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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 11-21-2003, 07:49 AM   #5146
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barrys- I use two digital scales and a fixed block to set tweak it is very accurate and frustrating. I also use the coin trick it's easier and probably close enough. I do have problems getting the car to balance though, I've done it both ways and as long as front aend is right everything else will follow.
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Old 11-21-2003, 09:43 AM   #5147
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ANYone know what compound tires comes with the yokomo YRX12 SSG version?
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Old 11-21-2003, 10:33 AM   #5148
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its purple up front with thier special L rubber compound!
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:15 AM   #5149
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WTB CEFX 12 scale body .can we buy them on line?
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:18 AM   #5150
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OVA, you can only get the CEFX body through hobby stores.
You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:31 AM   #5151
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Ok you guy,,,Here we go again..MY LHS don't carry their product,so I needs to know WHICH of the LHS on line have them
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:45 AM   #5152
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Smile The Pennies work......BUT

I found the pennies work except for slop in the front end, like king pins being shimmed exactly the same, or those little balls wearing in the lower arms. I would think "am I testing the tweak or the front end?". I went to a home made tweak station, it seems to make more sense to me. It also shows that I was off with the pennies I feel due to suspension slop even if it is a little.

In MY opinion, Pennies will get real close, but Tweak Station gets you there. Scales are a tweak station too, just a different form. I think 2 scales in the front would work fine.
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:54 AM   #5153
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Originally posted by nashrcracer
remember if your LHS can't get parts for it and carries CRC you have to go mail order if you need parts you don't if they have CRC stuff. that's mostly why so many people stick with AE, you can get parts for them at most LHS. I would rather be racing on the track then sitting on the side calling someone 50 time and still not getting an answer.
i think you read KANSASRACER wrong? from what i read he has a CK and wants a SM. his hobbyshop don't carry the SM and he has called SM 50+ times and hasn't gotten thru. i know on this one after having tried to call SM, Bruce is tough to get a hold of.

as for parts: other than the graphite pieces, dampners, side link ball studs (CK).....all the rest are AE or DuBro parts
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:56 AM   #5154
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Maybe I am just not a sensitive enough driver-but when my cars perfect with the quarter trick-its runs great on the track. if the quarters fall tru and cars still pulling-I know for a fact somethng is bent or not straight in car (i.e side links, rear axle , chunked or peeling tire, etc.). or may radio settings are way off (EPA) due to adjusting toe links (for more or less Toe-in, etc.).

I cannot see how you can go wrong with tweak station or quarters or pennies-as long as you stick with one method and be consistent in itsapplication.
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Old 11-21-2003, 11:59 AM   #5155
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Originally posted by Fike
Fast -
Are you running this weekend? the wife and I have come to an arangement that I can race everyother weekend and on wed. if I choose.

1/12 and sedan (mod or stock)?

will be there tomorrow for 12th mod and stk TC.
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Old 11-21-2003, 12:41 PM   #5156
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i use the quarter trick my self been doing it for about 10 years i have used the tweak board but its not worth it coins work fine just make sure all your bearings are in good shape and if your tweaks feels out even though the car tweak correctly your right check your radio adjustments and see if something is bent.
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Old 11-21-2003, 12:46 PM   #5157
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Quater, nickel, dime, penny?????

I don't get it, could someone please explain these tricks?
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Old 11-21-2003, 12:54 PM   #5158
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Can someone explain the pennies method to tweak the car ???
I have only heard of tweaking the car with a x-acto knife...
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Old 11-21-2003, 01:02 PM   #5159
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Find the exact center of the front end of the car with a ruler or caliper

Load the car in as raced condition; batteries, transponder, etc.

Place a penny on the top of each front wheel.

Very slowly lift the front end of the car off a flat, level surface

Adjust the tweek screws until both pennies fall off at the same time.

Your tweek is now set.
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Old 11-21-2003, 01:06 PM   #5160
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Originally posted by OVA
WTB CEFX 12 scale body .can we buy them on line?
OVA, we might have them later on today or Monday (waiting for UPS). I just hope I ordered enough but I don't think I did.
There is great need for a sarcasm font.

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