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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-20-2003, 08:42 AM   #5101
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Sorry I shoulda been more specific. 70 or 80 in the center shock. With a stiff spring like the black one you need to go up in dampening as well. I'm currently running Niftech diff lube in my tubes. Thicker dampening really helped generate more corner speed in fast turns for my car.
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Old 11-20-2003, 08:56 AM   #5102
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There was a post about bodies a few pages back (I'm trying to catch up after being out)...there is nothing wrong with the Protoform Speed 8, even though people like to think differently. Mine works well. It might not have the downforce that the parma body has, but it doesn't have the aero drag, either. Remember, downforce=drag.

Almost forgot to post: If you're a rookie to racing and need a body to last through the many hard crashes it takes to learn, then go for the regular body. If you're not a newbie, then the light one is the way to go.
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Old 11-20-2003, 09:19 AM   #5103
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brolzy
There was a post about bodies a few pages back (I'm trying to catch up after being out)...there is nothing wrong with the Protoform Speed 8, even though people like to think differently. Mine works well. It might not have the downforce that the parma body has, but it doesn't have the aero drag, either. Remember, downforce=drag.

Almost forgot to post: If you're a rookie to racing and need a body to last through the many hard crashes it takes to learn, then go for the regular body. If you're not a newbie, then the light one is the way to go.
Actually you'd be surprised to learn that the Parma actually doesn't have a drag coefficient that's all that much higher than the Protoform. I'm not entirely sure who stated the myth that the Parma body has a ton of drag, but it's quite simply not true. You can make downforce without creating significant drag if you limit other extraneous drag producing details.

The fat and high profile cockpit on the proto Speed 8 causes as practically as much drag as the big rear wing on the Parma, but that high cockpit offers no performance enhancements. Hence the introduction of the Ascari.
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Old 11-20-2003, 09:36 AM   #5104
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Thumbs up Snowplow Push

Thanks guys,
So much info. so little time to take it all in.
The full set-up is;
Carpet knife 3.1 (got it used last winter) with some mods.
lowered pod plates ( crc?)
old skool ft. end
flat mounted steering servo
full width crc ft. bumper
the ft. end has .020 springs
center shock has 30wt. oil and a blue (ass.) spring
red tweak springs (Bob's) with 3 turns in them just for some tension
chassis hight is set at .100" with the rear pod hanging flat, a gm3 stock motor, quantum supersport esc, novak xxl recever, hitech 225 servo, parma speed 8 body, gp3300 batterys (4 cell).
The track is about 36' by 70' with a long strait with a sweeper at the end of old carpet(?) with a short tight infield section. It usually is "slimmy" the 1st qual. not bad in the 2nd, and a "bluegroove" in the mains (T Cs traction roll). In the 1st I literally have to come to a near stop to make the sweeper, in the 2nd, the car isn't bad there but the infield is hell (real darty) by the main it's point and shoot.
I started last year on blues & greens but switched to purples & grays, this year is been a tough go. I want to race not hack my way at the races
Thanks in advance
Dan
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:32 AM   #5105
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are you 100% that nothing is rubbing (i mean binding in the car or rubbing on the track) ? Since I would be willing to go out on a limb and say its possible that your front bumper could be rubbing on the carpet.

Also your center shock is rather light, and could cause a high speed push.

What are you saucing on your tires? and how much dual rate are you running? (also how much EPA?) since those are huge.

Also your body is properly mounted, its not too high off the track or anything?
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:42 AM   #5106
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Lumberjack-
I have a 3.1 bloody
here's what I run on my car, we race on fanfare carpet 43'x93'
mod 11x2 reedy kr w/ ti brush hood 100/23 (dont't really remember gearing, I'm at work don't cha know) prot P35, will be going back to the parma soon.

Front
tires - pruple, 1/8 sauce - front end - dynamic 0 degree blks - spaced wide (cut down extra block to move arms closer together) - 2 degress caster - 3.5 mm ride height - .020 springs

Rear
tires gray, full sauce - red side springs, just touching balls - 35 wt. trinity with crc copper, pod set level w/ chassis r.t.r. - 1mm pod droop - irs large pin diff (12 ball)

Misc.
receiver batt, mounted flat behind servo, quantum comp, jr3550z, stock m8 rcvr. let the sauce set for 20 min. jack the gripper wipe off 5 min. before race

this works for me.

Eric
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:49 AM   #5107
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LUMBERJAK, ...red tweak springs (Bob's) with 3 turns in them just for some tension. i would set them just like Fike said. when i first drove my CRC CK 1 year ago that was a mistake i made (didn't fully read instructions and so have others at our track. causes the car to change direction too fast and too twitchy to drive consistent. your term is "real darty"?

our track has got a killer groove that causes traction rolling, i ended up going to .022 springs on the front with all the play shimmed out

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 11-20-2003 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:05 AM   #5108
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcsquish
Iwas wondering if someone might be able to give me some help. I have picked up a Rug Rat and I was wondering what might be a good set-up for it in stock. I haven't run a Asso base car in a very long time. Also I was wondering about the side damper tube springs. Thanks for any help.
i ran this car for about three months (still have it) but am trying other cars and set-ups.

RUG RAT set-up (High Traction Fanfare Ozite Carpet)

tires Pu fronts 1/4 sauce inside, Gry rears full sauce

DYN Front 10deg blks, spaced 4 degree caster, .022 front springs all play shimmed out but no preload on the springs.

45w oil and copper spring on shock

.075 t-bar (sometimes used tweak screws with no springs on the dampners)

use Losi M-hydra fluid in dampers with red springs

start with cells centered in slots, for more steering move cells forward in small increments, and move cells back for more rear bite
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:10 AM   #5109
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Default Spur size

Hi guys,

Just like to know that most of you start off with 100T or more when tires are new (trued to approx 1.88"). As the tires wear, do you go down in spur size too (while keeping same roll-out of course)? Thanks.

Another question. I run a CK 3.1, and I have installed the speedmerchant's side link (since my original side link aluminum ball snapped during a crash). My question is, should I keep the side springs at their orginal location and rest on the steel balls, or should I move them outboard and rest on the side link balls like the speedmerchant?

Ron
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:23 AM   #5110
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if you remove your battery brace, you can mount the longer SM side links in the battery brace holes and CRC has left the holes so you can move your tweak springs on top of the rear link like the SM cars. CRC sells the longer side links also for those who wish to do this. they are DU-DRO parts found in the aircraft section of a hobby shop

gears...i start with a DU-MOR 98, them Kimdrough 96, then Yok 94 as my tires wear
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:23 AM   #5111
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Default Thanks, I was considering that.

Quote:
Originally posted by Brolzy
Almost forgot to post: If you're a rookie to racing and need a body to last through the many hard crashes it takes to learn, then go for the regular body. If you're not a newbie, then the light one is the way to go.
Yeah, I thought about that too. I'm planning on getting two bodies, one regular and one lightweight.
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:49 AM   #5112
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I run a 100t. New tires, old tires I don't know if it matters, personally I haven't noticed or played around with different spurs to try and find out.
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Old 11-20-2003, 11:51 AM   #5113
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Fast -
Are you running this weekend? the wife and I have come to an arangement that I can race everyother weekend and on wed. if I choose.

1/12 and sedan (mod or stock)?

E
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Old 11-20-2003, 12:22 PM   #5114
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I run 100 with mod and 96 with stock. This keeps the motor in about the same place for weight balance between the cars. The 96 allows you to run a little higher gear on it then the 100 also. Don't think I have a 94 but I got a 88 just incase. Also the thought is with the 96 you have lower rotating mass so you accelerate just a little more faster. it's back to a mind game at that point.
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Old 11-20-2003, 12:51 PM   #5115
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I was using a 94 Tooth Spur, and was told that it would accelerate slower out of a corner. This helped get the correct top end with the pinions available for my car.

I am going to use the 100t this next week so I'll see what change it makes.

Anyone have any thoughts??
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