing me up.
disasster if you need help or any questions answerd on the yrs 12 let me know.
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Old 11-24-2003, 10:05 AM   #5228
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Default Picture?

Tres, can you post a picture of how you have the little RX pack wire'd up?
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Old 11-24-2003, 10:06 AM   #5229
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Originally posted by stormperson
You probably broke the old Bolink made damper tubes, the new ones will not break, and they are so much better. So just say you upgraded the car, and leave out the part about breaking it.
Sorry to disagree Storm, but I broke the new SM dampers the first day I ran them. I also broke the center of the chassis plate and a few other parts, but please don't say those can't be broken.
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Old 11-24-2003, 10:12 AM   #5230
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demetris this is how mounted the reciver pack next to the servo. plug it into the bec port on the reciver. you also noticed i solderd and xtran conector to hook up the charger its connected in the pic on my quad 12
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Old 11-24-2003, 10:49 AM   #5231
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davidl, don't feel bad I broken one of mine(SM TUBE) in a bad crash too. I know in time with more track time I will not crash as much or hit things.. But I took a close look at SM tubes they are very thin where threaded rod makes up with ball cups.. I repaired it..
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Old 11-24-2003, 11:29 AM   #5232
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Originally posted by skink
Thanks for the info.

Yesturday I ran the standard tyres that come with the associated 12l3. I'm not sure of the brand. But both the front and the rear were greens.

I presently run the parma speed 8 body. I initially it was a bit squirly, so cheated a little and added a little wing. No body cared because i was the only 1/12th in the class.

however, i intend to take the wing off with the view to running the car as it should be set up.

wish me luck.

Greens on the front with soft front springs .018 or less can cause a car to be twitchy to drive and over response on the steering department. shouldn't need a wing on a Parme/Trinity Speed8 body i think if kits came with blue fronts, cars would be easier to drive out of the box. it's easier for new 1/12th drivers to drive a car that pushes than over reacts.

it is hard to convince our newbies to get a set of $19.00 purples (at least ) for the front on their cars when they first show. they want to run the greens until they wear out. green are fine in the rear. 2 that have done this, ended up quiting 12th in less than 3 races, because they couldn't get their cars to handle.
get some
Purple or Cyan fronts

Pink rears
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Old 11-24-2003, 11:53 AM   #5233
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Originally posted by Tres
BigDogRacing: Hank has a good deal over on his site...

I run one on mine with mod motors...
Thanks Tres, so how many runs do you get on one charge? 150 or 160 MaH doesn't seem like much to me...
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Old 11-24-2003, 11:54 AM   #5234
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I am unsure of the availability but you can check with HPI USA to find out about their 1/12.

forummers need to specify track surface with the suggested tuning specs because most run on carpet in the US but I think in Asia or europe at least in my town) we run mostly on aspault, no carpet.

I like twitchy cars.
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Old 11-24-2003, 12:27 PM   #5235
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Bigpup ...... wazzz up dog? Check with Jeff at Promatch. He sells them shrink wraped with the connector type of your choice. The other place is Batteries America they'll build it in your specified config with the connector of your choice as well. As far as run time, I can run 3 packs without any problems. Don't know much beyond that cause I always peak it off before my main and it usually charges for less than 10 min at 1 amp. A new pack will charge for about 30 min at 1 amp on a T30. Give me a call.
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