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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-18-2003, 08:15 AM   #5041
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Default Re: Cars for Indoor Carpet Racing Stock

Quote:
Originally posted by Grenade10
I quess I am try to decide to stay with the Corally, or change to something.

Thanks for the input.

If you feel that the chassis works well for you and your driving style, then keep it, some people (average racers) drive better with different chassis.

For example... when I raced a Losi XXXS I was actually faster and more consistant with a TC3.

Eric
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Old 11-18-2003, 08:30 AM   #5042
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Default DYNAMIC FRONT END QUESTION

Which block gives you more steering the 0 degree or the 10 degree blocks????

I am running the zero on my 12L3 and its stupid aggressive. I am also running 18 springs. I feel like the 20 springs will calm it down some...

thanks!
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Old 11-18-2003, 08:56 AM   #5043
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As far as which cars for different people... Any car can be set up to drive pretty similar to another, no car is ever THAT different. Its set up and maitnence that make people say "car X is awful and i drove better with car y". There are so many different variables besides the car people dont consider when making those judgements.

Yes, t-bar cars vs. links cars handle a little differently however, both can be set up to drive easy and fast.

srf- I have always been told to run the 10 degree blocks, i think it gives more steering in the middle of the corner. However, try it out for yourself. That front end in general has silly steering, and 18 front springs are defently not helping the situation.
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Old 11-18-2003, 09:43 AM   #5044
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I always run 20's or 22's depending on the track conditions. more or less steering needed.

Reactive front end i.e. 10 deg I believe gives you more steering middle to exit of the corner...

more caster might help you tone down the initial steering as well, but will also be better mid to exit of the corner.
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Old 11-18-2003, 09:45 AM   #5045
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
...Its set up and maitnence that make people say "car X is awful and i drove better with car y". There are so many different variables besides the car people dont consider when making those judgements...

exactly...

amen brother.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:05 AM   #5046
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grenade the corraly car was actually not stock it has the condom dampner taken off and replace with the dampner tubes and center shock like the associated shock.

i drive the quad 12 because i like the feeiling of a t-plate car i have never driven a corrally so i could never tell you the difference. asfar as good drivers there are some that no matter what car they drive their still good.

as far as my quad 12 its great on carpet and asphalt.

here is the picture again
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:20 AM   #5047
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnnywhopper
exactly...

amen brother.
I agree in about 90% of cases like this. But there are some individuals who have no issues with set-up or upkeep on their rides who can actually tell the differences between two cars. Weight distribution, wheelbase, center of gravity and polar moment can be counteracted by differences in set-up, but only so much. The key is to work with the cars long enough to learn their subtle nuances. Individuals that run a 12L, a Switchblade, a Corally, then a Knife then a Rev. 3, all in the same day for like two weeks in a row, never learn enough to make an educated decision. Spend TIME on each car you're considering, and get to know them before you just pitch them aside and choose the one that had the closest set-up on day one.
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Last edited by CypressMidWest; 11-18-2003 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:29 AM   #5048
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I am sure that if there was a Pepsi Challenge done with R/C cars people would be rather suprised! lol. (ie have people drive cars without knowing what car they are actually driving...)

But yes, if you have run two cars side by side for a good period of time, and know what you are doing then i completly agree. But if you bought a used tc3 a few years ago, ran it for some time, then bought a new xxx-s, then i would probably assume for most people that they would prefer the xxx-s just because they didnt realize how off their tc3 was, and a brand new tc3 (or a well maintained one) would probably be just as amazing to that person, but most of the time people dont understand that, lol.
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Old 11-18-2003, 10:51 AM   #5049
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tc-what? xxx-huh? you must be talkin about one o them big funny cars with too many cells...

Actually, what you said made me think of how many times I've read something like: "I raced my 12L3 for 3 seasons and then tried a new Fuzzwha 12 and boy what a difference!". Judging by how most guys maintain thier cars its no surprise that any new car would out-perform an old one.
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Old 11-18-2003, 11:54 AM   #5050
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Default Re: Re: Cars for Indoor Carpet Racing Stock

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Fike
[B]If you feel that the chassis works well for you and your driving style, then keep it, some people (average racers) drive better with different chassis.

I agree with driving what seems good. The Corally has always been a smooth car and easy to maintain and race. After getting back into racing, I now have 5 motors set up for practice, qualifying and the main. I do this prior to showing up to keep the stress and pace down. So Having FUN is the priority. What I would like is to go from being smooth and in the B to fast and in the A.

Anyone have ideas on how to set up the Corally??

Thanks
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:03 PM   #5051
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You guys kill me... you don't know me from Adam nor do I know you, but to imply that just because I bought a new car that was diff. from the old one made think that it was faster or I was faster with it... whatever...

I take top notch care of all of my cars, I could have a car for two years and it would still look and feel new. I don't change chassis like some people change their pants.

I'm not just blowing smoke or handing out opinions because I can. Some of you swear up and down that there is only one chassis to use (you know how you are) but that's not the case, all I was alluding to is that sometimes the average racer can be faster, more consistent with brad 'x' vs. 'y'.

If I took any of the posts out of context, then I apologize.

Eric
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:11 PM   #5052
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fike yes you are correct to say that some cars do seem to bring out the best in a driver i owned a 12l3 for about 5 years and just about every 12 l product ever made. before i got the quad 12 i raced a yokomo yrx12 for six monts made the A at the nationals and finished six some people would say why did you stop running the yoke because i needed something that would work better on carpet! it took me 3 months of trying everything to make that yoke work on the carpet it was ok but was lacking speed i went out on the limb and orderd a quad 12 never hearing about it
it took me 1 batt pack to dial in. every car has some noticable differences over other cars the average racer wouldnt pick up on some of the stuff but with the experiance i have i can say sometimes you have to try different cars to see which one works best for your style of driving.
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:27 PM   #5053
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fike
You guys kill me... you don't know me from Adam nor do I know you, but to imply that just because I bought a new car that was diff. from the old one made think that it was faster or I was faster with it... whatever...

I take top notch care of all of my cars, I could have a car for two years and it would still look and feel new. I don't change chassis like some people change their pants.

I'm not just blowing smoke or handing out opinions because I can. Some of you swear up and down that there is only one chassis to use (you know how you are) but that's not the case, all I was alluding to is that sometimes the average racer can be faster, more consistent with brad 'x' vs. 'y'.

If I took any of the posts out of context, then I apologize.

Eric
Fike, If what you're saying is true, then you're one of the 10% minority I spoke of. Now when you say you maintain your cars to what lengths do you go? A two season old car will have worn graphite that will flex differently than a brand new deck. Old T-bars, old Nylon front-end parts, etc all degrade over time. What we were alluding to are the driver's that take their old, worn out, but still "well-maintained" cars out, then drive their buddy's brand spanking new "Super X car" and can't believe the phenomenal difference!!!

New is definitely different than "Gently Used"
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:40 PM   #5054
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I have a corally G3, SP12M fiber , Graph, New trishock , a YRX , a CRC 3.1, 2 L3s , a Speed merchant , switchblade 6 cell a tamiya and a Kyosho.

They are almost the same because I built them the same way and use the same tyre combo always and run on same track.

besides that no comments
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:52 PM   #5055
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CMW-
Maintained... as when the arms or whatever starts to feel sloppy or require more shims than when new or if I notice that it's affecting the way the car feels to me, it gets replaced.

It is true, a new car will always feel better than a used car, but... like I said, unless your a Josh or Dave... certain chassis will feel better to you. IMO.
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