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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-22-2003, 02:27 PM   #5176
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Quote:
Originally posted by THEBIGBULL
HELP

Boy am I in trouble, I bought Ruben Benitez's last years SM. Last night was the first outing for the car. It is awsome. I promised Ruben I would "TAKE GOOD CARE" of the car . Guess what , I got sent over the boards into a bench int the main. The shock came apart, (end pulled out), NO problem I have a rebuild kit. BUT both inner pieces of the damper tubes broke, (the male ones) where they screw into the ball cup. (Rubens Gunna kill me). We have our first round of the Western Canadian Indoor Carpet series next weekend. Where can I get these quick!!!! I have the only SM car here and there are no spares around yet. YAH I know I should have had some already. Probably a mail order place in the north west would the quickest. I went on SM'S web site this morning , but they list anything for fast service. "HELP"

Terry
Go to www.hobbyect.com ther offer over night shipping and usually have the parts in stock that you would need. You will have to do a little searching as thay don't have the best site but they carry all SM parts.
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Old 11-22-2003, 02:57 PM   #5177
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You probably broke the old Bolink made damper tubes, the new ones will not break, and they are so much better. So just say you upgraded the car, and leave out the part about breaking it.
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Old 11-22-2003, 05:50 PM   #5178
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Default unbreakable?

Hey Storm-
Sorry to have to tell you this but I've already broken two of the late model SM damper tubes since our carpet season started three weeks ago (one by being a putz and one by getting punted off the track). I'm starting to like the CRC tubes better (I've never bent one or broken the inner part)
O'D
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Old 11-22-2003, 06:15 PM   #5179
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THEBIGBULL ....... other than breaking the damper tubes what did you think? Try http://www.hobbyetc.com for those damper tubes. They offer next day shipping. Good luck.

Ruben
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Old 11-22-2003, 07:10 PM   #5180
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odpurple- you broke the all new (all black) ones? The CRC ones dont bend on the inside, they bend on the outside. What happens is that in a crash the outside compresses alot and hits the ballcup and then bends in.
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Old 11-22-2003, 07:39 PM   #5181
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The new SM all black tubes are much stronger. I prefer these over the aluminum tubes as they are lighter.
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Old 11-22-2003, 09:53 PM   #5182
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Default Re: 16 Gauge Silicone "Spaghetti" Wire

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jcrouse
Anymore ideas. I couldn't find it on the two links above. I can call tem but would rather just order online. ANy links to the product?

Thanks again,
John
[/QUOTE


www.ncphobbies.com

click on 1/24 slot cars

scroll down and in one of the right side categories

click on lead wire
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Old 11-22-2003, 10:07 PM   #5183
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Tower hobbies also sells 16GA wire
look here
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2769&P=7
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Old 11-22-2003, 10:09 PM   #5184
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Quote:
Originally posted by dway100
Tower hobbies also sells 16GA wire
look here
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2769&P=7
Unfortuately that is not 16ga wire. I learned the hard way, its 14ga wire. Tower made a typo.
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Old 11-22-2003, 11:26 PM   #5185
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Exclamation

Thanks for the help guys, I did find Hobby Etc, finally right on SMs web site. Must still have had traction compound in my eyes this morning. There on the way monday.

Ruben, Ive never driven anything like it. I just installed the servo and added the electronics. I don't know if its the old style front end or what. I had to dial out a whole bunch of steering and slow the servo down a lot. It sticks like $%it to a blanket. I had a chamelion 19T and ran mod. I started 1st in the B- 8 cars unfortunatelydid'nt finish. For some reason the car suits me. If it works as well this weekend I will have a bloody Knfe and a 3.1 for sale.

NEW RACER, John, I just picked some 16g silicone wire from my LHS. I don't know where they get it . Its from MAXX products Int'l Inc. Order #ACC816. Try Google search ,Great Hobbies . Or 1-800-839-3262Their main stores are in eastern Canada. If you don't get Great Hobbies Canada, Let me know and I will post there Web address.

Terry

Last edited by THEBIGBULL; 11-22-2003 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:59 AM   #5186
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I have a question, anyone know a hop-up for a 12L3 for the T-bar? I snapped 3 of them, 2 of them from smacks that weren't that bad, I was running the .075 thickness bars.
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Old 11-23-2003, 09:55 AM   #5187
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Quote:
Originally posted by birdy233
I have a question, anyone know a hop-up for a 12L3 for the T-bar? I snapped 3 of them, 2 of them from smacks that weren't that bad, I was running the .075 thickness bars.
I have broken my share of T-bars. They don't break spontaneously. There is always a reason for the breakage. Several small encounters with the boards will cause the T-bar to fatigue and then it is just a matter of time until it breaks. The best hop up is practice.

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Old 11-23-2003, 10:41 AM   #5188
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birdy233 ...... don't want to worry about breaking a T-bar again, need a hop up for that 12L3. Well how about a Speedmerchant Rev 3, No T-bar to break there. The oher thing you could try is one of the new Sylva Concepts spring steel T-plates. I've not tried one cause I don't own a t-bar car but I did use a Trinity spring steel t-plae in my oval car last year and somewhere on this thread somebody was talking about running one in their on-road 12th scale. As DPowell said though, you hit enough stuff eventually any t-bar will break.
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Old 11-23-2003, 11:00 AM   #5189
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Don't forget the HPI 12th scale is super solid with no t-bar and no linkage and plenty of space for batteries, this car is good for starters with problems of breaking cars into pieces.

anyway I run the asso 0.63 t-bar on aspault and never broke one for years already. concerntrate when you are on the road!
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Old 11-23-2003, 11:08 AM   #5190
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Thanks for the tips, the problem was it's not like I was banging off the boards, the first one came from one bang on the board, (it was a hard smack) the second and third was from battling in the corners with one rear end job from someone and the other from coming off a slow "S" turn and barley skimming the wall??
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