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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-20-2003, 08:31 PM   #5131
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Quote:
Originally posted by Roger
I've called Doug and he hasn't called back cause the car he is selling me has a disasemmbled rear end. I'll call him tonight and findout what's happening. WOW !! Three heats of 1/12 scale. I guess eveybody is getting ready for teh regionals. Gotta get out there asap.
I'm putting my Rugrat together tonight Kevin has been winning way too much
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Old 11-20-2003, 08:57 PM   #5132
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Rugrat owners- are you guys using the screws in the Tbar for side to side tension or the springs on the damper tubes? Or does it really matter which one you use? and another thing, why didn't IRS put some holes in the chassis to mount your servo? seems kinda getto that I have to break out the drill and dremel
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Old 11-20-2003, 09:12 PM   #5133
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kraig
Hey gang, I just put up on the website the 1/12th Silva Concepts threaded micro shocks. The oval guys just love these things and they will work on 1/12th scale cars also.

I also have their 1/12th medium spring steel t-bars as well. These will work for both 1/12th on-road and 1/12th oval cars. They are right on the front page.

We will also be carrying CEFX 1/12th bodies. Josh was kind enough to send some our way. I will be putting them up on the site as well under car bodies.

1/12th Jaco and TRC foams are back in stock too. Had to get this in before Shane changes the rules on me. (Right Shane.)
Kraig,
Got the shocks in colors or just the hard anodized version?

D.P.
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Old 11-20-2003, 09:36 PM   #5134
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I just have the hard anodized ones right now.
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:50 PM   #5135
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Hey Matt.I noticed in your sig your running redline motors now.Those things are so fast you need batteries now. Ej was too fast in mod now.
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:52 PM   #5136
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
Rugrat owners- are you guys using the screws in the Tbar for side to side tension or the springs on the damper tubes? Or does it really matter which one you use? and another thing, why didn't IRS put some holes in the chassis to mount your servo? seems kinda getto that I have to break out the drill and dremel
Matt, I think I know why they are doing that nowadays- many of the mini servos are different lengths, plus some people want to mount them on different sides of the car, and then you have the newest craze of mounting them flat on the chassis with the servo saver pointing straight up...!!!
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:25 PM   #5137
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Bigdog- How are things going? I haven't talked to you in almost a year.
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Old 11-21-2003, 04:36 AM   #5138
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I have a RC12LS and mounted the rear axle of the CarpetKnife on it in order to use 3-hole Rims.

I have tried to center the axle as good as I can but the car pulls to one side when I apply the throttle. When I get off the throttle the car runs straight.
Could it be that the axle is not perfectly centered or can I solve this problem by re-teaking the car ? I have had the car on the tweakboard and everything seems to be O.K.

I also wondering if this could be a problem with the diff or toe...

Thanx fo your tips in advance,
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Old 11-21-2003, 05:13 AM   #5139
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If you have used a set of calipers to check it then you should be fine, even if its off by a shim or two it shouldnt be that noticable. I would say its probably a bad t-bar or the car is out of tweak, or you adjusted your end points on the track to adjust for tweak and that might be messed up.

Are you running a dynamic strurt front end? If so thats good for a boatload of problems.
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Old 11-21-2003, 06:24 AM   #5140
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Default rear axle

be very careful how you mounted the left side hub on the rear axle. You want it so that the longer side goes into the wheel, thus causing less total length on the axle. If you mount it the other way, this could cause your challenge.
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Old 11-21-2003, 07:05 AM   #5141
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STLNLST- wassup bro!!! I didn't know you run 12 scale out there? I see where Matt is building a new car- if I remember correct he's pretty darn fast in 12 scale? Hey you guys need to go up and put a whoopin on ol' Ruben Benitez sometime soon. He's always talkin about how him and Scotty and the boys can roll 'dem ho's up down at Speedworld.... LMAO :O

... which reminds me, I gotta paint that ho a body....

Speaking of tweak- I hear most of the fast guys like Dunnigan use a tweak station to set tweak on their 12 cars- is that correct? I use an MIP T.S. and it works pretty good, but doesn't seem that consistent.... any thoughts? Could I be cranking down on the tweak screws too hard?
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Old 11-21-2003, 07:24 AM   #5142
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BDR - you need some form of measuring the balance of the car. I use the MIP tweak board and many others use the coin method. The MIP tweak board is the best I have come across. I had a home-built unit that is my second best. The NIFTECH unit has issues with the teflon bushings.

Matt Howard - I have been playing with a RugRat since I am one of IRS' team drivers. I have run the car with the tweak screw on a .075 t-plate, used the springs on the damper tubes and have used the Silva SS t-plate tweaked with the plastic device that comes with the car. Either way can yield good results. I liked the white spring with medium Losi fluid in the damper. I liked the Silva SS t-plate a lot. I did not put a screw in the center mounting to the lower pod plate with either t-plate. That makes a big difference. Make sure you set your car up for maximum forward bite. That will get you the best lap time. Most of this stuff is track dependant, so there is not steadfast rule of thumb here.

PS - I ran this stuff with modified motors. My performance level was just 2 laps off Josh Cyrul and 1 lap off Terry Rott at the region 5 champs. Not trying to brag, just establish credibility.
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:10 AM   #5143
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Davidl- no need to establish credibility, I remember you from when I was stationed in N.J. I have the car setup now with the .075 T-bar with the middle screw removed and I'm going to start with the screws in the tbar and see how that goes. I asked this on the "ask Josh" thread but maybe you can help, what difference is it going to make if I mount my servo flat or have it mounted with the angle mounts? Also, what mouting position is most used with the battery mounts, I have mine in the middle right now just to be safe before I run the car.
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:35 AM   #5144
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Default 1/12th tweak

because I don't trust myself to tweak with the pennies accurately, I have been trying to use the IRS set of 4 digital scales to tweak my 1/12th. However, that drives me crazy adding across the diagonal.

am I still better off than using the pennies by using just a pair of digital scales in front with the rear wheels on a fixed surface?
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Old 11-21-2003, 08:48 AM   #5145
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davidl, what does taking out the center screw do? I have been running the Trinity car and switched to the Rug Rat a couple weeks ago. Also I have a .030" washer under the front of the "T" bar, is that bad for this car?
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