R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-16-2003, 12:08 AM   #4981
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

this was last weekend at my local track... luckily it wasn't me!!!! poor 6pack
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bivinstplate.jpg (62.5 KB, 266 views)
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 04:59 AM   #4982
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 593
Default OUCH!

That endbell hanging by the wires adds a lot to the pic

DX6 You need to race Tanks.

David Root
David Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 05:33 AM   #4983
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ridin my Harley
Posts: 707
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Adam Hartzell
Default

racerdx6-- If you are going to get a reflex I would be aware that the pod plates are onthe thin side. If you want another Rev.3 I have one thats for sale.
Adam Hartzell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 08:12 AM   #4984
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 894
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Damn Nash, I look at my six pack and tell it don't worry that wont happen to you. That looks like he died at the end of a straight and just got clobbered in the rear. I seen somebody was selling a rev 3 in the for sale forum and I thought it was cheap. $150 with a whole bunch of goodies.
429racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 12:11 PM   #4985
Tech Elite
 
BigDogRacing's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,955
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BigDogRacing
Default

Got a chance to run 12th scale mod again last night Nash...it was a blast!! I just love 12th scale on carpet.

This Hyperdrive car is by far the best 12th scale car I've ever owned. I love it. I'm really looking forward to Barry making the new chassis. I know it has a stock A/E front end, but I can't figure out why it doesn't get tweaked near as bad as any others I've owned??

Hey here's a quick question for you hardcore 12th scale guys (and you too Nash): What can I expect when going from a .063" (stock) T-plate to the thicker .075" ? Will I need to soften the dampner syrup to get the same feel?

Next question- I've been using my MIP tweak station to set the tweak- is that the preferred method or do the fast guys use the X-acto knife method?

One more- I noticed that when I don't hit any or many pipes my rear diff has stayed smooth much longer. Does hitting the boards or pipes make the diff's life that much shorter or did I just get lucky and it hasn't gotten crunchy as quick this time?

Diff balls- (hehe, I said bawlz) rc4less has a pretty good deal on carbide diff balls. Do they last longer? Will the diff stay smooth longer with them or are they just another way to waste more money on r/c crap?
BigDogRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 12:27 PM   #4986
Regional Moderator
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 2,843
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

nash, couple of questions, since you told me that i should use the springs for stock, should i go for a thicker t plate so it doesnt break that easily? second, what kind of lub should i put inside the damping tubes? my friend who runs a bloody knife told me to use some thin diff oil, im using 80wt in there since i couldnt find any at the track. last, i was checking out the pics of your car and i noticed that its andodized red, and mine is silver, did you get it red or had it andodized?

thanks
disaster999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 12:32 PM   #4987
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Big Dog I think keith kincaid is still waiting for the new 12 chassis from barry from last year

for your questions.

low bite use the .063 high bite use the .075 I wouldn't use the 63 on carpet unless it was the only one you have. the 63 is mostly for pavement and real real loose tracks. it gives you a skidish feel to the car and to much traction.

the tweak station should be ok that's what I use to use back in the day, the xcto is just a lot cheaper. the trick is to tap the front middle of the chassis gently with the tip of the wrench to set the springs and the top pod plate right behind the shock attachment to make sure you get a accurate reading.

as for the diff yes everytime you hit the wall you kill the diff. it's still going and your not. for the most part it won't kill you to badly and I don't rebuild mine but once every two weeks on the local level. but at a big race I'll rebuild it probably every other round.

diff balls??? cheap is good but non carbide are even cheaper and you can just throw them out every few runs. that's what I do. I don't think it helps when diff rings cost more then the balls you replace every couple runs. save the rings get cheap balls
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 12:52 PM   #4988
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

d999
if you run the springs, the CRC car comes with a graphite tplate designed to go with the kit. but the thicker one should work for this instance. you wouldn't want to use the thin one ever on the springs since your not using the tweak screws. the reason is the thin one gives to much side to side motion for the springs to do there job.

as for lube trinity red stuff or losi hydra thick or or if it's a tight track 100 weight oil losi hydra medium or trinity white stuff is a good place to start. I think 429 said something about losi hyrda light also. it's a feel thing. and don't take what it feels like in the pits as to what it is really doing on the track. the subtle changes in the tube lube can make major changes on the track.

that's the BLOOD version of the 6pack. like I siad I killed my 6pack chassis on the outdoor track in atlanta and moved all my good stuff over to my L3 chassis untill I could rebuild my 6pack for cleveland. I think they do it in BLUE also but you got to special order it I think. It's just pretty, that's all. but you need to order it if you think it's going to make you faster!!! it's all in the mind.
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 01:02 PM   #4989
Regional Moderator
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 2,843
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

thanks nash, im not saying red makes my car faster, just curious where you got the red stuff. my car looks good with only the irs pod before the conversion, but now, too much silver make my car a bit plain. oh well, i think i should go for performance, not for looks
disaster999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 02:39 PM   #4990
Regional Moderator
 
disaster999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 2,843
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

i was just talking to my friend and he pointed something to me...if im using a stiff t plate, soemthing like graphite, it would be too stiff for the rear pod to pivot up and down, wouldnt that cause a problem here?

and im not sure what your talking about on the damping tubes, im running on a 80x40 track its track is medium tight, so i should use something like 100wt oil in the tubes?
disaster999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 03:08 PM   #4991
Tech Addict
 
sands's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Iowa
Posts: 620
Default

There seems to be some debate on how stiff the lube in the damper tubes should be. Some like light lube so the car will recover faster, some like heavy lube so it takes more time to tranfer mass to one side initially so it doesn't get as far before the car unloads.

Personally, I'm waiting until we get dual rate damper tubes! Hard to compress, easy to rebound LOL

One thing I haven't figures out yet is what some oval guys do. They run softer springs with stiffer lube or stiffer springs with softer lube. Generally the other way that on-road cars run with.

Bottom line, run what gives you a "loose" car while being easy to drive (not oversteering).
sands is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 03:40 PM   #4992
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ridin my Harley
Posts: 707
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Adam Hartzell
Default

I prefer stiffer due to the fact that by the second round every 1/12 and TC traction rolls. Many of the TC guys are running older lower downforce bodies to try and eliminate some of the grip.
Adam Hartzell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 03:47 PM   #4993
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

just so you can see what I mean by the graphite tplate
now who ever put it together screwed up and actually has the tplate screws in. but DON'T run them together. a thick tplate will work the stiffer the better for a high bite track. and as for the shock the stiffer tplate allows the shock to work less. I know for the link cars most run a super stiff springs on them. and I was hearing 70 to 90 weight oil in the shock. remember you only need the shock soft if the track is stupid rough.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1322-10b.jpg (102.3 KB, 198 views)
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 03:49 PM   #4994
Tech Elite
 
nashrcracer's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: LA - Lower Antioch
Posts: 4,849
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

second round my butt now with 4 roudns of practice at cleveland it's just going to be crazy how much traction the track is going to have.
__________________
RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
nashrcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2003, 05:09 PM   #4995
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ridin my Harley
Posts: 707
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Adam Hartzell
Default

nash-- You may just need the graphite t-plate with tweak screws to deal with all that grip.
Adam Hartzell is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (1 members and 3 guests)
corallyman
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:13 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0