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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-24-2003, 12:03 AM   #5206
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Default Mod or Stock

Just wondering since I see you guys are talking about racing 12th mod at Larry's...

Where I race 12th scale the current motor rules are ROAR stocks or Street Spec 21's with spec brushes, this is okay but I wonder if it you can offer an opinion as to if you think running mod motors would be cheaper ? Also whats most popular where you guys race mod or stock ?
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Old 11-24-2003, 01:45 AM   #5207
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I have heard and read a lot about problems with the new style front end.
What are the main issues to look at ?
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Old 11-24-2003, 05:05 AM   #5208
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New Style Front End- It was a decently good design, but it is the worst manufactured AE product EVER, lol. The entire thing binds in every pivot point (except for where the delrin balls go in), but the steering knuckles and the hinge pin on the arm binds. The hinge pins are really bad, you have to remove material on them to make them smooth (or better yet get the Yokomo Ti pins which are a different design and work so much better). Also the castor blocks are all different. So you have to shim each side of the front end different to achieve equal castor. It tweaks easy and requires alot of upkeep to make sure that everything stays smooth and correclty adjusted. It can very easily ruin the handling of a perfectly good car. And the little bit of extra steering gained is very rarely worth the effort for most drivers.
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Old 11-24-2003, 05:25 AM   #5209
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Default Re: Mod or Stock

Quote:
Originally posted by SteveG
Just wondering since I see you guys are talking about racing 12th mod at Larry's...

Where I race 12th scale the current motor rules are ROAR stocks or Street Spec 21's with spec brushes, this is okay but I wonder if it you can offer an opinion as to if you think running mod motors would be cheaper ? Also whats most popular where you guys race mod or stock ?
Hey SteveG ,
Larrys is a blast , we have one sometimes two heats of stock 1/12th , on friday and they are running a poker series now on sunday with some great prizes for the point s winner and for the best poker hand its a 5 out of 7 series . Stock is definatly cheaper ...... I've been running the same monster stock for 2 months now , just freshen it up when it starts feeling soft , 4 cell is really easy on motors .
Sounds like Adam want some more of me , I'll have to strap in some Team Tim horsepower , and hope I can make run time!
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:23 AM   #5210
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I wouldn't say that mod is cheaper than stock. But with mod you don't need the best batteries, just good run time. With the 3300 this is easy. Plus a mod is more efficent than a stock due to the bearings. Usually I can go 5-6 runs before a rebuild in mod but only 4 runs with a stock.
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:43 AM   #5211
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Default hooked on 1/12th

I am hooked on 1/12th scale.

I recently purchased a SM rev.3 and had the opportunity to race it yesturday. This car is sweet.

Initially, after i had purchased the kit, i was given alot of grief and became the subject of many jokes.This was due to the fact that:

1. i purchased a car that no one had ever heard of
2. the kit lacked instructions
3. the kit appeared to be missing parts when compared to
ae rc12l3. (the only other kit known to be on the island)

However, i am pleased to say that i earned some respect. being new to electric, I put on a good showing and showed that a stock 1/12th scale could run with the modified touring cars.

I thoroughly enjoyed the day and am considering purchasing a modified motor. Unfortuntaely, there are only two 1/12th scales known to be on the island. consequently, I i'll be racing against the touring cars until such time as more persons become interested in 1/12th


Finally, thanks for those of you that offered me your advice through this forum.

I hope to see you at a track one day

skink

P.S. Stormperson (HIGGINS) please tell bruce that he should consider including the steering linkages and decent instructions.

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Old 11-24-2003, 07:46 AM   #5212
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do you have an indoor carpet track in Bermuda?
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:49 AM   #5213
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Default re indoor track

No. We race outside on ashphalt.

fortunately, we can race outside all year round.

skink
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:03 AM   #5214
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on asphalt you might want to use the 'new style' dynamic strut front-end for the Rev3. For tires, I recommend the TRC cyans in front and granites (or pinks) in rear

you may also want a high down-force body (Protoform Ascari as an example).

an alternative to Paragon traction compound outside is suntan lotion
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:10 AM   #5215
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Cool

Thanks for the info.

Yesturday I ran the standard tyres that come with the associated 12l3. I'm not sure of the brand. But both the front and the rear were greens.

I presently run the parma speed 8 body. I initially it was a bit squirly, so cheated a little and added a little wing. No body cared because i was the only 1/12th in the class.

however, i intend to take the wing off with the view to running the car as it should be set up.

wish me luck.

skink
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:14 AM   #5216
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Stick with that front end for now. The Strut front end is alot of work as I mentioned before.

The ascari has alot of grip, but it also has alot of steering, which can be kinda scary for asphalt. The Yokomo body which basically has a little front grip and alot of rear grip (which is important in 12th scale) should be the body to run.

I would also try to stick to a stock motor, mod 12th scale is very different than most other types of mod racing, since you have to be very easy with your throttle to A) not burn off your tires and B) make run time.

Try to run your rear as soft as possible, since at the 6 minute mark you might notice that you are losing rear traction then again, if you are racing with sedan's that shouldnt be an issue (only 5 minute races).

12th scales are defently faster, and espically if you only have to run 5 minutes you should be able to get more out of the car since you dont have to worry about the last minute or two (which is normally very important in regular 12th scale races).

BTW, when they make fun of you mention to them how many national titles (on the US mainland at least, lol) the Rev. 3 has won!

And I will pass your suggestion on to Bruce when I see him this weekend at Cleveland.
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:22 AM   #5217
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Cool

Thanks.

I'll be flying to england this week. Hopefully I can pick up an assortment of tyres and bodies. That way I can find which best suits my track.

What do you reccommend for batteries. It is my understanding that nicds have a higher discharge rate. there by giving the motor a little more punch when compared with nimh. is this correct or do i have it all wrong.


BTW, were is the best online source for 1/12 scale supplies, especially for bodies and tyres.

skink

Last edited by skink; 11-24-2003 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:29 AM   #5218
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Default 1/12th scale Arbor

Anyone know where I can find (without special ordering) a Hudy 1/12th Arbor??? Hudy would be my preference, but in all honesty, I just want one that spins TRUE!!! The Ofna 1/12th arbor does not spin true.
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:34 AM   #5219
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Quote:
Originally posted by Adam Hartzell
I wouldn't say that mod is cheaper than stock. But with mod you don't need the best batteries, just good run time. With the 3300 this is easy. Plus a mod is more efficent than a stock due to the bearings. Usually I can go 5-6 runs before a rebuild in mod but only 4 runs with a stock.

Thats kind of what I'm thinking.....batteriy voltage plays a bigger role in the who'e fast game with stock motors. Plus there's less opportunity for rule bending with mod motors
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:41 AM   #5220
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Quote:
Originally posted by SteveG
Thats kind of what I'm thinking.....batteriy voltage plays a bigger role in the who'e fast game with stock motors. Plus there's less opportunity for rule bending with mod motors
It's not very easy to cheat in 1/12 stock and not get caught. You can always tell if a persoin blows by ya on the stright. At our track even the slowest 1/12 drivers are just as fast on the stright.
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