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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-17-2003, 12:37 PM   #5026
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here is my quad 12
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:07 PM   #5027
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I'm finally back! I was sick with pneumonia for the past week, spent some time in the hospital so it was tough to post! lol
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:26 PM   #5028
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
CRC-Tube Lube Can you please compare it to Losi Hydra fluid in terms of performance and viscosity?

Thanks,
Ray

Hey Ray,

The heavy tube lube is similar to losi reg. weight or slightly thinner. The light tube lube is thinner than losi light. It is most comparible to 100 wt. shock oil.

John
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:30 PM   #5029
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Brant - email me. john@teamcrc.com

we have awesome bearings at killer prices. The portion of the website for bearings will be updated soon, but for now email me for pricing.

John
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:31 PM   #5030
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnnywhopper
Hey Ray,

The heavy tube lube is similar to losi reg. weight or slightly thinner. The light tube lube is thinner than losi light. It is most comparible to 100 wt. shock oil.

John
Dear sir: Could you please tell me what size bottles it's available in, the color of each viscosity, it's thermal breakdown point, and temperature sensistivity overall? Also, is it Non-Toxic?





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Old 11-17-2003, 05:26 PM   #5031
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Thanks for the info on the servos. I like the KO, but I will probably get either the airtronics or futaba.

Thanks,

GoFaster
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Old 11-17-2003, 05:58 PM   #5032
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Can anybody please advise what tire arbor they are using to true their tires, we have been using the new CRC rim, and the hudy, eagle(integy) and corrally (AE style) do not work.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:08 PM   #5033
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The CRC rims should fit any standard 3 bolt (probably even 2) arbor. Sometimes a little forcing is nessessary. I know that the Corbra arbor works, as well as the hudy/ofna ones. However, more importantly what kind of truer do you have?
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:20 PM   #5034
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Default Cars for Indoor Carpet Racing Stock

I have been reading the site for the last week. I have picked up some good information. However, I have a couple of questions.

The only mention of a corally car is the final standing from the Florida Series. I have raced a corally car for the last 12 years. Purchased a new 12M and now have the dampner tube. Question - Can this car be a winner ???? Not listed in any mention of T-Plate Cars

I race in Denver, with a lot of Doug Powels cars, 12L3, Carpet Knife and SpeedMerchants. What are the strenths and weakness of these cars???

I quess I am try to decide to stay with the Corally, or change to something.

Thanks for the input.

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Old 11-17-2003, 09:47 PM   #5035
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Lightbulb Trinity Reflex12 ??

What about the new Trinity Reflex12?
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:58 PM   #5036
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
The CRC rims should fit any standard 3 bolt (probably even 2) arbor. Sometimes a little forcing is nessessary. I know that the Corbra arbor works, as well as the hudy/ofna ones. However, more importantly what kind of truer do you have?
I have a hudy manual, but that would not make a difference, as a lathe is essentially a wiper motor on a stand with a solid arm with which to cut, the arbor is the part that spins it true, all arbors we have tried will not make the rim sit true, please supply a part #, also similar request, what arbor fits TRC tires, and is there one arbor that does BOTH front and rear?
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Old 11-18-2003, 06:13 AM   #5037
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We run a lot of Corally's at the local club races here and they seem to do quite well. The top drivers seem to be the top drivers no matter what chassis they run (4-cell stock)

I think the reason you don't see more Corally is the questionable parts supply in North America...

The other kits use Associated parts as the major basis for their consumables (Axles, suspension, etc)...

If you look at Europe you'll probably see Corally dominating and the others poorly represented.

If you're thinking of making a change I'd hold back a little bit as new cars from CRC, CEFX and others I'm sure will be unveiled for the Indoor Champs in Cleveland.
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Old 11-18-2003, 06:52 AM   #5038
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Quote:
Originally posted by Besercoe
Can anybody please advise what tire arbor they are using to true their tires, we have been using the new CRC rim, and the hudy, eagle(integy) and corrally (AE style) do not work.
I just trued 10 sets of front and rear CRC tires last night with the Integy arbor. Worked great for me.
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Old 11-18-2003, 07:02 AM   #5039
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The only truer Ive ever used that cut true was a Cobra trackside and a maxmod. Ive used an OFNA arbor and it was terribly out of round.

Just an idea, you could try having an arbor made for you at a machine shop, it might cost a little more, but youd know it would work.
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Old 11-18-2003, 07:19 AM   #5040
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The ofna arbor is pretty bad after a little while. The Hudy one which clamps tight around the entire shaft instead of the set screw like the ofna is also a better design.

The Corally is a decent car. The parts support is not that great in the US. Also IMO its pretty out to lunch on carpet in comparison to the rest of the t-plate and links cars. I think it would be a little bit of a learning curve but, if you race on carpet you will most likely go faster.
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