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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-07-2002, 07:51 PM   #496
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Johnnysocko...i know you run the Assoc. car, but you are so fast ,you dont count.........
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Old 02-07-2002, 07:54 PM   #497
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Petenis- There is a 6pack conversion for the 12L3 I think it's about $60. The Hobby Shop there should be able to get it for you. There is also another way to do it which is to use the top plate from Associateds' 12L3 Oval Car and then put the CRC Damper tubes on. I think that setup would cost you about $30 but I'm not sure. Has Jay started running 12th scale yet or is he still running his TC3? Is he pumped after making the "A" at the NOVAK race in stock?
Please tell Mitch I said Hi along with the rest of the gang and that I really, really, really look forward to running with them at the NORRCA NATs.
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Old 02-07-2002, 07:58 PM   #498
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Oh Petenis- I forgot to tell you that the best all around brush for longevity and power is the Integy ASQ or Reedy Quasar brush for mod's. They don't give quite the snap that the 4383's and Integy 6%'s do but they give more power than the 3%'s and 4380's and last longer than both types. So I would start with that brush and then as you need it go from there. Is Dave Kurshner still running? Tell him to break out a 1/12th scale and run with the big dogs up there. LOL
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Old 02-07-2002, 08:06 PM   #499
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Darnold
thanks for the reply on the servoZ3550.just keep on posting all good info on setups for the 12th coz im savin it.
you dont know how much help it is for me thanks for that.

-if for practice what motor and gearing for the 12l3 do you recommend?

-what setup/s toe in etc. all for carpet usually technical in nature,I mean the layout of the track?
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Old 02-07-2002, 11:44 PM   #500
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super38- If you run stock then that's a little foreign to me since I only run mod. My guess for a starting point based upon some of the nationally fast stock guys around here would be: MVP/Green Machine= 26/100; P2k/P2k2=27/100. This is using 1.85" rears on what I would classify as a small - medium track (small=50-65ft long by 30-45ft wide, medium= 65-85ft by 40-50ft).
For mod's (yeah) I would try these for starters: @ 1.90" rears (for every .05" down add one tooth to pinion or two on the spur and vise versa for adding .05")
12 Turns= 26/100
11 Turns= 25/100
10 Turns= 24/100
9 Turns= 23-24/100
8 Turns= 22/100 If you run hotter than this get Danny your batteries so that I can get them!
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Old 02-08-2002, 12:01 AM   #501
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Super38- missed the setups part.
Thick T-bar (.075") with a thin washer under each ball. Diff Lube or Losi Light Hydra Fluid under the damper disks after every run or two. Check tweak before each run. Be prepared to change the T-bar out once every 4-8 race days or whenever the car starts to feel lazy or constantly tweaked.
Check the rear axle width and make sure that it is equal from the Center Line (MIDDLE) OF THE CAR to the outside of each rear wheel. Use the two screws thru the T-bar as reference points for this and make a mark at the rear of the bottom motor pod plate (this becomes a excellent place to check your tweak also). Often they distances aren't the same and this will cause the car to pull to a side.
You want the car around 3 - 3.5mm and equal or slightly higher in the rear from front to back. Use .020 front springs and don't be afraid if you have to dope(sauce) a lot of the front tires to get the steering you like/need. Use Trinity Red Stuff in the pivot balls of the front suspension to dampen and smooth out the front suspension action. Start out with -1.5deg of Camber and move to -2deg if the tires wear more on the inside than outside. Start out with 3- 3.5deg Caster, more will give better on power or high speed steering and less will help the car to turn into tight corners better (low speed steering). Caster is one of the top and probably most used tuning aids to get the handling balance the way you want it to be. Springs helps steering, steering feel and efficiency. The center shock is also a tuning point where stiffening it usually gives more steering to a point (and then it can wash out the steering) and softening it has the opposite effect. This tuning aid also affects how the car handles bumps.
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Old 02-08-2002, 12:08 AM   #502
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Super38- Good googlely moogly as my late dad used to say. I forgot about the toe-in/out. This is more of a tuning aid that a lot of the fast guys use. They often will run 1 deg of toe-out to help the car turn in better. They want the car to initiate (respond) quickly and take the set into the turn on their desired line and a little toe-out can help this. However it is probably best to start with 1 deg toe-in for better stability and if needed work your way out. So much of road racing especially 12th scale is in the build and setup PLUS the driving. Hope this helps.-Dave
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Old 02-09-2002, 03:12 PM   #503
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Johnny Sako- I remember that show from the 70's with the Giant Robot that had a Sphinx's head. BTW, I found out that Venture also races on Fiday nights as long as enough show up for 3 heats, if not then it's open practice (same thing happens with Sundays). Their big racing day/night is Saturday.
So, how is that 12th scale 12l3 doing or have you switched cars?
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Old 02-11-2002, 06:33 PM   #504
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Up>>>
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Old 02-11-2002, 08:09 PM   #505
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Darnold,


I appologize for taking so darn long to get back to you. As for Greg Amendola, I believe he is withdrawing for awhile to try and start a family or something... good luck to him! And Jari... from what I have heard his grandfather had either fallen ill or passed away and he went back to Sweden( I think that's where he's from). It sounds like you know a lot of the hitters from around here, do you come up often, or did you used to live here? Kurshner is captain sedan now. He ran a TC3 last Saturday but I think he switches between that and his X-Ray, both are on rails!!! Hopefully my brother( Petenis ) and I will scrape enough cashito together to run in the NORRCA Nats. It is difficult to support two cars and try to build a real car at the same time!!! Anyhoo, hope we run into ya ( not on purpose, of course! ) at the Nats.


Have a good one,
Dave S.
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Old 02-11-2002, 08:12 PM   #506
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Hey, you do remember who I am. Yup, the 12L is running good. It was fast enough to snag me free dinner the last time I went to Shreveport. I should be up there around the middle to end of March. I'm going to the Indy race too so maybe I'll see ya there. Do you run any taxi up there? Venture sounds great, I can't wait to get back to the midwest and run carpet, carpet, and more carpet!

Good to see someone who knows where my handle came from. 'Course it kind of dates you since you had to be old enough to remember it! I just spell it differently. I always got a kick out of the phone booth they would go into to get into headquarters.

Until later....
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Old 02-11-2002, 08:24 PM   #507
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Heah Johnny 40 is looking square in the face now. The Lord willing and the creek doesn't rise I should see you at Indy. In fact I would like to go up there in the next 2 wks on a practice day/night to get a feel for it although it looks very similar to Venture with Venture being a little wider and the lanes a little narrower. My new 02 Trinity car is fabulous and I have picked up some major time thus far but the final proof is in the eating as they say and we will have to see what happens at Indy. I was thinking of going up to the Grand Rapids club to race this weekend but I'm not sure now because they may not have any 12th mod going and I don't run stock 12th. I do have an HPI Pro2 that James Arnold gave me that just needs some TLC and a servo and I will probably be running that once a month in the Summer (my big thing during spring/summer is GOLF). Last summer Jucha and I ran a couple of weeks worth of mod 12th scale outdoors and it brought back such fond memories, I look forward to more of us doing the same this summer. Purple/Pinks last a long time on asphalt. Have you been running any mod in your 12th scale and if so how's it set up?
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Old 02-12-2002, 02:43 AM   #508
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OK pretty difficult question here. Which 1/12 to buy? i am racing on Ozite, currently looking at the new Trinity and the Bloody Knife and the Rev 3. Where do I get the new Trinity from also?????I cant seem to find it anywhere. Anywho lemme know which one to buy.
IKE

Last edited by FoamDonuts; 02-12-2002 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 02-12-2002, 01:48 PM   #509
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Dave S- Sorry to hear about Jari's Grandfather, I wonder if he plans on coming back here to live? Just talked to Greg yesterday and he says that there's a 40% chance that he will be back in Sept and that if he comes back it would be strictly local and not national in scope. Heah, I know a lot of guys because I have very close friends up there about 18min from the track. I come up about 2-3times a year plus I run at the Oktoberfast race. I also see John, Greg, Dave, and a few others typically at both Tracksides' fall bash and Novak race (although I don't race the Novak, I just go up to say hi). Jari and I along with some of the other guys typically get together and go to the warmup practice sessions in Grand Rapids for Cleveland. Those guys up there are all pretty good and I really like the conversations that Dave and I tend to have.
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Old 02-12-2002, 02:00 PM   #510
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Foam D- What class are you looking to race and what have you been looking at so far and why? I used to race for CRC and they make a great car. The Knife seems to be the car for stock along with the Speed Merchant Rev. 3 and the 6pk for mod (along with the Assoc.12L3). If you run or may run both classes then I would say the T-Bar cars are probably the better between the two types (mono ball vs. T-bar). Personally I think the new 02 Trinity car is the best right now although I have heard some good things about the new Corrally. I got mine from Leisure Hours Hobbies in Joliet IL. for $189 before tax. Basically the new Trinity's stiffer rear pod section makes the car more stable and the stiffer chassis plate makes the car more consistent (especially under really high grip situations where the cars really experience the "G's"). I also like the extra ruggedness of the linkage front end (revolver front end) compared with other front ends. Finally, I think that the Trinity's revolver front end is the most adjustable on the market and as a result when conditions change beyound normal (such as really high bite, bumpy track, really low bite, lots of tight 180's, switchbacks, or sweepers) you can adjust it easier and more precisely to those conditions.
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