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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-16-2003, 05:30 PM   #4996
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Question for the 1/12 guys. The local hobby shop went all out and bought a new facilty (52,000 sq ft!!) and now we will have new indoor tracks, off road and carpet on road. I just bought a 1/12 12L3 and was wondering any set-up tips and also what gearing to get a start with (48 pitch) and what is a good motor to run, I think we will be running 6 cell stock. The track is 100 x 60. Thanks for any help!!
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Old 11-16-2003, 05:38 PM   #4997
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Hey Birdy...

You must be referring to Mikes Hobbyshop. Looks to be a great facility. I will be down in DEC..hope its open.

As far as your questions. From what I have read on here so far. I am new to 12th as well. Alot of folks use the GM3 and P2k. I have seen people run 25/100 for a gear ratio as well. I dont run 6 cell stock. I run 4 cell stock and mod. I run the Speedmerchant Rev3 so I cant help you much on setup... Let us know when they get the carpet down. I see its there already!!!!
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Old 11-16-2003, 05:52 PM   #4998
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Thanks for the reply! Yep, I'm talking about Mike's. What a huge place, pictures don't do that place justice!!! Mike is going to have 250 pit spaces, a racers lounge with TV's, monitors at each of the pit tables with race results and current races, ton's of stuff!! We are going to race starting this weekend and the shop will open first of January, with a grand opening in January sometime with hopefully a lot of sponsors and maybe a big race with some "top" drivers??? On the gearing, I'm running 48 pitch gears, what would be a good combo for that?
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Old 11-16-2003, 06:34 PM   #4999
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Will the onroad be open for racing this weekend? If so I will definatley be up there the first part of December. Definatey need to let me know it went. Would appeciate the general info as well once they figure it out... (hours of operation/race fees)

As far as the gear ratio. I went to this website. they have the formulas for conversion.

http://www.robinsonracing.com/tips.html

I came up with a 20/75 for 48p which is for a larger track. Mikes should have a decent sized track in there. Just play with it and adjust it according to your needs. You really need to figure your rollout later on and use that for gearing as well. I am pretty new to this as well... maybe someone else will post to verify that I am doing this correctly...
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Old 11-16-2003, 06:37 PM   #5000
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LOL... on the top of the screen. Look to the right. They have gear ratio charts. I would suggest printing a few of them out. I know I am printing out the 64p as we speak. Looks like a 21/81 would be best....
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Old 11-16-2003, 06:43 PM   #5001
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If all goes well, we will be running both tracks this weekend. I think Mike may run both dirt and carpet for the first few Saturday's then the schedule (as of now!) will be Friday night ovals (carpet and dirt), Saturday off road, Sunday on road with the weekend races starting at 1:00 and Friday???. The fees may change but right now it's $12 if you have a personal transponder, $15 without, and I think additional classes are $10. The tracks are huge, 100 x 60 each!!
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Old 11-16-2003, 07:16 PM   #5002
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Can anyone tell me where I can find a good roll out chart to download.I saw the RR but I ned them for 94-98 spur and yrs ago when I raced I found a chart on the web which gave mm/dia/gear ratio/pin gear/and roll out and all but dont remember the site
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Old 11-16-2003, 07:39 PM   #5003
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Anyone know where i can get a full rc 12l3 manuel....? I cant find it on the website ...
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Old 11-16-2003, 08:16 PM   #5004
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http://www.wildhobbies.com/manuals/m...t_1_Manual.pdf

http://www.wildhobbies.com/manuals/m...t_2_Manual.pdf
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Old 11-16-2003, 08:18 PM   #5005
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12L3 Manual

theres 2 parts
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Old 11-16-2003, 09:02 PM   #5006
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Nash, I think the tweak screws are just set in there to be an example that you can use the car as a spring car or a T-bar car.
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Old 11-16-2003, 10:02 PM   #5007
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
Can anyone tell me where I can find a good roll out chart to download.I saw the RR but I ned them for 94-98 spur and yrs ago when I raced I found a chart on the web which gave mm/dia/gear ratio/pin gear/and roll out and all but dont remember the site
Serpentracer- go to www.rcracing.com they have a great rollout chart generator. Just hit print when you get the chart.

429- good point. It would be cool to be able to tune the car with tweak screws then take them out and tune it with springs to see which way it carries more corner speed.

It would seem to reason that with such a stiff T-plate you wouldn't need much spring on the shock- is that true? Do you lighten the spring as you increase the stiffness of the T-plate?
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Old 11-17-2003, 12:07 AM   #5008
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actually if you look at the picture of the tfource car Johnnywhopper posted coming out from CRC it shows a regular fiberglass tplate without the tweak springs. and that setup even has the center screw in the tpale to make it even stiffer. and that's a 11x2 mod motor I believe in it. (tplate for mod and links and springs for stock) I don't think you would want the graphite tplate and tweak screws. that would be a push. all pun intended as for spring on the shock it looks like a green springs which is soft. but for stock since you're not pitching the car in the corners you want it as stiff as possible so the graphite the tweak springs white or red depending on how tight the track is and a silver spring. remember your not pitching the car your not looking for traction because you're not going as fast. you adjust the finer points with preload and tension. the the softer the car the more rear bite you get. stiffen the center shock you get more steering. you want the car as stiff as possible without losing rear traction. but ALL tracks are slightly different. so finding something that lets you go 10 10th at your track might require a variation at another track and even when the track layout changes at your own local track.

hope that helps
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Old 11-17-2003, 05:02 AM   #5009
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing

Next question- I've been using my MIP tweak station to set the tweak- is that the preferred method or do the fast guys use the X-acto knife method?
Don't use a tweak station on a 1/12th scale, they're not sensitive enough. Maybe one with 2 digital scales is. Best way to set tweak:
-Use calipers to measure exact centerline on front of chassis, use a file to scrach a mark on the chassis
-Place the car on a flat surface. I use my MIP tweak station level to check for a flat surface.
-Set the car down, press lightly on the car to 'set it'
-Put a penny on each front tire, not on the exact top of the tire, but so it is sloping down a bit so that if one lifts first, it will drop
-Lift the front of the car with an xacto blade where you made the chassis mark. Lift the car SLOWLY
-Whichever penny drops first, tighten the opposite side, loosen the side the dropped (at least on a rev3). Things work in diagnals
-Repeat until they drop at the exact same time. Remember to set tweak after EACH RUN.

That is the way the top drivers (and we have several a-main national 1/12th drivers at our track) do it.
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Old 11-17-2003, 07:26 AM   #5010
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Quote:
Originally posted by serpentracer1
Can anyone tell me where I can find a good roll out chart to download.I saw the RR but I ned them for 94-98 spur and yrs ago when I raced I found a chart on the web which gave mm/dia/gear ratio/pin gear/and roll out and all but dont remember the site
Here is the table that I use. It is in inches. Easy to redo in metric though. (My calipers are in inches)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 1-12 rollout.pdf (37.3 KB, 432 views)
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